Is it a boat or a car?

Surely a driveshaft rebuild shop has done these before?

 

I visited a driveshaft shop. What they could do is cut out the u-joints so I'd only end up reusing the tubes. The flanges they can get but they would have to source the yoke from Mitsubishi if they can. Feeling the notchy u-joints the employee remarked, "This came off of one of those Japanese cars that have the differential bolted on didn't it - The driveshaft never moves and all the wear is in one place." Anyway, he said bring it back and they'd see what they can do. I want to hear, not a problem we do these all the time.

Most of the customer cars parked around the place were Jeeps.

On a different subject, I have a new transmission installed. Everything in the clutch department is new except for a reused pressure plate. As soon as the throw out bearing was snapped in I had to check clutch pedal effort. I'd say down by half. This surprised me because I had the transmission out two years ago and pulled, cleaned and lubricated everything. So, take a heavy aftermarket clutch with old parts and understand why people break the bracket under the dash.

And finally, I think I have mastered the circle clip. I find, to get them to snap in easily, turn the gap to the bottom.

 

I would just order a 2pc drive shaft from DSS or similar. You're going to spend a lot rebuilding the OEM one.

 

There's three part numbers for the Evo 8 drive shaft. Apparently some changes were made. Second, the Evo 8 drive shaft is no longer made. Third the Evo 9 drive shaft fits. Forth, its much cheaper, about the same price as an up scale after market unit. Fifth, there's not a single one in the country but I have my name on the next one to show up.

 

Why not just order an aftermarket one from Driveshaft shop? They really do drive better.


http://www.driveshaftshop.com/import...eshaft-w-o-ayc

 

The DSM's were recalled for drive shaft issues. It had to do with the transfer case output shaft pistoning into the front yoke with enough force to push gear oil right through the pressed in plug. The OEM drive shaft has a LoBro joint that can act as a slp joint. Aftermarket parts don't.

 

The aftermarket shafts use a plunging CV joint for the front joint of the rear section.


Scroll down to post #22 and you can see it.


https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ictures-2.html

 

Amazing. Looking at the pictures on the Drive Shaft Shop page I can't tell what is back there, the information on the page says nothing about this joint being there and the people I asked specifically about this joint said nothing. Anyway, the order is placed, the price is the same so its a done deal. I'm pleased to see though they do make them right.

 

A new driveshaft arrived today and is installed - thanks STM for the super fast service.

The original had three notchy u-joints and the lo-bro joint boot is 360 degrees split open and turned inside out. The joint itself feels normal. Both carrier bearings are like new. This with 115000 miles and on a 14 year old car.

 

Your engine mounts have probably failed, that's what kills the universal joints. Engine and propshaft no longer on the same axis.

 

Yeah, a common problem in older cars. However, a month ago I had all four mounts on the bench for examination. They looked fine to me and went back in the car.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-hard-way.html

 

Has Anyone Found Replacement Driveshaft U-Joints? Can you send me the part number for the U Joint

 

They don't exist. Have to a buy a complete shaft.

 

How do you know if the non-serviceable u-joints are bad? My prop shaft rear carrier bearing has lots of play and seems to be causing lots of loud noise in 3rd and 4th gear at 3-4K rpm on decel.

I’m thinking of just buying a used driveshaft but haven’t put out the option to have a trans shop kinda overhauling my driveshaft like Jafromobile’s vids.

If parts orders in 2021 weren’t a guessing game I’d probably order an aluminum 2 piece from DSS.