BlackHawk_Tsi

check for continuity from here to that injector plug. reference from a wire diagram too.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

they move on the same stoke, but cylinders fire one at a time.

BlackHawk_Tsi

Ah yeah my technique wouldn't work..... hmmmm..... I believe it's that circuit to that injector. Use a test light or a meter to see if the injector circuit is getting power.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

he said it's getting pulses, which makes it all the more weird. unless the voltage is off?

needsboost

iTrader: (4)

^ was my next thought, what is the voltage that should be getting to the injector to pulse? 12v? i will check it when i get home.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

from what i can tell from your picture, that wire looks a bit hacked? if so, and the voltage or resistance is off, that could be the problem.
it would be nice if it came down to a bad wire

i suck at electrical stuff, so just thinking with some common sense LOL

needsboost

iTrader: (4)

I assume it was hacked apart when Best Buy installed my alarm system back before i had a house and garage... First thing I am trying it removing what it is hacked into there with that big green wire and reconnecting the red wire. maybe it didnt matter when the resistor box was there and now it does?

kaj

iTrader: (60)

i don't know the schematics, but possible.

turbo timers and alarms are the source of many, many electrical issues LOL.

needsboost

iTrader: (4)

First off, I'd like to thank everyone that helped and responded so quickly, its a refreshing change from other platforms.

Car is all fixed. Very simply put, either don't get an alarm system installed, or be VERY picky about who does it and how they do it, or do it yourself. I had Best Buy install a Viper 5901 alarm 2 years ago. Little did I know that they hacked my injector harness up to steal power from for a box that I still have no idea what it was meant for. They cut my #4 cylinder injector wire (the red/black wire), spliced in their resistor box, and then spliced it on the other side into the red/orange which i am assuming is a 12v input for the resistor box.

The reason I was able to get the noid test to work was there was voltage to the injector, but it was very little, as the box wired in was basically a resistor box of its own, impeding my voltage. So, enough to light the diode in the test, not enough to fully open the injector, thus no fuel but hearing the clicking of it half opening or semi.

Green wire is what they spliced, you can see red/black completely cut


Box that was wired in line with the cut injector wire to do... something?


Yep, same red/black wire as the one that was cut

kaj

iTrader: (60)

yup. alarms and turbo timers. the devil LOL

i have two friends that own stereo/alarm shops. NOT something a beginner should do.

glad you found the issues. awesome!

BlackHawk_Tsi

continuity to the rescue! congrats! keep rolling.