Actually I will not keep knowledge I feel like sharing with others to myself, if you do not want to follow my stream of thought or you do not want to accept my experience on the matter, then do not, no one is forcing you to do so.






Marios

 

So instead of reading what I wrote, or if you did you obviously have no idea what I am talking about nor do you care to accept knowledge and experience of another, you choose to post about things you obviously have no idea about. As for what you have posted, consider this, on stock bottom end I could not change gears fast enough at 9,8K rpm, while at 9K rpm the shift was the fastest I could do, and I do shift fast, it was the same as I was shifting at 6K, the clutch had no issues whatsoever. Changed bottom end (lighter one) same clutch system, shift at 9.8K improved significantly, then changed flywheel but kept the same disks, shift became as good as any other shift at any other given rpm point.









Marios

 

I'll say again, your clutch was dragging. How does the weight of the crank effect the shift when its not (supposed to be) attached to the input shaft when the clutch is disengaged?

By lightening the rotating assembly, you reduced harmonics, which helped the clutch disc flex less at high rpm, reducing clutch drag, improving shifting. Your lighter components may have helped, but it was indirectly do. It was fixing another issue your were having, which was that your clutch was for some reason dragging.

 

i love my quartermaster 6 leg clutch. kind loud clutch chatter and will attract attention at a light with it engaged but for street driving it isnt so bad

 

You are wrong and so are your assumptions and I see there is no point in discussing this any further, if you want to understand what I posted up to now try reading proper relative articles you will find in abundance either on the net or through other sources. Engine harmonics have nothing to do with clutch shifting, in fact removing balance shafts increases engine harmonics, where on the stock bottom end balance shafts were still in place but I could not shift at 9.8K as I could on the new lighter bottom end and flywheel. My experience is my best teacher, and when I had put theory into practice as I always do before I post about something, I got the end result which justified fully the way I had choosen to do things.









Marios

 

ACTUALLY, Jacks transmission recommends you NOT remove balance shafts because the increase in harmonics can (does) cause the clutch disc to flex and drag. Negatively effecting shifting and your syncro's. Something tells me Jack's has done this a few more times than you..


http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pa...balance-shafts

 

Look mate, I am not interested in what someone did or did not, or what they write on the net or website, I've been in this field of tuning and motorsport 20 years and a lot of the theory does not actually work or it is not quite as such in applied reality. I just told you what I have done, there is also a lot of theory of what I said on the net but if I did not put it to the test I would not claim that what I read is as is, and this is how I do things, and yes I removed the balance shaft on the new setup with the new lighter bottom end and if this shows that I disagree with Jack's transmitions on the mater, then yes I do disagree, reality backs me up, plain an simple.








Marios

 

Just like your FP red has a boost threshold of <3,000 rpm. Right. Carry on...............

 

Yes it did, I now run an fp black, which is at 3800rpm, also street proven setup against a fully built head and block 2.3 evo 8 with gtx3076r turbo kit, which had nothing on me from 3K rpm second and third gear pulls all the way to sixth gear and 250+ km with lots of rpm margin to go untill red line,mine is a 2.0L setup. And yes I will carry on lol all the way doing it my way, so do not judge me by your ability.






Marios