I have mine oriented as push mode, same as OEM style. I don't want the BOV to do anything excessively fast, I want it to act smooth for part throttle stability.

 

Thanks. Did you ever try different configs? I don't want the thing being finicky, but at the same time fast response seems like it by nature would offer better response on and off the throttle.

I know what you're saying but I don't think fast response equates to not being smooth. I'd think the faster it responds the easier it would be to modulate the throttle in that the thing is keeping up with how quickly you let off and get back on the gas vs a delay. But I suppose it its so sensitive a small blip or something could cause it to act where reality you dont want it to be doing anything. IDK man I think I just need to get it on my car and try different settings.

I know my current valve is bleeding off boost pressure but my boost is also down recently and I dont think I have any other boost leaks so I suspect my valve has something to do with that.

 

I haven't bothered with trying the other configs because it just worked so well this way. To me, pull configuration just seems like it would give a jerkier response than push with the pressure difference used to smooth out response.

And slow response isn't really slow. I have never felt like there was additional lag created by the valve not closing and small adjustments in throttle mid-corner under load are as instant as my butt can tell.

 

Word. Well thanks for the info. I guess you're right in that slow doesnt really mean slow. Were probably talking about milliseconds here anyway so I wonder if it would even be noticeable to my well trained butt? Data logs between shifts might yield something but and then again there is the human error aspect there so it's be hard to say one way vs another.

At the end of the day if this thing holds boost which I know it will and it doesn't flutter then the rest is gravy. Spool should be better since the turbo won't be blowing up a balloon with a pinhole leak in it.

Just hope mine arrives soon so I have some time to take some logs and make some changes if needbe before my last event of the season on the 29th or else I'll just rock my current one. Not going to make much of a difference anyway since this will only be #4 for me this season so I'll spend half the day trying to figure out why I suck so bad.

 

I think the best valve to be had for your turbo and requirements is something else. Some thing that uses the same configuration as oe but improved. Offers a wide range of modulation and has been proven easy to set up and drive like stock with solid boost holding ability. Greddy type s or even the FV ..

 

For what it's worth, on my gt3582r setup going from a push (Tial Q) to the Synchronic (Pull) style really cleaned everything up on part throttle boost.

The push valve would give me shudders/flutters/surge. The pull got rid of almost all of this behavior.

The bigger the turbo you run, the more likelihood of exhibiting this type of behavior. Synapse Synchronic or HKS are the only valves I recommend to people running larger frame turbos.

 

Im excited to try out my valve when it finally ships out...Thought i'd have it this week but apparently "in stock" on a website doesn't actually mean in stock, lol!

And once again the more people post what works well for them the more Im realizing that there isnt a one size fits all approach.

Care to expand on this? I haven't heard much about Greddy BOV's in a while now...

 

Sure, the oem design yields the best driving and smoothest torque output. It's a diaphragm and plunger design , nearly identical to the Greddy type s. One of the dsm mods involves isolating an oem 1g valve boost reference port. And actually using a solenoid to keep it referenced when you wish. This with an oem 1g is ok because they are slightly softer sprung. I did the same mod to a evo metal valve, and surged due to the slightly stiffer spring at lower throttle lifts. The type s design solves this in a few ways. 1 gives you preload adjustment 2 gives you two Springs 3 gives you an oring seal on the plunger 4 already isolated bottom boost reference.

Take the small spring out, and don't use the bottom port. This is a vastly popular method for setting up this valve. Very responsive and you have spring plus area of the chamber size on top, against a roughly half that area worth of plunger facing the intercooler pipe. Its a good combination and there are several articles in the web about this.

Now they don't make a genuine type s any more and I don't advocate the replicas.

That brings us to the fv

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/683594-turned-my-type-s-into-fv-shh.html

I made one .. by cutting up a perfectly good authentic type s.

It worked. I keep thinking tinkering with it and never heard a single flutter.

Then the next owner put a real FV on with great and nearly in discernable differences. The fv is basically a single spring set up type s with a two piece plunger and a light spring on the lower half. This keeps a check valve like action on the plunger and is a really solid driver that doesn't leak. Again same oring seal and all..

 

So I'm the OP, and I still haven't decided - LMAO

Is the Synapse still the choice in 2018 for drive-ability on MAF setups?

Also, have the QA issues been resolved?

 

Yes to both.

Other than a crushed OEM diverter valve or a Tial recirculated, Synpase diverter valve (not their 100psi BOV) is the best for driveability and makes a clean sound. The quality issues with the cracking mounting flange have also been fixed lol.

 

Thanks, I'll order one shortly!

Guess I'll have to call them as their website won't allow me to add it to the cart.

 

Man I still have not pulled the trigger on a new BOV/DV, and I'm finally ready with cash in hand, but the Synapse reviews and the BBB rating for them (D-) has scared me away from them.

The only problem I have is BOV flutter during high gear low boost throttle lift off - causes bucking on my HTA71 with surge compressor housing. Yes I can tune it out with Mivec, but I don't want to lose response here.

Any other BOV's alleviate flutter while holding 28-30 psi?

 

Have you tried doing the gus mod to the stock bov? I've done it on a few cars and it works fairly well. I just plug the internal port and vent the passge, I don't boterh with the solenoid or anything.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...it-mr-bov.html

 

 

I have not, but I am familiar, I might try this, thanks.