lazerusmfh

If you had a few grand to dump in your evo, what performance parts would you get?

Such as..

pump
Bov
Cams
engine management
exhaust
Intake
springs/shocks
Clutch

Perhaps any other rec. upgrades besides?

What im thinking thus far is..

Tial bov, hks 272 cams, emanage, walboro 255, tien springs, and the exedy twin plate. unsure on the other components.

Looking for basic upgrades, dont want to do turbo/injectors/fmic quite yet!

Also, whats the most you guys tend to push your big 16's to? (pressure wise)

Thanks!

Angel Of Mercy

Exhaust System 3" before all else...
Then...
EBC/MBC+BoostGauge, BOV, Clutch...
Followed by...
Hard pipe suction kit, ECU, Cams, Fuel Pump next
Then....
FMIC, Cone Filter and anything else your bank account can afford...
And last....
T78...

Boom... Supersonic EVO...

lazerusmfh

Just to clarify, these posts are mainly for my good buddy, im the one going to be doing the modifications, and trying to find the best components for him so he spends his money somewhat wisely.

OK, which exhaust do you think? the Baucher racing one is obviously nice simple and lightweight, but theres quite a few to choose from. Probably looking for something thats not going to be nuts loud, Cops like to give tickets unfortunately

EBC... Profec e01 and greddy emanage are already on the way now, also hks 272 cams, and K&N Air induction kit. IM thinking the exedy dual clutch would probably be a really good upgrade, but doesent that require the longer clutch cyl rod too? if so thats fine.. im just waiting on input before the call is made!

the air induction and e01 is backordered from the supplier though i'll probably have him get the walboro, clutch, and clutch rod on the way too.. just put it all in at once.

What FMIC would you go with? too many friggen choices..


As far as the T-78 comment.. nah, way too large. The most i would think is a GT-35R or for a more response oriented.. GT30R Drag cars are just not fun, and wasting an evo-8 solely to dragging is a waste! :P

a T-78 is too large for a supra even IMO. my good buddy just laid down 740 whp SAE with a T-66 at 25 psi...

i appreciate the comments!

outbost

Well "a couple of grand" is a little open, but here is what I'd do.

1. Alluminum flywheel/ SPEC clutch
2. Air filter
2. Alluminum Radiator/ silicone hose
3. BOV (Tial is the king, but has to be vented)
4. EMS with logging equiptment

Why? We all know the stock clutch is going to go, so you might as well replace it at your conveience, and because your going to have the tranny off, you might as well get a nice flywheel so you don't kick yourself in the *** later about pulling the tranny off again. Any air filter except the HK$ mushroom of death. K&N is good if you are going to be going to a MAP sensor (see EMS) and ditching the pos Karman Vortex Mitsu MAS.
Get the radiator, because your's will break eventually and probably in the middle of nowwhere when it does. It's a reliability mod, and you will need on later anyways. one nice set of silicone hoses won't leak or burst on you, plus they just look so fancy! The BOV is a no brainer. The stock Mitsu plastic valve is a joke, and so are TurboXS BOVs. The only two BOVs I'd ever suggest to anyone would be the HKS SSQV and the Tial. They are both push types and will never leak under pressure. Get the SSQV if you plan on keeping the MAS so you can recircluate it back into the intake as their is no way to do that with a Tial BOV. The Tial is the king of the BOVs. However, it doesn't make the nice squeeky toy F&F BOV sound, so if you are a ricer and want a BOV for the sound, this is not the one for you, get an RFL, let it leak and give you a jacked fuel trim, but at least it sounds cool right? Back to the Tial, it will handle any ammount of airflow you can throw at it. Finally their is the EMS. I'm suggesting as a very early mod because it will grow with any other mods and not have to be replaced, and will cost less than trying to buy piggybacks for everything along the way. Get it now and learn how to use and tune with it now while your engine isn't under alot of stress so that you don't make a mistake when you doo have all of the high power parts and blow your engine apart. An EMS (AEM) will allow you to monitor everything from a laptop including EGT and wideband O2, so you really don't need to go out and buy $800 in gauges. It will allow you to use a MAP sensor so that the more restrictive MAS can be removed. It also eliminate the need for a boost controler (if you get the one for it) You will see a very respectiable gain from your stock engine with this because you will be able to work out some of the buffer and run it a little more on the edge. It will allow you to more precicely tune for any future mods to get the most ammount of power from them and allow you to find any problems in the engines sensors without having to dig around under the hood with a multimeter.

You will not get as much power out these mods as with some other things, but this is the way to go. Get all of the supporting mods done first before you get the big Turbo Pipe dreams. I may be a noob on this forum but I've paid my dues with the 4G63 over the years. PM me if you have any questions.

lazerusmfh

that seems reasonable.

