Long time lurker, I finally made an account.. and as I've seen, many blown 4g63s have popped up here. My block has finally blown, after 6 years.. but the 6 speed is still holding strong! Plans for the car are, and have been, auto x and some local tracks and I am really trying to exhaust my other options besides the '63.. The 4g69 is diiiirt cheap around me, and I know pretty much everything I need. I am going to go:

100mm crank
150mm rods
87mm pistons
(brands etc I'll figure out after I've hammered out the details)

Now, I am not someone who is 'seriously'into racing, it's all in fun and entertainment as this is my "fun car". I don't need 8k+ RPMs and just want something to spool my FP black up a bit faster for the street and won't hurt the wallet too badly.

I can't find much definitive or assuring information about the 4g63 intake/exhaust manifold mounting to the 4g69. Also any information on the evo IX 6 speed mounting up would be helpful. Or any help at all on making either work with the evo 9 MR platform...

If I have missed any forum posts, or simply looked over any important ones, please link me here if possible. (Also mods, I'm sorry if this is the wrong place to post this type of question. Any and all help is appreciated!

 

The head will bolt up, but you should be getting a 4g64 block, not a 4g69.

 

@letsgetthisdone I have no plans to go 156mm rods, I just want the displacement. I know both will have head gasket issues, but so many '64 problems are solved with the '69. Main one being oil squirter machining.. No plans to increase bore either. Just want to find a block I can beat on and not worry about. Is it really worth just going 64 and machining it for oil squirters + all the adapters?

and when you say the head will bolt up, do you mean to the intake/exhaust mani's + the tranny?

Thanks,
Willington

 

Hey, thanks for joining us on the EvOM boards. Great to have you participating vs lurking

You have raised up a good topic (4G64 vs 4G69) & have also picked the right forum to post in

Welcome, Joe

 

@MinusPrevious Thanks! I appreciate the welcoming!

Also, to anybody else, probably going to go 9-9.5:1 for CR. looking for a solid, reliable, and easily FP black spooling 450hp/450tq.

 

You don't need oil squirters. Most strutted pistons don't even clear them anyways. And when you bend them to clear, they usually brake.

The 100mm crank with 150mm rod combo isn't the greatest. Having the extra deck height and using 156mm rods is WAY more ideal. They won't have head gasket issues if the surfaces are properly machined and you use a good gasket.

The intake and exhaust manifolds bolt to the head, not the block, and you'll be need to use your Evo head, so I'm not sure what you're asking....?

The only "adapter" you need for the 4g64 is for the water pump. That issue is solved by contacting English Racing for there modified Evo pump that bolts right up and doesn't use an adapter.

 

 

@letsgetthisdone Sorry, had a few too many drinks last night, was cheersing off the ol' 63. I think I was "trying"? to ask is if the 63 block mounts with the 69 head, I knew it did for the 64, was unsure about the new mivec 4gs.. Sorry for the confusion, I appreciate you explaining it well to me. Would you recommend the 64 without machining it for oil squirters then? I wont be driving the car on the street more than a few thousand miles a year, but I have read somewhere that a street driven car would benefit from them. Just dont know how much street driving

@maxroach I am originally from Cali but it is not where I live now, don't like to give too many details away online! my car is dual mapped for 93 and e85. I stuck to 375 tq on 93, and 400tq on e85 before, and I suppose that has let me keep the 6 speed alive for this long. So thank you for reminding me haha that would have been such a stupidly near-sighted thing to do. I guess I would like to keep tq to 400 to maintain longevity of the 6 speed. I appreciate the input! Might trade down to a red then for 450/400.

 

@letsgetthisdone Sorry had a few drinks last night and I don't think I got my point across. It was more, will the 63 head mount to the 69 block so I can still use my intake/exhaust mani's.. I appreciate the insight on the oil squirters. I won't be street driving the car for more than a few thousand miles a year.. I did want to go 2.4LR with the 64 but wasn't sure the extra effort/money was worth it. But I am considering it now. I'll have to see the availability of them around me.

@maxroach I am originally from Cali, but not there now. I don't like to post too much information online. I have a map for 93 and e85, 1450cc injectors and a BR double pumper. As with the transmission, I had totally forgotten. I kept tq around 375 on 93 and 400 on e85. Thanks for reminding me how flimsy it is, that would have been such a stupidly near sighted thing to do! I suppose trading down to an fp red and aiming for 450/400 would be a much more viable/realistic option.

 

I'm not sure what extra effort/money you think is involved. Rods are about the same price. The block might be $100-$200 more. I'm not sure of anyone who has done a 4g69 build, so it may need the same modified water pump.

Oil squirters aren't necessary due to you'll be using forged pistons. The car comes with them because the stock pistons aren't forged.

I would highly recommend sticking to 9:1 compression for pump gas.

 

@letsgetthisgone yea I'm going to source a 64, you've convinced me.. and I will be going forged so I guess the squirters arent entirely necessary. With the 69 you dont need a modified water pump, and youll use the same oil feed adapter as you would on the 64. Also, since the 69 is a mivec engine you wont need to use adjustable cam gears or advance/retard it. I do use 93 more often so I will stick to the 9:1 like you mentioned.. I think I'll settle on 156mm rods, 100mm crank, 86.5mm pistons.. (I want to stay std bore for now) Manley platinum series has some pistons that fits this perfectly at 9.1:1.. would these be a good choice?

EDIT: Just to go back to what you said, I suppose the 69 is pretty stupid to put in if I don't get it machined for oil squirters.. all I would have to do is +modified water pump, +adjust cam gears.. and those 2 extra steps are definitely worth the +6mm deck and stronger (std bore) or the same (0.020 over) strength cylinder walls.. Appreciate you helping me put it into perspective. LR all day btw

 

I wouldn't worry about the weaker cylinder walls. I keep/work on/maintain a friends car with an English Racing 2.4LR and ETS twinscroll 6466 turbo kit. Car makes 800+whp and ~665wtq...LOL.

A feed line is easy for the 4g64. Either have a machine shop machine the oil pressure switch port for the M12 banjo bolt, or use an 1/8" NPT to 6an 90* fitting and run a line, and get the appropriate Banjo to AN fitting for the head side. It's what I plan to do.

 

Yea I am not looking for power anything near that either.. haha

In regards to the oil feed line, I think I will just go for an off shelf conversion that MAP sells. Have you heard anything about it? It's definitely overpriced ($70) but it would save some time and effort. In the grand scheme of everything it doesn't seem like a bad option.

 

I don't spend my money with MAP after a few far less than desirable experiences.

 

Understood, I'll exhaust some other options. Question.. What head gasket sizes would I choose I'm going for 9:1 CR? Calcing CR with pistons and what not has got me a bit confused.. If i pick a piston for 9.1:1 CR do I just find a head gasket with stock thickness? I'm doing my best with some online CR ratio calculators and differing thicknesses.. nothing is adding up. (excuse my ignorance, never thought I'd be doing this when I got the car in 2012 lol)