mitsuorder

iTrader: (106)

had my front bumper and underskirting off yesterday, checked all of the lower i/c hoses and a few were loose enough to move by hand, replacing them all with t-bolt clamps from NAPA just as I did with my upper i/c hoses, just a nice sense of security with the t-bolts, feel much sturdier when torqing down.

Punisherofall

Mitsuorder, how hard is it to get that skirt off. How do the t-bolt clamps fit in tight spots (good I guess if you did it). Can I use the stock jack to get that skirt off and remove those clamps? How much do you estimate all the t-bolt clamps cost ya $40-50? Also what sizes did you get or did you just take stock off and bring those in. Lastly, can you tell a difference? Being able to move a clamp by hand would suggest to me a possible leak, not good for HP.
Thanks,
Punisher

mitsuorder

iTrader: (106)

Yeah actually I can tell a difference, all through my evo's life even with the new clutch setup, it has stumbled a little bit after clutch engagement, now it doesn't at all, almost makes me want to attempt a launch now, probably won't though, don't really like to do that. I picked up 4 of the 2.5" t-bolt clamps for like $11. So to do the whole i/c piping system all the way to the throttle body you would need these sizes in t-bolt clamps
one 2.75" for throttle body, seven 2.5" clamps for upper and lower i/c couplings, and if you can find them two 2" clamps for the lower couplings that connect the turbo to the i/c piping, I haven't been able to find t-bolt clamps this small yet but have found some reinforced versions of our stock hose clamps which I will be using. According to the prices I have paid at napa you should be looking at paying around $26.25 for all needed clamps including the reinforced regular ones for the 2" coupling to the turbo. The underskirt is a bit of a pain to get off just because there are like 25 or so of those plastic retainer clips holding in place. I'm not 100% but the other day when I had my front bumper off it looked like you might have to pull it off to access some of the lower i/c piping. I suppose you could jack one side of the front up with the stock jack and it would work, personally I went to Wal-Mart and picked up some of those Rhino Ramps, absolutely love them.

Thoe99

iTrader: (25)

Ok, I did a few more hwy runs in some better weather, and here are my results, pulled in 4th gear. Most of the times, I'd get 18.4psi tapered down to 16.9psi at redline (verified with Blitz DTT boost gauge). I guess that's some good holding. Yes, in this cooler weather we just got, the butt dyno tells me its pulling more.

BatEvo

iTrader: (1)

…our local Napa was out of t-clamps but I checked with a local shop that caters to farmers and truckers and they had ‘em.

Rick

mitsuorder

iTrader: (106)

cool, hey a few words of advice, when installing these clamps check for clearance around them before tightening the all the way down, they will fit but you just need to position a few of them correctly, namely the one closest to the hood on the upper i/c coupling, make sure the bolt is on the left side of the pipe closest to the engine, just like the stock position or it will damage the heat shielding on the underside of the hood directly above the piping, this I know from first hand experience Also if you don't position the t-bolt clamps correctly on the lower i/c piping they will not clear the bumper and you will not be able to get it to clip back on properly, the best advice that I can give you is when positioning the clamps that mate the couplings closest to the intercooler make sure that the bolt is positioned underneath or behind the pipe, if it is on the front side of the pipe then the bumper will not seat properly, I know this as well through personal trial and error. The only clamps I did not replace were the two 2" ones that connected the lower i/c piping to the turbo, I tightened them thoroughly and they seemed fine. Hope this is of some help guys, the car feels more sure at take off and I feel better knowing that I have bullet proofed all of my i/c connections. If any of you have any questions about this feel freet to shoot me pm.

BatEvo

iTrader: (1)

...thanks for sharing that info, much appreciated.

Rick

silvrevo

iTrader: (6)

So when you put on a MBC, you will be removing/replacing which hoses? And also how do you get the stock air box out, I removed the 2 screws holding it down, and how do you get the mas and honey comb out?

Thanks

jemm

iTrader: (2)

The loose hose problem affects non evos and the JDM/Euro models as well.

when i got my E7 last year, the IC hoses, bov hoses, and hose to the throttle body were all loose. They were loose on the E6 prior to that..

Its a mitsubishi thing.... and is not confined to the usdm models.

Don't be a lazy person like me, remove your bumper to tighten all the hoses (see pic).

Grod101

iTrader: (7)

no it;s a 10mm for sure... I have to take take the aftermarket bov off everytime I go to the dealer. because they will try and void your warr if they see an aftermarket one in there.... I keep a 10mm socket w/extension in the car w/ stock bov in case anything every happens....

Grod101

iTrader: (7)

you need to learn how to launch the car... what was your 60ft.... I have seen 12.9's on a stock evo....

ChrisS.

It said in his post 1.84 60', but I agree his time could get better, but he said first time in two years. Depends on weather and elevation too.....

denom

Well i'm definitely gonna try this free mod tomorrow. I hope they list this someweher as well.

ChrisS.

I tightened all three clams, they were a little loose. Not sure if it made to much difference though. But its pretty warm here today. BTW, I have my "pill" removed. Has anyone else disconected their boost solinoid? (un clamped two hoses, the ran them looped)

denom

Well I did it. I dunno if I can feel that much of a difference (cause it might be mental on my part). The one bolt I had to partially bend the rubber radiator hose to fit the socket around. It wasn't the hardest job, but I almost felt as if I was gonna break something. I'll see if I notice any changes at the track. Above 5000 rpms it felt a little smoother with the delivery, rather then falling on its face.