Self-Built oil pan
Sep 25, 2016, 09:57 AM
#33
Either way, the amount of time would depend on the amount of g forces in any given situation.
Thanks. It was a pain in the butt, but I'm glad i did it. It's something our cars need if they are being tracked or Autoxed, IMO. Four quarts just isn't enough oil for a high-performance turbo car and baffling is needed for those long, right-handed turns.
Sep 25, 2016, 12:12 PM
#34
No sir. If you are referring to stock pans, I'm sure someone has logged it, if you search this site you may find the info. If you mean for my pan, I think the only pan that has any data behind it is RaceFab and only because one person bought one and logged the info himself.
Either way, the amount of time would depend on the amount of g forces in any given situation.
Either way, the amount of time would depend on the amount of g forces in any given situation.
I'll do some digging around. I've mainly heard the general "on good 255 street tires it will starve in long right handers" So, I've kind of gathered that I shouldn't sustain over ~1g average for 2-3 seconds. I typically only run RS-3's unless I find something really cheap (Z2's for free, etc).
I follow a lot of your posts and you seem to be along the same train of thought as me where you aren't going to just aimlessly spend money on a mod unless you have heavy heavy justification. You also seem to actually drive your car hard.
.....
O/T
I got burned on a pan for my S2000 that I bought more so for "insurance" as I frequent Roebling a lot and it can be hell on the oiling system/engine even on street tires. Additional 1qt capacity and a fairly standard diamond trap door setup, simple enough right? A few guys tried the pan and reported success so I decided to get it. It ended up starving under braking and cornering on the free Z2's that I got as takeoffs from a friend in a very short right hander. Logged lateral accel was .9g and longitudal was -1g. So, I'll be going back to the OEM pan with a weld in baffle...
You can see it on the top gauge with video quality at 1080 in full screen.
Sep 25, 2016, 01:46 PM
#35
I was asking about the stock pan in hopes that it will suffice for the very occasional 20min session on 255 RS3's.
I'll do some digging around. I've mainly heard the general "on good 255 street tires it will starve in long right handers" So, I've kind of gathered that I shouldn't sustain over ~1g average for 2-3 seconds. I typically only run RS-3's unless I find something really cheap (Z2's for free, etc).
I follow a lot of your posts and you seem to be along the same train of thought as me where you aren't going to just aimlessly spend money on a mod unless you have heavy heavy justification. You also seem to actually drive your car hard.
.....
O/T
I got burned on a pan for my S2000 that I bought more so for "insurance" as I frequent Roebling a lot and it can be hell on the oiling system/engine even on street tires. Additional 1qt capacity and a fairly standard diamond trap door setup, simple enough right? A few guys tried the pan and reported success so I decided to get it. It ended up starving under braking and cornering on the free Z2's that I got as takeoffs from a friend in a very short right hander. Logged lateral accel was .9g and longitudal was -1g. So, I'll be going back to the OEM pan with a weld in baffle...
You can see it on the top gauge with video quality at 1080 in full screen.
I'll do some digging around. I've mainly heard the general "on good 255 street tires it will starve in long right handers" So, I've kind of gathered that I shouldn't sustain over ~1g average for 2-3 seconds. I typically only run RS-3's unless I find something really cheap (Z2's for free, etc).
I follow a lot of your posts and you seem to be along the same train of thought as me where you aren't going to just aimlessly spend money on a mod unless you have heavy heavy justification. You also seem to actually drive your car hard.
.....
O/T
I got burned on a pan for my S2000 that I bought more so for "insurance" as I frequent Roebling a lot and it can be hell on the oiling system/engine even on street tires. Additional 1qt capacity and a fairly standard diamond trap door setup, simple enough right? A few guys tried the pan and reported success so I decided to get it. It ended up starving under braking and cornering on the free Z2's that I got as takeoffs from a friend in a very short right hander. Logged lateral accel was .9g and longitudal was -1g. So, I'll be going back to the OEM pan with a weld in baffle...
You can see it on the top gauge with video quality at 1080 in full screen.
And it's true: I can't afford to waste money on the car. I was happy with the AMS baffling of my OEM pan because it was better than nothing. I decided to have my new pan done by a guy I know because he is awesome at fab work.
After some discussion, we agreed that more oil capacity was needed for HPDE and Time Attack. I concurred after considering my temps during a normal track day. I showed him the RaceFab pan and he said he could do something similar. My $100 baffling turned into a $600 sump and trap door system LOL.
I weighed the cost against another rebuild and decided it should be done.I had to work a few extra shifts at work, but the peace of mind is worth it.
The ONLY drawback, is i used a thicker oil this time and it takes quite a while to get up to operating temps. LOL.
Is your S2k an AP1? I think I read they have oil starvation issues for some reason (I haven't researched it much). Sorry to hear about it not working out for ya, though. That's a serious bummer, man.
Sep 25, 2016, 02:15 PM
#36
AP1 chassis with AP2 engine.
