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Making Your QM Clutch Street Friendly..

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Old May 7, 2013 | 03:30 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by 90blackawdtsi
It slows down the fluid that is leaving the Slave cylinder back into the master cylinder. This was something that Mitsu/Chrysler did on the 2g's to try to keep the drivetrain from coming apart.
Not exactly. the standard restrictor pill (clutch delay valve) does that job if desired.

Years ago I cut one of these 2G DSM line gizmos open to find out if there was any magic inside. All it amounts to is an empty chamber that has a line in and a line out. It doesn't slow the flow (especially back to the m/c) but it reduces the feel to the driver by adding a little cushioning. It does so by simply adding volume to the system. If it helps to make the QM clutch more drivable, then it is probably worth it.
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Old May 13, 2013 | 10:50 AM
  #32  
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FedEx just dropped this off for me:



I ordered it from http://www.partswebsite.com/mitsubishiparts/ and they got it to me in about a week.

Now to get this thing installed.
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Old May 14, 2013 | 05:18 AM
  #33  
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that's awesome man, let me know how it goes.. I drive my car so much more now
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Old May 17, 2013 | 02:10 PM
  #34  
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So I have it all installed but I am having trouble bleeding the clutch. I have no air in the line and have moved about a pint of fluid through with no air bubbles, but the pedal still falls right to the floor. I can pump the pedal and get a little pressure back, but it still won't "spring back" on its own.

Any ideas?
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Old May 17, 2013 | 02:19 PM
  #35  
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My guess is that you probably have the chamber positioned where some air cannot get out when you are bleeding the system. Try un-mounting the chamber and positioning it in such a way that air has to get out when you bleed the system, then bleed, then re-mount the chamber.
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Old May 17, 2013 | 02:26 PM
  #36  
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I was thinking of doing this on mine. Thanks for the post!

Tilton makes a flow control device for this reason however its not cheap...

Last edited by badev0; May 17, 2013 at 02:34 PM.
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Old May 20, 2013 | 07:28 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by uterus!
So I have it all installed but I am having trouble bleeding the clutch. I have no air in the line and have moved about a pint of fluid through with no air bubbles, but the pedal still falls right to the floor. I can pump the pedal and get a little pressure back, but it still won't "spring back" on its own.

Any ideas?
Somehow I missed all these posts, I just came back here to grab the part number for my friend who is doing it too, I had this very same problem

Two important things, keep and eye on the fluid level as when I bled mine it went down real fast for the extra volume and after pumping so many times, we just reverse bled it, put fluid in a bottle with a tube squeezed it through the bleeder and were done in no time

Last edited by XSilverJ; May 20, 2013 at 07:33 AM.
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Old May 20, 2013 | 07:32 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by badev0
I was thinking of doing this on mine. Thanks for the post!

Tilton makes a flow control device for this reason however its not cheap...
Interesting, I thought there would/should be something like that out there but yeah that thing is about 10x the price of a used accumulator and triple of a brand new one lol and hopefully one of those restricters would work right
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Old May 20, 2013 | 07:58 AM
  #39  
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Does this cause (as far as you can tell) any increase in clutch wear? My CC twin is a ***** in traffic.
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Old May 20, 2013 | 06:52 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Xplosiv
Does this cause (as far as you can tell) any increase in clutch wear? My CC twin is a ***** in traffic.
theoretically it should increase wear, making the clutch the consumable item rather than your drivetrain.
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Old May 21, 2013 | 01:31 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by ACTman
Not exactly. the standard restrictor pill (clutch delay valve) does that job if desired.

Years ago I cut one of these 2G DSM line gizmos open to find out if there was any magic inside. All it amounts to is an empty chamber that has a line in and a line out. It doesn't slow the flow (especially back to the m/c) but it reduces the feel to the driver by adding a little cushioning. It does so by simply adding volume to the system. If it helps to make the QM clutch more drivable, then it is probably worth it.
Hydraulic fluid is incompressible so that explanation doesn't make sense to me.

I see it as a pressure vessel that is designed to flex some. It likely works like a spring by SLIGHTLY expanding under pressure. There is likely a difference in the "stiffness" of this hydraulic spring between the two different models mentioned. This should effectively increase the pedal travel length from engagement to disengagement. A smaller bore master cylinder would also accomplish this effect. The added benefit though is this accumulator cylinder will have some dynamic effect that will damp out pressure spikes from fast pedal movements due to the added pressure experienced during high motion rates.

Good idea on this though. As mentioned, this DOES NOT perform the same function as the factory restrictor, however that Tilton piece does. The factory restrictor slows how fast fluid can bleed back out of the slave cylinder which will slow the engagement rate (without affecting disengagement rate as it works as a 1-way valve). The two combined with a smaller master cylinder and properly tuned to the clutch could probably help a TON on feel and how hard it is on parts.

Personally, I found the QM pretty manageable once I put a pedal stop in the car. I HATED that clutch without the pedal stop though as I had a hard time judging the engagement height without it.

Last edited by 03whitegsr; May 21, 2013 at 01:42 PM.
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Old May 21, 2013 | 02:54 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by 03whitegsr
Hydraulic fluid is incompressible so that explanation doesn't make sense to me.

I see it as a pressure vessel that is designed to flex some. It likely works like a spring by SLIGHTLY expanding under pressure. There is likely a difference in the "stiffness" of this hydraulic spring between the two different models mentioned. This should effectively increase the pedal travel length from engagement to disengagement. A smaller bore master cylinder would also accomplish this effect. The added benefit though is this accumulator cylinder will have some dynamic effect that will damp out pressure spikes from fast pedal movements due to the added pressure experienced during high motion rates.
You are probably right that it is the chamber flexing, not the fluid compressing. We have seen similar techniques used on many other vehicles. In most cases the pedal travel is unchanged and it does nothing more than prevent vibrations from transferring from the release bearing through to the clutch pedal.
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Old May 21, 2013 | 04:41 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 03whitegsr
The factory restrictor slows how fast fluid can bleed back out of the slave cylinder which will slow the engagement rate (without affecting disengagement rate as it works as a 1-way valve). The two combined with a smaller master cylinder and properly tuned to the clutch could probably help a TON on feel and how hard it is on parts.
Can you please explain this to me?
How does a simple restrictor act as a one way valve?
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Old May 22, 2013 | 08:12 AM
  #44  
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It is spring loaded. Fluid going one direction compresses the spring and fluid is able to go around the block off plate. Fluid going "backwards" seats the plate and now has to go through the orfice. Simple yet effective.

I guess I should state, I am talking about the 2G setup. I never pulled the line off the EVO slave cylinder as I simply tossed it when putting in the QM hydraulic throwout, maybe it's not set up the same way?

I'm not sure if the Tilton is spring loaded or not.

Last edited by 03whitegsr; May 22, 2013 at 08:14 AM.
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Old May 23, 2013 | 03:00 PM
  #45  
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Definitely going to try this on my QM. Thanks, man!
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