FP Cast Race Manifold for the 4G63
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
From: Near a Beach one of these days
Had mine coated, ported, and new bolts. It's going to be a tight squeeze with both bolts.
They should have done the port job for free since there are a couple of the imperfections with the runners in the way of the two front bolts. I'm wondering how much room I have for a drill to make that cut within the runners for the bolt and tool to pass through.














They should have done the port job for free since there are a couple of the imperfections with the runners in the way of the two front bolts. I'm wondering how much room I have for a drill to make that cut within the runners for the bolt and tool to pass through.













Last edited by AutoXMRIX; Dec 26, 2013 at 06:48 PM.
That is horrible fitment. I think they need to send those manifolds out with bolts that will clear their design. Possibly a allen type bolt or e-torx. those are usually used in tighter space areas. How the hell are you suppose to torque it down correctly?
If everyone looks at FP's pics of the manifold in the OP, they went to town with a grinder on the front of the manifold so they could easily get to the 2 nuts. I don't know why they aren't doing this with the manifolds before they ship them out?!?
This ^^ Obviously they knew about the problem from the get go. Why are they shipping them with out correcting it??
I think a standard hex nut would of been better choice than the 12-pt ARP nut provided in the FP bolt kit. At least with a hex nut you can tighten/torque it with a open end wrench and crowsfoot.
Using a closed end wrench or socket on the ARP nut is a 'no go' without some grinding for tool clearance.
.
Using a closed end wrench or socket on the ARP nut is a 'no go' without some grinding for tool clearance.
.




