I've seen a very small amount of people build their own that can "safely" rev more than the usual 8500rpms. I've seen people use lightweight parts to achieve this, as well as crankshafts that have more counterweights to help with the amount of load that the bearings see. I know kiggly was working on some new cranks with K1 but I'm not sure if its out yet.

What parts should I look into to get this done? Alum. Rods, billet crank, etc?

Thank you,

Josh

 

The key to the bearings not getting the snot beat out of them on a 100mm motor is gonna be making the rotating assembly as light as possible. Pretty sure with a 100mm crank and aluminum rods you will have to get a little crazy clearancing the block. Aluminum rods are much beefier than billet steel rods, which are a tight fit already in a lot of cases.

 

Why do we need to rev so high? 8500 is enough and just get a taller ratio.

 

Yes I'm looking to see what exactly people are doing to get their rotating assy. light. What's most important to be the lightest? Crank or rods etc?

 

8500 enough for 6466/6766 turbo? Then why do people build 2.0/2.2 for the drag strip which this car will be seeing 60% street 40% track?

 

If it is a street car then by all means go with a 8500-9000 rpm stroker. If you really want to rev to 10-11k then it really is a drag car only and go 2.0 or 2.1. Having a taller ratio again will really help being in gear longer and staying in power longer but revving that high really puts a stain on everything, shifting can become a problem, for a full out drag car OK but for a mostly street car get a Buschur high revving 2.3 which can handle 9000 on occasion such as the drag strip and 8500 on the street.

 

The reason people build destroked or 2L power plants is so that you go through the traps in 4th instead of 5th. If its a street car you don't need to rev it out so much. The power band on strokers is just moved to the left with added torque. The power band on a stroker is better period. It just doesn't have the rev's to stay in 4th so you lose a bit of time in the 1/4.

That being said if you are going to be over 650whp all the time I would just suggest a 4.11 final drive. 10% taller gearing - I.e. you stay in 4th and get to have the better street manners of a stroker.

****oh and if you want to get the lightest rotating assembly possible it's going to be huge $$$$. $3000 Winberg 100mm crank, $1200 Carillo Pro H-beam rods, (insert any of the lighter piston options). So >$5k for rotating parts NOT including bearings, assembly, labor etc. Then you need a valvetrain that is going to stand up to the high rev's. Which means GSC beehives etc.

Best of Luck

 

Yeah now I'm sitting at 600whp on the stock block and I cross the 1/4 at around 8100rpms iirc.

As for buying the buschur short block, there would be no point in me asking what lightweight parts I need to build a shortblock that can handle some higher revs, since ill be going with one of these three turbos:

6466
6766
3794hta

How would the 2.3 act on the drag strip with my stock tranny? Would I be crossing the 1/4 mile at around the same rpm right? I have not seen anyone drive an EVO (2.0 or 2.3) shift into 5th at the drag strip, and I'm not interested in doing so either

 

You don't need to rev to the moon for those turbos. The transmission effects rpm per mph so no changes in transmission is same rpm...the problem comes when you hit enough power to make redline in 4th before the end of the quarter.

Go look at my dyno thread, a 6466 is going to have a similar curve to my 6266. You don't need high rev limits to make insane power...my ethanol tune is very conservative timing wise and I'm making 750whp at 35psi intentionally keeping torque at 550 (notice the plateau)

 

Interesting.

 

three things you need most fore high revving 2.3. better than factory crank. manley and others designed the oil holes better so rod gets better oil pressure at high rpm. light pistons 275-300grams. good rods, and race bearings with .001 extra oil clearance. and two sets main bearing so you can have oiling groove in bearing at top and bottom. and a kiggly pressue regulator. okay thats like 6 things.

shifting to 5th doesnt always hurt ET. depends on how car is setup. this car uses quicker gears 4.85 final drive. opposite of what most will recommend on here . IE 4.11

 

4.85 final drive and a sequential box looks like fun

 

94AWDcoupe: Awesome video!!! I'm getting very interested in this final gear set up. I'm going to have to contact my trans builder about this. My builder has a 4.928:1 final drive. This may be fun too. Decisions!!!

420a-t: I'm in the same boat as you. Actually headed out the door to pick up 2.4 block and crank for my spare engine. I'll have a 2.3 and a 2.4, one with the 100mm stock crank (DD) and one with a billet 100mm crank (race/shop car). Which crank however is a $$$$ question. It appears the Winberg is the winner at the lowest weight, but I haven't researched seriously, yet. With this higher 5th gear we may be able to get away with a Manley billet crank for 8500 rpms.

 

Lots of good ideas in here, thanks for all the info. So if I want to rev higher than 8200-8500 I need a billet crank, or a crank better than the oem one for oiling and that's lighter.

My goals for this car is a 9 second trap, mostly full weight with a 6466/6766 ( don't want to run if I don't have to)/ 3794hta, don't want to shift into 5th, and 10:1 compression because ill be running e85 all the time and better drivability off boost would be nice.