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Clutch slippage and other stupid questions...

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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 01:21 PM
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Clutch slippage and other stupid questions...

Ok, to start off, the problem that I'm having is that on my Evo 9 (5 spd), the clutch started slipping last night. It's mostly noticeable in 3, 4, and 5th gear. It starts at around 2800 rpm and grabs again after about 1-2 seconds. As far as I know, the clutch and the drivetrain are completely stock. In fact, the car itself is completely stock except for the radio and tires. I was thinking about taking a look at all of the cylinders, lines, and fluid tomorrow or Tuesday just to make sure there's no leaking. Could the slippage be caused by something else OTHER than the clutch needing replaced? I almost want to bleed the thing but I'm not sure where the slave/master cylinder reservoir is. Can anybody shed a little light on my problem? The car just hit 87k miles. Any words of wisdom will be appreciated?
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 02:17 PM
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It slips in that range because that's when the engine makes the most torque. Your clutch is on it's way out be prepared to replace it soon.
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 02:53 PM
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How many miles are on the car/clutch? I haven't experienced any cylinder problems at all on these cars, unlike my previous dsm's I'd say yea your clutch, like he said above, that's when you're making the most torque.

EDIT derp missed the 87k mile part, yea I'd definitely say clutch. I used and had amazing luck with my Exedy stage 1 if you're planning on keeping it mostly stock for a while. It's inexpencive and takes some crazy abuse with ease.
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 03:01 PM
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I figured as much because that's when the turba'puffer kicks in and makes the boost. I'm coming to terms with replacing the clutch and I'm thinking of going with the Excedy Stage II clutch (through AMS Performance) when I get the money. Even though it's my daily driver and it's completely stock now, I'm planning on doing a few performance mods and only looking to make about 350 block lb-ft of torque. Anybody have any tips on where the reservoir is so I can bleed the cylinders? Also, anybody have a good idea on when I should expect on labor costs for replacing the clutch?
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by PatricksEvilEvo
How many miles are on the car/clutch? I haven't experienced any cylinder problems at all on these cars, unlike my previous dsm's I'd say yea your clutch, like he said above, that's when you're making the most torque.

EDIT derp missed the 87k mile part, yea I'd definitely say clutch. I used and had amazing luck with my Exedy stage 1 if you're planning on keeping it mostly stock for a while. It's inexpencive and takes some crazy abuse with ease.
Haha, it's ok. Selective seeing runs in my family. But even though everywhere I've read with the same problems says it's the clutch, I still want to run through most of the typical things that I can adjust/bleed/fiddle with before I spend the money on the clutch. Also, I need to adjust the clutch because I have the "abnormal but normal" click/stick into 1st, 2nd, and sometimes 3rd gears.

Also, I saw the Exedy stage I but just for a few more dollars I can get the stage II just in case later on down the road I want to go past the 350 lb-ft mark and not have to go back into the thing. Thanks for the advice, though!
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by schnozznozzle
Haha, it's ok. Selective seeing runs in my family. But even though everywhere I've read with the same problems says it's the clutch, I still want to run through most of the typical things that I can adjust/bleed/fiddle with before I spend the money on the clutch. Also, I need to adjust the clutch because I have the "abnormal but normal" click/stick into 1st, 2nd, and sometimes 3rd gears.

Also, I saw the Exedy stage I but just for a few more dollars I can get the stage II just in case later on down the road I want to go past the 350 lb-ft mark and not have to go back into the thing. Thanks for the advice, though!
Describe the "click/stick" to me. I have a Competition Clutch stage 2 and I'm making 323whp 315 ftlbs on a Mustang dyno.

A clutch install just labor will run you about $500-$600 then you have to get the flywheel resurfaced and pay for the tcase, trans, and acd fluid if you have it.
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 03:46 PM
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The exedy stage 2 is a puck clutch, probably not something you want on your street driven Evo. Look into the new Competition 3000lb single plate clutches, that's what I'm going with and I should be around 400wtq/400whp. Personally I'll never get a puck clutch. Try adjusting it, the adjuster is right on the back of the peddle but I'm still going to say the clutch is probably shot. You'd be able to tell if it needed an adjustment, there would be too much play in your peddle before engagement and disengagement.

The Exedy stage 1 held 360ft lbs for me no problem, about 60 or so launches and 3 years/35k miles of hard street use/launches and it still grabs and doesn't slip to this day.

Last edited by PatricksEvilEvo; Feb 17, 2013 at 03:50 PM.
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by hiboost2.0
Describe the "click/stick" to me. I have a Competition Clutch stage 2 and I'm making 323whp 315 ftlbs on a Mustang dyno.

A clutch install just labor will run you about $500-$600 then you have to get the flywheel resurfaced and pay for the tcase, trans, and acd fluid if you have it.
The "click/stick" I'm referring to is the rough, ratchet feel when I'm shifting into the lower gears, almost like it doesn't want to go into gear. Also, it sometimes doesn't want to go into 1st or reverse without a little bit of influence. In fact, I found this on another forum (sounds like these guys are from Sveeeeden) and describes EXACTLY how my shifts feel and what these guys did to fix it:

http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=123535

And I don't mind about the other things like the flywheel (as long as it has enough meat on the bones) and fluids.
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by PatricksEvilEvo
The exedy stage 2 is a puck clutch, probably not something you want on your street driven Evo. Look into the new Competition 3000lb single plate clutches, that's what I'm going with and I should be around 400wtq/400whp. Personally I'll never get a puck clutch. Try adjusting it, the adjuster is right on the back of the peddle but I'm still going to say the clutch is probably shot. You'd be able to tell if it needed an adjustment, there would be too much play in your peddle before engagement and disengagement.

The Exedy stage 1 held 360ft lbs for me no problem, about 60 or so launches and 3 years/35k miles of hard street use/launches and it still grabs and doesn't slip to this day.
Well, if all the difference is between the two (stage I and stage II) Exedy clutches is that one is a "puck" clutch, then you're exactly correct. I want this to be a daily driver car with a little bit of "oomf" and "wow" factor without breaking the bank (or my damn leg). So, now that that's clear, I'm 99% sure I'll go with the Exedy stage I only because, like you, I've heard great things about it for a mild performance clutch. And I do have some play in the clutch itself, it engages/disengages right around 1/3 of the way pushed in. I know it should be right around a 1/4 of depression.
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