80whp are you high?

 

So who else is waiting in their manifold? :/

 

no. but you must be to not recognize a joke

 

Lol, I was beginning to get worried about people

 

Wow I'm sorry to see so many people have problems so I'll address each issue individually.

QC of the product - We sent 3 units off for NDT (Non destructive testing), 3 more units for metallurgy testing to make sure the material was correct, 3 more units for computer measuring to make sure the casting were correct, and then we test fit 3 units here in house. We found in all of the testing that everything was as correct as it could be and ok'd them for shipping. We did not just eye ball 3 or 4 and say "ok, ship em out". We did absolutely everything we could to make sure they were right, but nothing tells you more than real world testing where variables can change.

The grinding on the prototype unit - I've seen it brought up and yes we did have to grind on the prototype unit but the cast units that are shipping are based of a revised mold that includes the clearance we put in for the front bolts. So yes we did identify a problem and we revised the mold casting and offered a hardware kit that in our testing worked perfectly and we were able to install the manifolds without any issues. We did have to use a thin walled socket but that's about it.

The heat shield not fitting - This is news to us if you have a manifold the heat shield doesn't fit on please send us pictures of the heat shield and the manifold so we can see how it doesn't fit. We test fit 3 units here and our heat shield worked every time.

Porting - Not sure why people are surprised by this we gasket match the inlets and outlet to ensure that there is no over lap and maximize flow. The runners are plenty big and opening them up further would not increase power by any margin. As for people saying it's a 10 minute job, I wish, it takes anywhere from 1-1.5 hours for every manifold after all they're not made out of swiss cheese and take quite a bit of work to remove even a little material. Don't believe me go to town with your dremel and report back on how much you have done after 10 minutes.

At the end of the day we took ever step we could to make sure that the manifolds were ready to go. Now that we're back from the holidays we'll be investigating the issue thoroughly to figure out why some people are having issues. If you're unhappy with the manifold we'd be happy to take it as a return and give you a full refund.

-Michael

 

Thanks Michael! Well said from FP. Enough said!!!

 

This addressed all my concerns. Thanks Michael

 

I'd be happier if you could send me a tool to use for that tight spot on the two 12 point arp bolts. I'll need to be able to torque them down. I don't want to grind it since I had it coated.

 

Didn't a couple of people say that a 6-point bolt works fine using an open-end wrench?

 

Will those of us who ordered months ago be starting to receive ours? Thanks!

 

I finally got home from vacation and opened my FP box.

#7 of 20 early adopter manifolds.

The hardware I received included 6-point headed bolts.

 

Thin walled socket, no

Not sure if I'll notch the mani, modify my box wrench or what.

 

Thanks for the reply Michael. So the main question at this point is, for the manifolds that have yet to be shipped, will FP be grinding down the front of the manifold for easy access to the nuts?? That seems to be the main complaint from most of the people that have already received their manifold & from people waiting on their manifold. Having to take a grinder to the manifold doesn't bother me much, I would obviously rather not have to do it before installing it though, but is seems a lot of members don't have access to a grinder or the ability to do it. It is obvious in the pics in the first post of the thread that a grinder was taken to the front of the manifold & to be honest I feel that should have been done to every manifold before being shipped.....

 

If you can use that bolt without the spacers it looks like you may get better clearance for the socket. You may have to use either a 3/8" drive flex joint 12 point socket, or even a 1/4" drive flex might work better.

 

They are lock washers and I want to have them in there just in case.

Hopefully the local special tool place had a flare wrench that's 12 point