silvrevo

iTrader: (6)

I wish one of the "Tuners" would chime in on this.

I know it has been discussed before, but isnt this what Works and Shiv does, to a certain extent. Only works replaces it with a new hose , and larger Pill.....hey they have to market their stuff different,,, if this is all that needs to be done, then the secert is out, and they cant charge $200-$600 for a ecu reprogram. And yes I know there is more to the flashes than that,, But isnt this the main part?

Also what does Dynoflash think of this removal? Wouldnt it be better than having a MBC, or Ele. boost control sitting in plain sit for Mits. service to deny your warrenty?

So if it true that with a MBC you replacing the pill hose with one that dosnt have a pill, I dont see why this wouldnt work just as well? Just keep an eye on your boost gauge, and wouldnt a Walbro 255 fuel pump help with not getting too lean?

Thanks, and lets have some tuners throw their ideas in here on this. Funny how none have said anything as of yet in this thread?

Thanks

Punisherofall

Yes, I find it interesting as well that no tuners chimed in; I bet out of over 10,000 views at least one looked at this thread. What I find amazing is the amount of people who have had success with their evo's pulling better from 5000 rpm+ from snugging up their clamps (mainly the one below the bov). I thought at first, no way that made such a big difference to my car, but go figure 15-20 others in this thread reported similar successes. Who knows, maybe tuners knew this hose leaked from the factory all along and this was one of their "tweaks" to make the car pull better on the top end. Well whatever, my car pulls better as my bov lower clamp was fairly loose, now I am probably going to replace all hose clamps with t-bolt or aircraft grade clamps for better snugging . The only thing stopping me is if the dealership voided my warrent b/c they were not "factory" clamps, I know that would be ridiculous but you never know. My motto is don't give them ammunition they can use against you.
Stay safe,
Punisher

Punisherofall

One last try guys, does anyone know an easy way to get to the i/c pipe clamps you can see through the front grill? Any advice would be helpful/ I simply want to tighten them up a bit,
thanks,
Punisher

BatEvo

iTrader: (1)

Interesting discovery, ours was loose as well. Something else I noticed, while all the other hose clamps related to the IC hoses and the wastegate were marked with a dab of pinkish red factory inspection paint, that particular clamp was not. Ours took about a turn and a half to tighten it up.

Thanks again to the original poster of this thread for bringing this to our attention.

Rick

silvrevo

iTrader: (6)

O Ya,

I did tighten mine the other day, I think I hit 2-3 bolts on the BOV, all were about a full turn tightened. But my car was TOTALLY cutting out at 4-7,ooo rpms, so I couldn't tell if it did anything or not.

It was my plugs, they were black as NIght. Had them replaced the other day, and YES this did make a BIG difference, above 5,000 my car feels like it dosnt loose any boost. Kinda fricken cool, just like a new car.

I think Im going to look at getting a 1G BOV, arnt they steel and much better than out plastic one? Where can one find one of these at, and how much are they?

Another thing is someone post a picture of A T BOLT!!!! I have no idea what one is or where to buy them at!

I plan on putting some Samco silicon hoses on my IC pipes and would like to use the T clamps. Also can you use the silicon hoses on the BOV?

Thanks!

budlong

iTrader: (2)

bump-tuners opinions on this!!??
shiv, bushur, al.....?????


BUDLoNG

Punisherofall

Hey guys , I am happy I started this thread as well, it always feels good to help others (especially enthusiasts). Well, since no one has an idea on how to easily tighten the clamps showing by the intercooler through the front grill, I gave up. I honestly think I will leave them all stock (saw the red marking on the screws as well). I am keeping the car stock for now and the stock clamps should do fine. I hope more find this thread useful! Clamp on!
Stay safe,
Punisher

BatEvo

iTrader: (1)

This is cool; it really makes a noticeable difference! We had a little flat spot around 4500 to 5000 rpm, now it’s gone! I think somebody over there must have had a little too much sake for lunch and forgot what they were working on when they came back!

I’m with silvrevo on the T clamps; as soon as I can find some I’m replacing these hose clamps. I was lookin’ at a Samco set as well, I think it has the wastegate hoses included but don’t quote me on that.

You know, that’s the thing I like about Americans and our cars, there is always someone in a garage somewhere lookin’ for a way to make something a little bit better, a little bit faster.

Thanks again for sharing this with us man…I think we need to send this guy a case of Coronas!

Rick

P.S. Feels like we have a P2+ now. I looked at the lower clamps as well but can't see any easy way to reach them without removing some portion of the front end.

Punisherofall

Batevo, someone said napa has t-bolt clamps if you need them; good luck man. My car pulls much smoother to redline as well, although I normally shift @6500 rpm. Well, if there were only more easy fixes out there, right......
Punisher

BatEvo

iTrader: (1)

...I'll give them a try, thanks.

Rick

kingsize_glitch

punisherofall i don't understnd this concept...where is the blow off located?

Punisherofall

Ok kingsize, I will reply; the reason you don't understand is judging by your profile you have a ralliart and the ralliart lancers do not have blow off valves, only evos do. I hope that helps ya man.
Punisher

mikesevo8

Can't speak for the others, but Al (DynoFlash) is restricted to commenting only in the DynoFlash forums.

mikesevo8

I think the only access is to remove the underbody panels.
The ones that close in the underside of the engine compartment.

Punisherofall

Thanks Mike, I think that is too much trouble unless I modify the car. It seems that only the 1 clamp made a difference, so now after much deliberation I think the solution is to buy only one extra hose clamp and place it below the one already below the bov to make sure there are no leaks. Does anyone know what the stock blow-off valve looks like off the car; a picture if you can so I can figure out how much room I have to place an extra clamp?
Thanks,
Punisher