600 whp clutches.
you can make 650WHP without exceeding 500wtq by much at all if anything with tuning. tuning with lower torque not only helps keep bearings healthy, but it protects the internals, and keeps the overall average load on every part on the car to a minimal which results in longer lifespan for everything.
you could try a comp clutch. they seem to be hit or miss though based on customer feedback. their pricing is extremely competitive though. the hit or miss part again could be due to improper installation, settings, etc.
you could try a comp clutch. they seem to be hit or miss though based on customer feedback. their pricing is extremely competitive though. the hit or miss part again could be due to improper installation, settings, etc.
Tsc isn't tuning big horsepower and low torque gonna make the car feel like its really lacking? I mean I don't need torque like a little turbo on a 2l but I don't want to have 600 whp and 400 torque. I do see what your saying about the lower torque being easier on the drivetrain tho.
I had a act stage 3 in my x then I swapped it for a stage 4 comp clutch. It felt really good but the torque rating was only 450. It was the old stage 4. I believe they are rated at more torque now. And now im using the act HD street clutch. I'd be happy with 500 torque also I might add im running map ef4 turbo so I don't have alot of low end torque anyway.
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: brick nj
synchros
I feel like people always regurgitate the same stuff. I'm not saying I don't believe it, but what evidence says that the engagement of a sprung 6 puck disc kills synchros?
On a DD I just don't get how it's logical to buy a clutch over $1K (being EXTREMELY generous on price) that will need to be rebuilt every year and will cost that much to rebuild.
I agree that a QM or Exedy is necessary at some point, but there's a large chance if the OP is making 600whp he's only making 500ft/lbs and an HD 6 Puck can handle that no problem. ER has guys running that clutch at that power level for 40k miles.
Not arguing, just trying to get some insight on why no one agrees. There's gotta be more than just here say.
On a DD I just don't get how it's logical to buy a clutch over $1K (being EXTREMELY generous on price) that will need to be rebuilt every year and will cost that much to rebuild.
I agree that a QM or Exedy is necessary at some point, but there's a large chance if the OP is making 600whp he's only making 500ft/lbs and an HD 6 Puck can handle that no problem. ER has guys running that clutch at that power level for 40k miles.
Not arguing, just trying to get some insight on why no one agrees. There's gotta be more than just here say.
I didn't say that the clutch itself will kill synchros... that makes no sense.. what I said is that if you try to shift gears at high rpm and it wont go into gear (lock out / clutch drag) you are still forcing the synchro to slow the gear down thus excess wear on the synchro or totally frying it if you don't have the mind not to really force it.
I hear the carbonetics single carbon can hold up but longevity idk about. I ran an exedy twin carbon for a long while. 20,000 miles. Abused as hell at the track and it was amazing unless it was below freezing outside. Then it slipped for a few miles. My qm 8leg is great so far. Clutch jutter is embarrassing at times but its managable on the street for sure. If i was gonna get a new clutch it would be twin carbon. Nothing has been as nice. Silent on engagement yet able to hold whatever i put it thru. But you have to be right handed and work out. Cause you left leg is gonna get jacked from the pedal pressure and it just doesnt look right by itself
there's way too many replies in this thread stating how much power certain clutches have held, without stating how the car was used.
If the OP needs a clutch that can handle regular launches, half the responses are irrelevant.
I also apologize, because the OP states I should not reply if I have a $2,000 clutch...
If the OP needs a clutch that can handle regular launches, half the responses are irrelevant.
I also apologize, because the OP states I should not reply if I have a $2,000 clutch...
I think it takes money to play especially 600hp I use to run around 650ish and all clutches sucked except 1 Exedy tripple was the only one that held the power with out a slip.
It cannot hold up to launching. One proper launch will kill it at any power level. I welded mine to the flywheel with just one launch on stock turbo power. It will hold up to DD, road racings, etc. well. Even at OP's power levels. Longevity is somewhere in the 30 to 40k miles range.
EvoM Guru
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From: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
if you plan on launching and/or need quick shifts and don't care about some noise, chatter, and rapid engagement, the qm 8-leg twin is great. my buddy's qm has held up to a bunch of launches and 10k miles of daily driving.
if not launching and don't need the ultimate in quick shifts, a single disk clutch will do fine. my never-launched stock clutch with 50k miles held 420 ft-lbs for six months. finally got my first slip in cold weather a few weeks ago. choosing the right single can be a daunting task. the comp hd with full face organic disk is getting good reviews. six puck will hold more tq at the expense of more chatter and more rapid engagement.
if not launching and don't need the ultimate in quick shifts, a single disk clutch will do fine. my never-launched stock clutch with 50k miles held 420 ft-lbs for six months. finally got my first slip in cold weather a few weeks ago. choosing the right single can be a daunting task. the comp hd with full face organic disk is getting good reviews. six puck will hold more tq at the expense of more chatter and more rapid engagement.
