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I’ll look into it. Did you see benefits from it? Well a better question would be is there benefit to it on stock turbo?
If you can avoid pulling head, then wait. But if you already have head off, I would spend some time with grinder wheel and smooth out as much as you could. I have not taken off my head yet, but I'm sure I will smooth everything out (just enough and nothing more). When I pulled my turbo to install HTA71, I match ported and smoothed exhaust manufold, aftermarket O2, and turbo 10.5 hot side. Here's a picture of exhaust manifold:
It should help flows and allow air to flow easier. It should get you more power since there is less restrictions no matter which turbo you have. Just touch up and don't go crazy on it.
In additon, while head is out, clean up any carbon build up on your valves (ususally exhaust valves), pistons, and exhaust ports. Remember, the porting to a gasket should have a smaller opening then the port after a gasket. For example, the head exhaust opening should be slightly smaller then exhaust manifold gasket. The exhaust manifold should be as big as gasket opening. You can try to port both sides to exactly the same size as gasket (which is best), but you don't have any "play" for installation. What I mean is that when you bolt the manifold up to head, does it line up exactly? I believe that if you have upflow pieces slightly smaller, you don't need to worry about a perfect alignment when installing.
Also, be careful when porting aluminum. It is much softer than exhaust manifold (iron) and you need to be gentle to avoid taking off too much metal too quickly. I started with a carbide burr for iron moving to grinding wheels. Stick to grinding wheels and WD40 for aluminum.
If you can avoid pulling head, then wait. But if you already have head off, I would spend some time with grinder wheel and smooth out as much as you could. I have not taken off my head yet, but I'm sure I will smooth everything out (just enough and nothing more). When I pulled my turbo to install HTA71, I match ported and smoothed exhaust manufold, aftermarket O2, and turbo 10.5 hot side. Here's a picture of exhaust manifold:
It should help flows and allow air to flow easier. It should get you more power since there is less restrictions no matter which turbo you have. Just touch up and don't go crazy on it.
In additon, while head is out, clean up any carbon build up on your valves (ususally exhaust valves), pistons, and exhaust ports. Remember, the porting to a gasket should have a smaller opening then the port after a gasket. For example, the head exhaust opening should be slightly smaller then exhaust manifold gasket. The exhaust manifold should be as big as gasket opening. You can try to port both sides to exactly the same size as gasket (which is best), but you don't have any "play" for installation. What I mean is that when you bolt the manifold up to head, does it line up exactly? I believe that if you have upflow pieces slightly smaller, you don't need to worry about a perfect alignment when installing.
that port work accomplishes nothing. why would making the last 1/2" of the port make it flow better when you dont touch the other 10" ?
the gasket openings are quite a bit larger than the ports need to be. the real work on the intake side is down in the port at the throat and bowls.
that video is just polish work, the guy didnt reshape or actually move any metal. its going to be better than it was, but minimally, especially for the effort.
that port work accomplishes nothing. why would making the last 1/2" of the port make it flow better when you dont touch the other 10" ?
the gasket openings are quite a bit larger than the ports need to be. the real work on the intake side is down in the port at the throat and bowls.
that video is just polish work, the guy didnt reshape or actually move any metal. its going to be better than it was, but minimally, especially for the effort.
Are you asking about my exhaust manifold? I did hone all of my runners and reshaped my collectors. It was a lot of work. Do I have proof that it works? Not really. But I do have my boost curve with a HFC. It appears to spool as fast as someone with test pipe.
As for head, theory is to have larger diameter after each joint for smoother flows. Factory is small diameter into large gasket diameter, then back to small diameter (all 90 degrees). So if piece after gasket is match ported, air doesn't hit 90 degree reduction after gasket and gets clogged there. It would smoothly get compressed back with a port.
By smoothing out imperfections, it has to flow better along walls (fluid dynamics). I wouldn't tell OP to redesign his factory throat and bowls because he has no way of knowing how that affects air flows to valves and how fuel mixes. The factory has a curvature to divert air to the valve openings while many machine shops just shaves all that off.
Anyway, all I was saying is to do a little more to help his head if he already has it off, not to spend a lot of money and send to machine shop for head work.
