The latest HTA Green shares the same turbine wheel as for the Red and Black, but the HTA Green before that (not the OG Green which was even earlier) utilized a turbine wheel that was just a hair larger than the BBK Full turbine wheel. I believe the comp wheel inducer sizes were very similar as well.

 

hm.. so maybe the 1.0 will work for me. aaaaaaargggggghhhhhhhhh decisions, decisions....

 

I went through the same thing but my car is definitely more AutoX focused than track, opposite of you. I went with the 1.0 even on the 2.3l cause spool is king for me. One thing that Ive seen mentioned in older Full vs B threads is if you aren't planning on runnng over 30psi, go with the Full. The B was designed as a high boost turbo and it sounds like pound for pound, under 30psi they are pretty comparable.

 

The HTA71 is an Evo 9 turbo with only a larger comp wheel slapped on it, so the BBK Full is definitely a step up. I liked the linear relationship between throttle position and boost on the Full. I only sold it because I wanted more power than what it could provide. The 3B has almost the same boost threshold but can do 40 whp better than the Full. Trade-off is a less balanced relationship between throttle position and boost in the boost threshold range. Boost tends to wind up a bit in the mid throttle positions.

 

well, i do have a built bottom end. i never ran more than 30psi on my old setup because i was on stock internals. i know i don't need a ton of power for the track, so i'm not power hungry or anything. i have to think 30psi on the 1.0 will be enough and i can definitely appreciate the idea of a precisely modulated throttle. my last turbo did about 425whp or so at 30psi and it was a blast. perfect, IMO.
i'd go with the 1.0 and just sell it off for the 2.0 if i feel i need more... but i'd hate to lose the money on the resale. i'll bide by time until i see some results. at least then i can make an educated decision.

 

I would venture to say that is from having a larger compressor on the same size turbine.

 

some more pics.
blouch turbine inside of 6h (red) housing. blouch turbine same size for all three turbos for evo x. for 8/9 I believe the 3.0 uses a larger turbine over the 2.0/1.0 turbos.

3.0-2.0-1.0

3.0-2.0

2.0-1.0

 

Agree. I wonder what 1-2 mm larger would be like. Perhaps it would be a Red. :-)

So the 3.0 comp wheel is bigger than the 2.0 comp wheel?

 

yes. the 3.0 is bigger than a black.
3.0 black red

3.0 black

 

Have you thought about combining the 3.0 turbine with the 2.0 compressor? Seems like it could be a good combo.

 

Or putting the smaller 2.0 turbine and housing on a red. Could be interesting. Granted the red is supposed to flow more than the 2.0/bbkb so it may yield undesirable results.

 

unfortunately mike at blouch is not like robert at FP. robert is super nice to talk to and will build anything even if he thinks it may not be ideal. mike on the other hand has no personality whatsover and wont even discuss making a custom turbo for you.

 

Kaj
on 2.0 you want BBK-Full size, either Blouch or HKS.
If you have 2.3 than you need BBK-B (Blouch 2.0?) or larger turbo...FP Red?
Also, at that point you are pushing stock-frame - no matter how large- to generate quiet a bit of backpressure: that is OK for DD/occasional track-day/etc...

But if you roadrace, not drive track-days, if you road race for real- for 30 minutes in desert: go full frame! Don't even think of going Stock-Frame on 2.3!
On 2.0, its fine, its reliable. But once you cross over to larger turbo you start pumping air, building backpressure, its going to backfire.

EFR may be ideal first step- if CBRD comes out with 7163, or do a GTX3076R or HTA3076.
7670 is only a hair larger than BBK-B/Blouch 2.0, so don't waste time on 2.3 with it.

Good luck..back to topic of Stock Frame.

 

yes, sir, i have a 2.0. by "road race" i mean Time Attack, so i'm really only pushing at 100% for a total of maybe 12 laps per day? the rest of time is me getting into position for a hot lap LOL. well, i actually do a few HPDE per year. so i beat on the car a bit more during those events.
i do auto-x but really don't worry about being built for that. at all. however, i think whatever i use for my track days would be okay for AX national events. again, not to worried about that. i just do it to keep skills sharp and get seat time.

if the dynochart in the other thread is right, i'm happy with the peak numbers from the 1.0. assuming a 2.0L and 2.3L pretty much make the same peak WHP as someone mentioned.

 

So I was pretty set on getting a BBK-B for my 2.3 build, but Jerry's comments about loss of feel/power in 4th and 5th makes me wonder if the Red would be a better choice.

Also, would a BBK-B comp and a Red turbine be a good match? I know people have complained about the FP ball bearings pushing oil past the seals, except FP says it's a crank vent issue.

And with the BBK-B, you don't have to use the FP oil line kit...decisions, decisions...

Not sure what I want to do know...too much good information is affecting my decisions