Oil pan/pickup is the same. AP1 engines had issues with valve spring retainers breaking, oil cooler jets being a tad bit too small (typically results in scoring on cylinder walls over long periods of time/tracking), and poor valve cover baffling/PCV operation under cornering though the AP2 valve cover isn't phenomenally better based on personal experience.
Did you go to a 50wt oil? I am going to just go to 15w-50 300V in the S2k since it only sees track duty. I was on the fence about it in the evo and opted to just use T6 Rotella, which I use in every other car I own.
Oil pan/pickup is the same. AP1 engines had issues with valve spring retainers breaking, oil cooler jets being a tad bit too small (typically results in scoring on cylinder walls over long periods of time/tracking), and poor valve cover baffling/PCV operation under cornering though the AP2 valve cover isn't phenomenally better based on personal experience.
Did you go to a 50wt oil? I am going to just go to 15w-50 300V in the S2k since it only sees track duty. I was on the fence about it in the evo and opted to just use T6 Rotella, which I use in every other car I own.
Sep 25, 2016, 02:43 PM
#37
AP1 chassis with AP2 engine.
Oil pan/pickup is the same. AP1 engines had issues with valve spring retainers breaking, oil cooler jets being a tad bit too small (typically results in scoring on cylinder walls over long periods of time/tracking), and poor valve cover baffling/PCV operation under cornering though the AP2 valve cover isn't phenomenally better based on personal experience.
Did you go to a 50wt oil? I am going to just go to 15w-50 300V in the S2k since it only sees track duty. I was on the fence about it in the evo and opted to just use T6 Rotella, which I use in every other car I own.
Oil pan/pickup is the same. AP1 engines had issues with valve spring retainers breaking, oil cooler jets being a tad bit too small (typically results in scoring on cylinder walls over long periods of time/tracking), and poor valve cover baffling/PCV operation under cornering though the AP2 valve cover isn't phenomenally better based on personal experience.
Did you go to a 50wt oil? I am going to just go to 15w-50 300V in the S2k since it only sees track duty. I was on the fence about it in the evo and opted to just use T6 Rotella, which I use in every other car I own.
Sep 25, 2016, 05:19 PM
#40
I will have to look at my logs for the oil temps but if I remember correctly it was like 10 degrees with the same amount of driving. Driving hard at the track the whole works. This was with a stock oil pan as well. I haven't seen my car since March so I will have to see what the Haltech said to get exact #'s but I know for a fact it was about 10*.
Sep 25, 2016, 06:25 PM
#42
I will have to look at my logs for the oil temps but if I remember correctly it was like 10 degrees with the same amount of driving. Driving hard at the track the whole works. This was with a stock oil pan as well. I haven't seen my car since March so I will have to see what the Haltech said to get exact #'s but I know for a fact it was about 10*.
If you are all stock, then heck yeah. If I were running anything other than an FP turbo, I'd still be on T6 myself. I really would like to go back to it.. but FP should know better than I, so I'll take their advice.
Sep 26, 2016, 01:51 AM
#43
Oh, so your temps were down with the thicker oil? hm.... 10* is a nice change, though.
If you are all stock, then heck yeah. If I were running anything other than an FP turbo, I'd still be on T6 myself. I really would like to go back to it.. but FP should know better than I, so I'll take their advice.
If you are all stock, then heck yeah. If I were running anything other than an FP turbo, I'd still be on T6 myself. I really would like to go back to it.. but FP should know better than I, so I'll take their advice.
Sep 26, 2016, 07:53 AM
#44
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
The FP recommended oils aren't a "trend". They simply recommend/require a high ZDDP content oil for their journal bearing Evo turbos.
Sep 26, 2016, 08:46 AM
#45
I ran 10w30 in my stock motor with it. With my new motor idk what he is going to put in it but I'm pretty sure he will run 20w50 if not I will continue to run 10w30.
That is the reason I don't follow trends and buy FP stuff. I run what I want and no one can say **** about it ya know. We tore my motor appart and even 54k miles on Schaffers my motor still had 150 across the board for compression test. Actually no that is wrong I had #3 at like 130 and it had 110k on the motor and I drove it hard all the time, track days and the guy who owned the car before me did autox and road course. So that will tell you how good this stuff is. Unfortunately its a little expensive. A case is like 120 bucks or so for 10w30. Now I will be running 6.5 qts so oil changes will be very expensive but well worth the protection in my book specially when you spend nearly 8k on a motor.
That is the reason I don't follow trends and buy FP stuff. I run what I want and no one can say **** about it ya know. We tore my motor appart and even 54k miles on Schaffers my motor still had 150 across the board for compression test. Actually no that is wrong I had #3 at like 130 and it had 110k on the motor and I drove it hard all the time, track days and the guy who owned the car before me did autox and road course. So that will tell you how good this stuff is. Unfortunately its a little expensive. A case is like 120 bucks or so for 10w30. Now I will be running 6.5 qts so oil changes will be very expensive but well worth the protection in my book specially when you spend nearly 8k on a motor.
And i feel your pain on oil changes. I use damned near 7qts @ $10+ a pop. Thank God I don't race every weekend LOL