My guess is the input shaft bearing...i replaced my TOB and clutch and still get a wicked rattle especially when the A/C is on. Sounds like rocks in an aluminum can. Gotta be something with the transmission even though it drives fine.

 

I wish I would have taken a video of it prior to draining, and doing work. Its a weird noise... didn't do it at first after putting everything together.

I will feel like a true mcdumbass if its just gear noise or something of that nature and I tear everything down. Ah well rather be mcdumbass with known good things than broken down with a flywheel spinning through the bell housing.

 

I have to disagree with your conclusion on this one. Generally a bad bearing wouldn't change with the AC on or off, since all it is doing is spinning either way. Gear rattle on the other hand commonly does change. Noise from a bad transmission typically would get louder with load (driving). Obviously just speculation, since I am not there to hear it.

 

Agree. I am currently running an ACT and I get the same noise. It is gear rattle. Car drives fine, accelerates fine, just noisy when the clutch is not pushed in. If it was the trans you would for sure know.

 

What would cause this gear rattle? I remember when it first started and it just came out of nowhere. Would it be anything to really worry about?

 

Gear rattle can quickly become a complicated topic. I hope the attached tech bulletin answers your questions.

 

So Dirk is there anything that can be done to remedy the idle gear rattle? It doesn't rattle above 1000RPMS but it does rattle right at start up until it had been idling for around 3 minutes.

 

Weird. Usually gear rattle gets worse as the transmission has a chance to heat up and the oil loses a little viscosity.

To answer your question, probably not something you would be interested in. Weaker disc springs, Dual stage damper spring design, heavier flywheel, higher idle speed, milder cams, less compression, different transmission oil, etc. Many of the newer cars use dual mass flywheels to shut up the transmission. From a performance standpoint, not exactly desirable.

 

Im thinking its Throw Out Bearing as it only does it now when the idle gets really rough and below 1000 RPMS.

 

I don't think so. A TOB noise will change with load (thrust/pedal load), but won't change much with rpm or possibly even louder at higher rpms. To rule out the TOB for sure, put slight pressure on the clutch pedal while it is making the noise. If it stays about the same, it is not the TOB. If it gets much worse or better, then you can't rule it out. Now push the clutch pedal to the floor. If the noise goes away when the clutch disengages (pedal near/at the floor) then it is definitely not the TOB but transmission related (gear noise, etc).

 

Bringing this one back to life.

So... I'm experiencing the same issue as described by Altman with my Evo 7.

Description is in the video.

When I slowly press the pedal down to disengage the clutch the sound goes away.

When I release and the car idles freely, it makes the sound.

A friend of minds had his flywheel bolts back out and made a similar but not consistent sound. Whereas mine is consistent with the lop in in the idle due to the Kelford cams.

On the flip side...My car drives fine when his clutch felt weird.

What do you all think?

 

I'm have a tremendous amount of noise coming from my bell housing.
Not sure if this video link will work but holy cow!!


My evo is on jack stands currently. The wheels will not rotate in any direction even if I put it in gear. It stalls the engine. I can cycle through all of the gears with the shifter. Transmission is stock with a Comp Stage 4 sprung clutch, ACT Monolok, Stock Flywheel.

 

Take it apart...

 

Still trying to determine where to do that and how to haul it because it wont roll. Hoping it will roll when I remove the driveshaft.