Can anyone tell me how to solve my engine stalling problem? I installed a HKS BOV 2 weeks ago and noticed the idle going down to about 500 rpm. Not really a problem because I love the sound of the BOV, but I just installed a AEM short ram intake and now it stalls. I don't want to recirc . What can I do?

 

you need a S-AFC

 

s-afc won't fix it... i would suggest just dealing with it.....after about a month or so... the computer will "fix" it... it will take a while... but thats what i had to do it will eventually fix the fuel issue...however you waste alot of fuel using a bov, thats why i use the stocker

 

Really, the only right way to vent to the atomosphere is when you have some sort of fuel controller such as the S-afc II or the HKS Fuel controller (can't remember the exact name). Anyway, both these controllers have an idle stabalizer function built into them. Basically, you set the controller to decrease the fuel at certain rpms as the needle is going down. For example, the Evo usually idles around 900 rpms. I have my S-afc II set to decrease the fuel at 1200 and 1000 rpms. Now don't get confused. This isn't just leaning the car out with fuel settings for tuning. It is a totally separate function built into the controller to solve the problem of venting to the atmosphere on a Karman sensor car. If you're able to read Japanese, you'd actually see in the instructions of the HKS blowoff valve it recommends a fuel controller to control the idle. If you have a S-afc II I can give my deceleration setting to see if it helps you. I personally have a K&N drop in filter as well. I don't have any experience with the AEM filter. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

its the HKS S-AFR with EIDS (electronic idle stabilization) it doesn't work... i have one.

 

Record the whooosh sound and burn it on a CD. Then play it all the time while you drive.

 

Thanks Midwestmonster any everyone else for your input. Any suggestions on where to get a S-afc II? Is it easy to install? Would it work for sure? I just don't want to spend more money on something else and then having to solve another problem with another problem. It's so fraustrating sometimes.

Keith

 

SAFC's correction only works on hot-wire cars, not karman based.

The only way to properly have a BOV on a MAF metered car is to recirculate it back into the intake plumbing.

 

I used couple vta bovs... don't like it at all (except the sound )
now using the stock and of course much better idle and no stalling issues at all!

 

I thought the HKS AFR was the one that worked. I think it is the APEXI SAFC that didnt work. check out the technical article at [URL=http://www.boost-solutions.com/]

 

You should have gotton a GFB BOV. It costs about $300 but it is well worth it. You bought the HKS and you are going to buy a S-AFC also then the price together will be about the same and this is straight bolt-on and no problem with stalling at all and you still get the "swooosh" sound. You should have done more research

 

well, i didnt buy anything yet. Also, I like the pssst (ninja sword) sound more than the whoosh sound. I have the HKS rs intake and so the whoosh sound is there.

 

A recirc. type BOV is always best in a fairly stock Evo, esp. with a MAF. An inexpensive idea is to diconnect your battery for 10-15 mins. & then reconnect it. Your ECU is now reset & will start learning. If this fails, the CD burning idea is a really good one
Good luck.

 

i had same problem as well but ecu kinda corrected itself.... rpms still drop alot but does not stall

 

We use a Forge VTA made specifically for the EVO. We have had in on about 2 months and have never had an issue with stalling or idle drop. Forge did a great job with the design of this one.