Well today i drove my car home from work, about 2 miles, and had it warm up before leaving for about 3 minutes. When i got home i pulled the Fuel Pump relay under the hood, did nothing. Then a pulled the lower of the 3 relays behind the dimmer switch and it died in about 2 seconds.

Replaced the relay and the car still did not start. Which says that all fuel pressure was relieved and there is no way an injector could leak while turned off?

Also this morning when i pulled spark plugs and reinstalled them, the car starting within 2 cranks! So maybe all the residual fuel evaporated if one was leaking the slightest bit? I didnt smell anything strong when i had the plugs out but i think there was a small hint of fuel. So maybe we are onto something with a leaking injector valve.

 

Thanks for update. Relay 3 doesn't cut power to pump, it just short circuits the 8V to give 12V. By pulling it, tou forced it to stay at 8V.
try cranking the engine with relay 2 out to flush the cylinders. Relay 1 works too, which is the 2nd relay above that. Then replace and try starting engine.

 

So you suggest pulling the top relay behind the dimmer and cranking when its out? And what does the underhood one control?

 

It can if it's stuck open or damaged


Also for your test, I think you could also pull the fuel pump fuse.

 

The intake makes the MAF do funny things according to both tuners I've used. If I remember right, it makes it hard to set up scaling...? Anyway, both told it was no bueno, so I ditched it.

OP: If you don't mind driving with a CEL for a few miles, you can always just unplug the crank angle sensor to "shut off" the injectors.

 

Sorry if I've confused you. Both works. Relay 1 is controlled by your key. Relay 2 is controlled by your CAS. Relay 3 is controlled by ECU switching between 8V and 12V.

 

fuse would be easiest.

 

This is the first I've heard about this. My tuner didn't mention any problems. But, I just bought short route uicp and mini battery tray, so once I find a mini battery, I can install for retune.

 

So tomorrow morning i am going to pull the fuel pump fuse to kill the engine after a short test drive and crank it a couple times to rid of the extra fuel in the system. I will see how easy or hard it start after that. I am also going to try tomorrow afternoon on my lunch break, to park the car and use a bar to hold the gas pedal down while im at work to see if it evaporates the excess gas through the intake system. I will let you know tomorrow

 

sounds like a fun experiment. Lol
Make sure to crank with fuse / relay out and WOT.

 

New thread, new problem

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/748925-evo-9-studdered-then-died-crank-no-start-starts-cold-2.html#post11826546
Here is what i am thinking.
The hard start issue for some reason is gone. Cold and hot starts, it is fine. I have no idea with that.

With the engine dying i only have 1 more suggestion which is the crank sensor. When the car is warming up, rpms are good and it sounds pretty healthy. When i unplugged the crank sensor when it was running, it died imendiately with no hesitation. Which is good. When the car is hot and starts dying out, the rpms are freaking out and i can hold the throttle at a steady 1500rpm and the car doesnt like it at all. The rpm gauge is freaking out from 1k to 3k and what not. So since i have no codes and get readings from the crank sensor when its studdering i think it is fine at first. But the crank sensor senses rpm and if it isnt sure where the engine is, wouldnt it change spark and fuel According to rpm?

if it catches a couple seconds of correct rpms it is keeping the engine alive, but then the crank sensor reads incorrectly and makes a mixture that doesnt stay running at idle. Am i crazy or do i need to push the car on train tracks haha

 

Lose the crank sensor and lose fuel. Lose the cam sensor and lose ignition. Its parts cannon or scoping each to see which is failing if either is.