I just skimmed through Buschur's exhaust manifold porting thread and see what you're saying about gasket match porting. I guess I'm losing power on my setup.
I need to go through the thread a few more times to fully understand.
Originally Posted by TrendSetter
that port work accomplishes nothing. why would making the last 1/2" of the port make it flow better when you dont touch the other 10" ?
the gasket openings are quite a bit larger than the ports need to be. the real work on the intake side is down in the port at the throat and bowls.
that video is just polish work, the guy didnt reshape or actually move any metal. its going to be better than it was, but minimally, especially for the effort.
let me ask yall something because ive searched everywhere and everyone says something different...if i pull the head and install the headstuds do i use the moly lube on the part that goes into the block and on the top where the nut goes or just on the top? some people say to not use lube on the part that goes into the block and some say to...i tried calling arp but cant get in touch with them...
let me ask yall something because ive searched everywhere and everyone says something different...if i pull the head and install the headstuds do i use the moly lube on the part that goes into the block and on the top where the nut goes or just on the top? some people say to not use lube on the part that goes into the block and some say to...i tried calling arp but cant get in touch with them...
I did 1 by 1 on my ARP head studs. I did use lube on all and the only headstuds and nuts. I had a problem with was the one closest to driver. It's also the oil supply to head and had debris inside thread. I noticed that bolt didn't really set up without chasing the threads. I ran a chase to clear it up and then torqued it down to 85 ft-lbs. I retorqued it a week after and it seem to hold. Everyone will have a different answer so GL finding an answer everyone agrees on.
Just as a safety, I may check the torque yearly since I'll probably be boosting 30 psi.
i been boosting 31 psi on stock head bolts lol...well, peaks 31 hehe...so you used moly lube on both sides of the head stud? i talking if i pull the head...if i decide to not do 1 x 1 and pull it
i been boosting 31 psi on stock head bolts lol...well, peaks 31 hehe...so you used moly lube on both sides of the head stud? i talking if i pull the head...if i decide to not do 1 x 1 and pull it
you're brave to boost 31 psi on stock studs. Lol.
If your head gasket isn't leaking, why break the seal? Keep us posted on what you eventually do.
just to be clear, you're right. I take this back. Don't gasket match. I think cleaning up the factory imperfections is still a good thing and clean up carbon buildup would help avoid potential hotspots.
Last edited by 2006EvoIXer; Mar 5, 2018 at 10:05 PM.
just to be clear, you're right. I take this back. Don't gasket match. I think cleaning up the factory imperfections is still a good thing and clean up carbon buildup would help avoid potential hotspots.
it helps to try to visualize the entire path from valve to turbo or throttle body to valve.
a gasket match is basically making a bulge part of the way through an otherwise continuous path.
for someone new to porting, its a good start to just clean up the casting flash, and smooth out sharp edges. once you get more advanced you can start reshaping ports, but it generally requires a systemic approach to be the most effective.
i was feeling froggy the day i chopped up my head and posted some pictures and short descriptions. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ead-today.html
Last edited by TrendSetter; Mar 6, 2018 at 04:48 AM.
let me ask yall something because ive searched everywhere and everyone says something different...if i pull the head and install the headstuds do i use the moly lube on the part that goes into the block and on the top where the nut goes or just on the top? some people say to not use lube on the part that goes into the block and some say to...i tried calling arp but cant get in touch with them...
there are many different opinions on this. here is mine when it comes to head studs. I like to use a little bit of clean engine oil on the bottom threads that go into the block. this isnt really necessary and i wouldnt be too scared of doing them dry, but i like the oil for corrosion resistance long term and they will be less likely to get stuck in the block when you take it apart some day. there is no reason you cant use the arp lube. i dont because its expensive and not needed for that part since that part doesnt move during the torquing process.
then i set the head gasket and head on, then use an acid brush and plenty of the arp lube, put it on the head surface where the washer goes, put some on the threads of the stud, then both sides of the washer, then the bottom of the nut, and put a little bit inside the threads of the nut. its very important to be liberal with the arp lube.
as for the 1x1 subject. ive never needed to do it, but i would if the opportunity came up. im on the cavalier end of the spectrum when it comes to stuff like that though.
good luck.
Mar 3, 2018, 01:56 PM
