Are you going by the cluster temp gauge when its over heating? is it only doing it on the track or while driving in general? any logged temps when over heating?

check this out for reference.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...r-heating.html

 

I run a Koyo, seems to be a great rad. The CBRD no doubt has a nice build quality, its also more expensive. I found for an off the shelf brand, Koyo was the best.

 

this is only during tracking on a road course. i was in 3rd gear WOTing a lot and noticed my cluster water temp raising and engine oil temp going upwards of 250f.
car drives great and acts normal on the street and while idling...

 

our standard units are not dual pass-

and Import Tuner tested our radiator against Koyo, Stock, mishi- and it out performed them- in 3 types of testing- it was not printed however because of the threat of the other companies pulling advertising dollars in the magazine-

I do have the testing data somewhere- ill try to dig it up-

Our radiators are produced in low volume- hence the higher cost-

Most people dont even need a radiator- we sell them to guys looking for more clearance or track work-

Run a slightly higher pressure cap- 50/50 mix (or distilled and water wetter)....

that is all you need in most cases-

cb

 

are you seeing coolant fill the overflow?

Most of the cases we have seen lately are from weak OEM caps-

jump on summit or jegs and order a higher pressure cap from Stant or griffin-

30$ and fixed 90% of the problems-

cb

 

Ummm, interesting...It's all about the $$....

 

I was running a CBRD half cut and thought it survived the car fire my blue car had. It appears it didn't. I'm running a Koyo now so when I get the car back I'm going to have someone test to make absolutely sure.

 

It does have a Garrett core and although it works great for keeping inlet temps down it may not allow as much air thru the radiator as a tube and fin style intercooler. The intercooler argument is on going with no solid track data yet. A few people believe that the bar and plate style doesn't allow as much air thru and when heat soaked stays that way.
If a new cap and different coolant doesn't help it may be worth a try to run less boost or the stock intercooler as a test.

 

is it worth running a new OEM cap? i seem to push coolant into the overflow after a track session, but have never had the temp needle move from dead center.

 

i wish i had a better experiece with my koyo that i bought.

quick summary: spent over $300 for it, lasted only 1.5 years, started leaking from one of the fins (no visible signs of damage), wasn't able to get some type of warranty/credit for another unit from koyo, bought my buddy's oem evo 9 radiator, no problems, runs great.

had i done it over again, i would of just paid extra and get a CBRD.

 

Daily drive my Evo with the Mishi unit ....went with it because my stockie took a dump(literally)...the package price with the hoses were great .... I've never had problems, even after 4 years and long hours of SCCA racing at Thunderbolt and driving to the track and back home (75 miles each way) .....btw: it's very good looking and has really great looking welds