blouch 2.0 (cbrd bbk-b) vs. fp red
Well, he estimated, I would like to see the actual weight differences. 
It would be even more cool if we could get FP to comment on there reasoning for heavier parts. While it may hurt initial boost threshold, does it actually help transient response since the heavier wheel has more "momentum" to keep it spun up during a shift or momentary throttle lift?
It would be even more cool if we could get FP to comment on there reasoning for heavier parts. While it may hurt initial boost threshold, does it actually help transient response since the heavier wheel has more "momentum" to keep it spun up during a shift or momentary throttle lift?
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Well, he estimated, I would like to see the actual weight differences.
It would be even more cool if we could get FP to comment on there reasoning for heavier parts. While it may hurt initial boost threshold, does it actually help transient response since the heavier wheel has more "momentum" to keep it spun up during a shift or momentary throttle lift?
It would be even more cool if we could get FP to comment on there reasoning for heavier parts. While it may hurt initial boost threshold, does it actually help transient response since the heavier wheel has more "momentum" to keep it spun up during a shift or momentary throttle lift?
blouch 2.0 (cbrd bbk-b) vs. fp red
Originally Posted by Boost Demon
At some point FP switched to their HTZ wheel which they're using now, so some of these things may have been addressed already if this was an older FP Red.
I love Chad and CBRD. Really do. I wonder if the 7163 is too small for what I am aiming for (550ish whp). And it would require a bunch of stuff that I am not really wanting to put on a California car. I already have an 02 housing, FP exhaust manifold. Already spent too much on this build. Hell, I've been planning this build for so long that I bought one of the original aluminum Fluidampers for my build back in the day lol.
I finally need to start a build thread. Finally got the Cosworth thrust bearings in. That's the last thing I need before block gets assembled. Then I'll start worrying about the head.
I have an OG FP Green with like 145,000 miles on it that I can snag the 10.5 hotside from if FP sells out of the MHI housings.
I finally need to start a build thread. Finally got the Cosworth thrust bearings in. That's the last thing I need before block gets assembled. Then I'll start worrying about the head.
I have an OG FP Green with like 145,000 miles on it that I can snag the 10.5 hotside from if FP sells out of the MHI housings.
most of the cars coming to us now-a-days are needing a downpipe, manifold, etc- so these packages are working well for us particularly in evo X, evo 8/9 is just coming into production-
its good that Blouch and Robert have their turbos still available for the stock housing client!
cb
I agree that it may not be the right option for you! since you have all of that.
most of the cars coming to us now-a-days are needing a downpipe, manifold, etc- so these packages are working well for us particularly in evo X, evo 8/9 is just coming into production-
its good that Blouch and Robert have their turbos still available for the stock housing client!
cb
most of the cars coming to us now-a-days are needing a downpipe, manifold, etc- so these packages are working well for us particularly in evo X, evo 8/9 is just coming into production-
its good that Blouch and Robert have their turbos still available for the stock housing client!
cb
I still may need you for one of your divorced downpipes in the future. I'm gonna dynotune it with the Works 3" 02 housing, and then (later) I'll be tweaking with things because I am curious how each small improvement may help the car 
And your ti lug nuts and radiator are fantastic
FWIW, some of the drag racing community has indeed found heavier wheels can actually work to your advantage. You leave the line on launch control with a lot of shaft speed. After that, all you are really trying to do is keep shaft speed maxed out and a heavier wheel helps do exactly that.
Street driving...as long as it is reliable, lighter is better.
Street driving...as long as it is reliable, lighter is better.
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See, I wasn't that far off
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I also agree that you should have no problem as long as you have a good setup. What cams do you run? When I get my car back with 2.3 I will post my results as I run a BBK-3B, no e85 in my area so it will be on 93/meth.