I think that for the mods, the greddy e-manage should do just fine, i dont think that he'll ever go with an EMS, considering the amount of headaches i've had with it over various platforms, it just never runs like stock, no matter how many hours you spend with it.. and then it can occasionally just drop your map...... Wont even go there, wasted too much time with the EMS. Just too many features that a street car will never use.

I didn't know the oem radiators had issues?

Do the endtanks cracked? something i'll have to search!

as far as the silicone hose thing, that will probably be something after an intercooler and pipe kit is installed, the bov, I was thinking a TIAL, but that rich condition during shifts can get annoying, anyone have experience with a open atmos tial on the evo? i've gotten away with it plenty on dsms (okay, earlier mitsubishis ), i would think that the evos ECU would cope a little better So far i think this is the mod list...

E-manage & Profec E01 (Already in shipment)

Shim the factory wastegate, eek some more boost out of that lil 16g.

Buscher racing turboback exhaust (?)

Exedy twin disk clutch (or other if better?)

Tien springs (Already in shipment)

walboro pump

Hks 272 cams (Already in shipment)

K&N Air induction kit (Already in shipment)

and possibly Buscher racing fmic and pipe kit if its still in the budget.


I would lean towards the exedy because of the clutch style, its a "No messing around" clutch, where you get that nice stock pedal feel, and you dont risk crankwalking the motor with a single disk type clutch, like i've seen with other setups on various platforms.

I have my own wideband, so the tuning bit is a no brainer.

What is the SPEC clutch?

as far as gauges are concerned, i think hes' going to end up with one of those carbon fiber triple pods, and do boost/oil/egt gauges.. (gotta have some bling factor )

I've messed with the 4g's quite a bit myself, while i dont like them near as much as i do some other motors, they seem to do pretty well with lots of horsepower thrown at them (1g motors anyway)

trannies.. are another story

I appreciate your help, perhaps this thread will help others that are deciding their upgrade paths as well.

outbost

SPEC is an English brand that has been making single disc clutches for Silvias, Skylines, and other high power cars. I put one on an SR20 swap I did about three months ago and the Quality of it is outstanding. There is an EVO in my area that has one as well and has had no problems. If you owned a DSM before you may or may not have had the radiator issues, but almost everyone I know with a DSM has had their end tanks crack or turn into mush. It's more common in cars with upgraded turbos who no longer have the heat sheilds. IMO basic reliability mods should be done before you start pouring your money in the big bucks. I hate seeing someone crack a fully built engine and warp a nicely ported head because they still used a stock plastic end tank radiator and if failed.

I've never even seen an EVO with a Tial BOV period. Not to many people have them because they vent. From what I have seen with EVOs venting, it's like a DSM, your car either likes it or doesn't, it's hit or miss, but venting is never a good idea on a non MAFT (do they have that out for EV0s yet) or MAP sensor cars.

lazerusmfh

it seems to me high power single disk clutches cause failures of the thrust washers in supras, and i've seen it in other cars as well, so i really dont trust them, plus the pedal feel isnt quite as nice, in my friends supra, we went from an RPS single disk, to the HKS triple plate, and man alive the pedal feel was so much nicer, but we wont talk about the engaugement

I've had that issue with the dsms, the upper radiator hose attachment likes to turn to mush after so many years, but do the evos have this problem?

lazerusmfh

Well i put the cams in tonight, they make a good difference even with stock everything else! im sure it will amplify future mods, though in this form it tends to pull timing at 5k, which i presume the ecu yanks timing/boost because of some detonation, i'll know tomorrow when i put the e-manage in....

Installing the e-manage, brake lines, and a few other things tomorrow! The profec e01 will be here monday. The springs, clutch, walboro, tial bov, and the k&n air induction kit will be here next week too!

Last thing is just deciding on which exhaust to get, who has the buscher racing full exhaust? how do you like it, how much louder than stock?

TIA!

zstryder

iTrader: (19)

Don't touch the stock BOV.

Don't even think about replacing it.

Unless you plan on having to dynotune it and work out your AFR's, your Evo will hate you for putting a BOV on it. Stay with the stock recirculating valve, and all will be good. The MAF is too advanced for you to just go around replacing the BOV, just ask anyone on the forums here.

Sosa33

iTrader: (1)

True! I have clutch problems, I bought my 03 evo 8 a month ago used with 50.000 miles on it, anyways, there's is a noise with the clutch everytime I let go to it, it sounds like is scraching my tranny or something and is really anoying, but most of the time it does it when the car is cold. I ask the guy who I bought it from and he said it was an aftermarket clutch but he doesn't know what brand or nothing. the car runs good, but that freaking noise is annoying, which I don't know what kind of clutch I have so can u guys please help what I should get?

Thanks

-Sosa-

Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

Sosa, this thread is 2 years old.

Sosa33

iTrader: (1)

hahahaha Sorry well... I was searching and I found this... don't u guys want us to search first before to make a thread? but can u help me on my problem?

-Sosa-

IDRINKV8

iTrader: (27)

Back From The Dead!!!