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Old Mar 15, 2018 | 07:21 PM
  #76  
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Are you installing ARP head studs?
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Old Mar 16, 2018 | 07:57 AM
  #77  
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Yes already did. Stopped there and today lifters, cams, manifolds etc. Yeah I ask because I figured it would be a pita keeping them with the dowel facing up as they go in.
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Old Mar 16, 2018 | 08:56 AM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by nor11384
Yes already did. Stopped there and today lifters, cams, manifolds etc. Yeah I ask because I figured it would be a pita keeping them with the dowel facing up as they go in.
were you able to "finger tighten" all your head studs?
Make sure every lifter are able to hold pressure (to verify internal check valves don't leak). Cams go in easily by torquing down cam caps in a pattern and go through 3 or 4 cycles in even step increments. Setting timing belt is the pita. Lol
Be patient
Also, when installing manifolds, pay attention for me to see how the ports line up. I'm curious if holes line up centered or if the manifolds hang lowered (there is 0.04" difference in diameter between head and manifold). Thanks.

Last edited by 2006EvoIXer; Mar 16, 2018 at 09:06 AM.
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Old Mar 16, 2018 | 09:49 AM
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I’ll check. I ordered itm lifters so I’ll bleed them and get them in.
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Old Mar 16, 2018 | 01:15 PM
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What about your rocker arms? I soaked all my lifters and rocker arms in cleaning fluid. Then I drained and dried the parts while keeping track which piece came from where. I put them all back in same positions just in case there were slight seating angles (wear on moving parts). Before installing, I filled and flush/bled lifters with new synthetic oil and used assembly lube inside the entire roller bearing of each rocker arm. Assembly lube is thick, so roller bearings didn't spin easily, but that's fine with me since I don't know how long it would take before oil gets inside. Besides my GSC 5041 will put extra pressure on these bearings and I didn't want bearing to be dry. Take your time and pamper your baby.
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Old Mar 16, 2018 | 02:06 PM
  #81  
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Oh I put everything back in the exact same spot.
Now comes the fun part. Timing. Here goes nothing lol.
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Old Mar 16, 2018 | 02:12 PM
  #82  
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Fun times!
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Old Mar 16, 2018 | 08:27 PM
  #83  
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all right so i noticed the crank sensor lightly scrapes on the plate when spinning the motor...it scrapes on the 2 sides that stick out every time they come around...this is where it is supposed to read the position of the crank...idk if this is normal or what...any input?

* i just thought of something...could it be because i have the crank bolt in there without the washer just so i can turn the crank? I pulled the crank bolt out when i dissasembled everything but i put it in there temporary so i can turn the crank...I just realized that the washer will put pressure on the sprocket which will put pressure on plate and the rear sprocket where balance shaft rides on...without the washer its just sitting there...i hope thats it...

Last edited by nor11384; Mar 16, 2018 at 08:48 PM.
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Old Mar 16, 2018 | 10:59 PM
  #84  
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I noticed that mine had contact with plate (on driver side) too. I didn't know if that occurred before or after my 60k mile timing belt change. Guess I should have bent the plate outward by pulling on it.
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Old Mar 17, 2018 | 07:24 AM
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What do you mean on driver side? I’m talking about the crank wheel plate. When spinning the motor every time one of the little parts where the sensor reads on comes around it lightly scrapes. You see the 2 big ear looking things. Every time one of those come around it lightly scrapes on the sensor making a light noise.
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Old Mar 17, 2018 | 11:50 AM
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As the metal piece that goes in between the sensor, mine touches the sensor on the driver/left/engine/mount side. The side towards the passenger/pulley/right is too big. So mine is like it has extra washers, which is opposite of your situation.
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Old Mar 17, 2018 | 05:21 PM
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Let me ask you. Tomorrow am I supposed to be able to slide the pin in the tensioner still? I set timing a couple times and after like half an hour the pin gets harder to put in. I set it and it slides in now but tomorrow am I supposed to still be able to slide it in or is it just after the first 15 min?
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Old Mar 17, 2018 | 06:07 PM
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Turn the crank first, then put the pin back in.
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Old Mar 17, 2018 | 06:10 PM
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Turn motor over 6 revolutions (I think it takes 6 revs for timing marks to line up each time) and check to make sure timing marks line up again. If yes, then pull pin. Should easily slide out and you should easily put back in.

The tensioner is supposed to self adjust after 15-30 minutes, so if it's good after an hour, it should be good tomorrow too.

Last edited by 2006EvoIXer; Mar 17, 2018 at 06:21 PM.
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Old Mar 17, 2018 | 06:18 PM
  #90  
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I did and after like half hour pin gets harder to put in. Is this normal? Maybe it’s self adjusting or something?
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