Reverse Cooling the 4G63
#46
How are you supplying and returning coolant for the turbo with an electric water pump? I'm about to install a Davies Craig EWP with 16AN lines to a water pump plate but can't find any 16AN to 6AN adaptors to supply the turbo coolant. Turbo coolant return to the thermostat housing/swirl pot is easy.
#47
I have all the pictures on my phone yet it doesn't seem to let me go back far enough in my archive to post them here.
Basic layout:
Dual pass radiator, in/out on drivers side
Water pump sits right by the frame rail and the radiator on the drivers side
1-1/2" aluminum tubing for most of the piping
Gutted/cut down/welded factory water pump
Factory water pipe with heater, turbo, and TB tubes removed
-6AN bung welded on the tube between the pump and factory water pipe to supply water to the turbo
CNC'd flange to bolt to the head then tubing and a radiator cap flange to make the swirl pot (no thermostat)
Three -6AN fittings on the swirl pot (turbo return, radiator bleed (highest point), cylinder head bleed (TB fitting)
I have an electric power steering pump so I didn't have to worry about belt routing so that's why I completely gutted the factory pump. I also eliminated the auto-tensioner and made an adjustable alternator mount to cut weight.
Also, the term "swirl pot" I'd use loosely here. The bleeds all feed in tangentially, but the vast majority of the water flow will just sweep across the bottom of the swirl tank. It does force a small bend in flow direction but I mostly just wanted the high point on the head outlet to be fully vented into the pot to drag off air. The head and radiator bleeds should also have very low flow as there will be minimal pressure differential on them. They are just there to pull of any trapped air.
Basic layout:
Dual pass radiator, in/out on drivers side
Water pump sits right by the frame rail and the radiator on the drivers side
1-1/2" aluminum tubing for most of the piping
Gutted/cut down/welded factory water pump
Factory water pipe with heater, turbo, and TB tubes removed
-6AN bung welded on the tube between the pump and factory water pipe to supply water to the turbo
CNC'd flange to bolt to the head then tubing and a radiator cap flange to make the swirl pot (no thermostat)
Three -6AN fittings on the swirl pot (turbo return, radiator bleed (highest point), cylinder head bleed (TB fitting)
I have an electric power steering pump so I didn't have to worry about belt routing so that's why I completely gutted the factory pump. I also eliminated the auto-tensioner and made an adjustable alternator mount to cut weight.
Also, the term "swirl pot" I'd use loosely here. The bleeds all feed in tangentially, but the vast majority of the water flow will just sweep across the bottom of the swirl tank. It does force a small bend in flow direction but I mostly just wanted the high point on the head outlet to be fully vented into the pot to drag off air. The head and radiator bleeds should also have very low flow as there will be minimal pressure differential on them. They are just there to pull of any trapped air.
#48
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
I have all the pictures on my phone yet it doesn't seem to let me go back far enough in my archive to post them here.
Basic layout:
Dual pass radiator, in/out on drivers side
Water pump sits right by the frame rail and the radiator on the drivers side
1-1/2" aluminum tubing for most of the piping
Gutted/cut down/welded factory water pump
Factory water pipe with heater, turbo, and TB tubes removed
-6AN bung welded on the tube between the pump and factory water pipe to supply water to the turbo
CNC'd flange to bolt to the head then tubing and a radiator cap flange to make the swirl pot (no thermostat)
Three -6AN fittings on the swirl pot (turbo return, radiator bleed (highest point), cylinder head bleed (TB fitting)
I have an electric power steering pump so I didn't have to worry about belt routing so that's why I completely gutted the factory pump. I also eliminated the auto-tensioner and made an adjustable alternator mount to cut weight.
Also, the term "swirl pot" I'd use loosely here. The bleeds all feed in tangentially, but the vast majority of the water flow will just sweep across the bottom of the swirl tank. It does force a small bend in flow direction but I mostly just wanted the high point on the head outlet to be fully vented into the pot to drag off air. The head and radiator bleeds should also have very low flow as there will be minimal pressure differential on them. They are just there to pull of any trapped air.
Basic layout:
Dual pass radiator, in/out on drivers side
Water pump sits right by the frame rail and the radiator on the drivers side
1-1/2" aluminum tubing for most of the piping
Gutted/cut down/welded factory water pump
Factory water pipe with heater, turbo, and TB tubes removed
-6AN bung welded on the tube between the pump and factory water pipe to supply water to the turbo
CNC'd flange to bolt to the head then tubing and a radiator cap flange to make the swirl pot (no thermostat)
Three -6AN fittings on the swirl pot (turbo return, radiator bleed (highest point), cylinder head bleed (TB fitting)
I have an electric power steering pump so I didn't have to worry about belt routing so that's why I completely gutted the factory pump. I also eliminated the auto-tensioner and made an adjustable alternator mount to cut weight.
Also, the term "swirl pot" I'd use loosely here. The bleeds all feed in tangentially, but the vast majority of the water flow will just sweep across the bottom of the swirl tank. It does force a small bend in flow direction but I mostly just wanted the high point on the head outlet to be fully vented into the pot to drag off air. The head and radiator bleeds should also have very low flow as there will be minimal pressure differential on them. They are just there to pull of any trapped air.
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