Punisherofall

we use to place Two, not to dumbass pun roflmao.

mikesevo8

Removing the pill will have different results for different folks.
It may work out well for the guy in SoCal, but for a guy in NY or NJ, it's another thing.

The point I was making was that for $40 or so, you can modify your boost control "safely".
You have already done 80% of the work just getting to the pill.
Adding a MBC doesn't take that much more.
And you will have better control over the boost and can make changes as conditions change.
Sometimes "free" turns out to be very expensive.

BTW, overboosting will not break your engine, unless you consider blowing a
headgasket breaking. To me snapping a rod is breaking.
The weak point is the "stretch to yield" head bolts.

Again, Punisher's point is valid. The advice about tightening your clamps is sound.
It was also the purpose of the thread.
It got a little off track when people started sharing their own free tricks to increasing HP.

This forum is all about the exchange of ideas. This is where I got my "knowledge".
I'm no expert; this is my first turbo car. By searching and reading I was able to
find the good ideas and dismiss the bad.

ArchieBabes

iTrader: (44)

mikesevo8,

Can you recommend a good mbc? Plus when you install a mbc does it require to take out the pill? or leave the pill as it is in the boost solenoid line?


Thanks

mikesevo8

Again, I am no expert as such, but I can tell you what I read and also saw on others cars.
Also you will note from my sig that I went for the "Mercedes" of boost control.
Big difference between $50 and $550.

Anyways, the MBC I have seen is from Hallman. There are others that are just as good.

Search this site for more info before making a choice. There is a ton of it to sift through.

If you go with a MBC, you will be replacing the hose that has the pill anyway.

Shame on us - we are hijacking Punishers thread again.

If you want to get the best advice, go to the Evo Engine,etc. forum and start a
new thread called "Which MBC should I buy ???".
The guys with them will be glad to offer good advice.

Happy motoring...

mitsupwr

just going to put in my 2 cents. mitsubishi has approved the pill removal to correct boost problems. 22-24 pounds of boost was a safe limit according to the evo chasis engineer. he say the ecu will automatically calibrate to the new boost level. i'm not trying to start a tuning war but this is a hard fact from mmna. the solenoid timing is set by engine rpm it will always come on and off according to rpm. there is no such thing as keeping up. i had this evo for almost 3 weeks before the mmna approved repair. and what ever you do donot modify the airflow sensor remove your cat. with a stock fuel system. if the computer does not see these items working to specs it will go into a failsafe which is full rich.

Axis of Evo

iTrader: (3)

Hi All,

I just wanted to post that I checked out my clamps yesterday, and the top tube wasn't particularly loose, but the bottom one was. I tightened them both, and I am surprised, but it does hold boost better and pull harder from 5-7,000. This is verified by my boost guage, my impressions, and my wife's impressions. I'm going to check it out with my GTech too. Thanks for the tip.

Punisherofall

Yes, another success, I am happy for you axisofevo. Mikesevo8 and I seem to be on the same page, just be careful what you do to these engines because it can be costly. On my eclipse when I was young and misinformed I was told to remove part of the honeycomb on the mas when I was in college. At that age I did not care and removed part of the honeycomb expecting a big improvement and instead I got a check engine light. Then my car idle was screwed up. I brought it to mitsu and found out I needed a new mas which in 1992 cos I believe $500 approx. and this was out of my pocket. My point being what sounds like good advice at the time can cause alot of headaches (which mike was pointing out and I agree as well). Just use youre own judgement on your tweaks and accept responsibility if you cause a problem; that being said; I now feel there is enough verification the clamp tightening is effective and safe so I encourage others to do this, you cannot hurt anything doing this unless you strip a clamp at which point you can replace it for 1 or 2 dollars. Do as you wish, but my car is staying stock for now as it pulls hard and gives me an ear to ear grin. Good luck guys, and one more thing; does anyone know where to get better clamps? I am going to check home depot this afternoon, you never know! L8r and stay safe.
Punisher

Evo_doer

I stand corrected, well somewhat I just came back from a mild cruise I do notice an improvement with the Intake clamps snugged down. When I checked them previously I tightened all but one I had this thought on my mind < Geeze like I couldn't sleep without my clamp snug To my chargrin the ride pulls real nice holds boost well.

I should have thought of this clamp check before. I had a 87' GN that would blow off the stock hoses like a cheerleader in a frathouse. After installing aircraft quality clamps and hoses, I never had a problem again. My GN was stock when I fixed the IC problem it went almost 2 seconds faster in the quarter and 15 mph faster Good call!

Punisherofall

Great, yet another success. Which clamp did you not check that was loose? I found many at home depot, but they seemed similar to stock, where would I order aircraft grade clamps or fin them? I am sure with better clamps my fetish of clamp tightening (lmao) would be satisfied. I think it is great that many have found good results with this simple tweak. Now, if we could find another easy fix......
Stay safe,
Punisher

prowler

Goto NAPA and get T-bolt clamps. That will fix your right up.

Oddly enough, I went to Auto-zone, and O'reillys and to my surprise they all did not know what a T-bolt clamp was.

Punisherofall

Ummm, hate to sound stupid but I don't know what t-bolt clamps are either. How are they different from the stock ones? Are they easy to put on? Do they adjust the same? Hmmm, Pun=dated old ****.

Punisherofall

Ok, found out what t-bolt clamps are and they look like the car will break before they will. I may go get these from Napa on monday, but I may also get the home depot clamps ( they range b/t $1.20-2.80 a piece depending on size. Our sizes are 1.60-2.40 I believe. I want to replace all the clamps and therefore may go with t-bolt I am not sure though. Will they fit in tight places like the stock clamp located under the BOV? Can you tell I love clamps? lol. This will be a project for next weekend as rain looks to be in the future for the next 3-4 days (glad we have awd, sucks to have rwd). Anyway, if anyone has any better ideas please post, I am off to watch SNL l8r.
Stay safe,
Punisher

BigBoogieman

I just checked my clamps, and they were a bit loose. I doubt they were leaking much, but they did need snugged up a bit. Also the clamps on that bigass aluminum pipe next to the airbox. I went through and snugged up all the clamps last year when I bought the car, but these had loosened up.

BTW I did post some G-tech HP/torque graphs a while back before & after doing the restrictor pill removal. The only thing removing the restrictor did for me was caused a boost spike around 3500 RPM. It's kind of fun getting that extra kick in the ****, but it's only at 3500 RPM so it doesn't help when you're going through the gears. And it does get a bit high in cold weather. I have my boost alarm set at 1.55 hkPa, and it hits that easily in higher gears when I cross that 3500 mark. I wouldn't recommend removing the pill, but I would definitely recommend going through and tightening all the clamps you can find.

Punisherofall

Can anyone tell me an easy way to get to the intercooler clamps you can see through the grill as well as the lower ic pipe clamps? I am probably going to replace each ic and blow off valve clamp with t-clamps this weekend and be done with it. Any help would be appreciated. BTW, has anyone replaced all of their clamps? What were the results if any, or is it just a waste of time? I also hope t-clamps will fit in the tight locations such as under the bov.
Stay safe,
Punisher

siantjab

iTrader: (2)

Went through and attempted to tighten all of my clamps. Luckily they were all very snug from the factory. Now the IC piping clamps were a little loose; but not enough to cause any serious boost leaks.

I would still recommend this to all evo owners. Whenever you get under the hood, and have some sockets or a wrench handy (10 MM), give all the IC piping and turbo connectors some snugging. Watch some of the plastic parts though, very easy to break!

Thanks for the advice though. Good stuff.