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Weir 12-plate for Evo VIII/IX review & info.

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Old Jun 9, 2018, 12:05 PM
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Weir 12-plate for Evo VIII/IX review & info.

I'm going to post just facts so that readers can form their own opinions:

3/29/16: I made a post on EvoM stating the mileage on my Evo to be 128k.

10/5/16: I have an email asking Weir performance how to order their 12-plate rear diff plates. I was asked to call and order by phone, so I don't have any record of the actual order date. I was going to check my bank records, for the sake of accuracy, but I'd have to order paper copies at a cost, blah blah, so I didn't do it LOL. Since ordering by phone, I have no email nor PayPal record of the purchase.

1/17/17: I post on EvoM, stating that the rear diff plates had arrived. I do remember being in contact with Weir to be sure I gave them my correct shipping address, as it had taken quite a bit longer to receive, than expected. No biggie, as I was in the middle of doing other stuff on the car.

6/4/17: I have FaceBook pictures of my doing the install. Mileage unknown. The install was super straight forward and simple. I used the FSM for the entire process only to be superseded by Weir's instruction. If I remember right the only change to the FSM was the fact that the plates were different in number. I use only OEM Mitusbishi fluids. This is probably the third rear diff I've modified, the other two being re-stacking the OEM plates (which worked awesome, may I add; shoulda left it alone).

The car currently has just under 134k, so you can see I don't drive much LOL. Even assuming I never drove the car after 3/29/16, that's only 6,000 miles. I know for a fact that between 3/29/16 and the install that I drove to Buttonwillow raceway once and did a number of local autox events, plus a couple Cars N Coffees. I'd say the rear diff has about 2,000 miles but, for argument's sake, let's just use the 6,000 mile number since I have no definite number.

This week, I contacted Weir, via email and explained what the car was doing. My intent was to find out if there were any tips or tricks I could use to get things working right. Maybe an error in the instructions, anything to explain the short life span of the differential. I was asked to call, but instead emailed again, so as to have a written record. I wouldn't put it past myself to forget the phone conversation by the time I went to do the repair LOL. I need everything in writing. I let them know that I had threads on EvoM that could somewhat construct a time line of when I ordered, received, and installed the part and they asked for a link to the thread (I forwarded the link via email). He shows no record of my placing an order. That, I can't explain. Maybe it's possible I ordered elsewhere and am mistaken in who it was I talked to?? Anyway, I didn't hear back and emailed again stating that, no matter when or where I bought it, I just want to know what I can do to fix it, as I have an event coming up in two weeks. I'm not placing blame for the failure, at this point. I just want to fix it, if possible. That was on Wednesday, so it's only been a couple of days.

Yesterday, I disconnected the driveline and put one of the rear wheels on the ground, to test preload torque according to advice from an EvoM member. There is zero preload. None. Ziltch. I can spin the wheel by hand. Definitely disappointing. To top it off, I threw away my OEM plates because I'm dumb. Now I'm shopping for a used diff because it's actually my cheapest option.

So, take from this what you will. I don't see myself using another Weir setup, but that's just my preference after this experience. Unless Weir can help me come up with a logical explanation, that is.
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Old Jun 9, 2018, 06:02 PM
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I have no interest in your dispute with Weir. However, this is interesting, you leave out the best part of the story. If it hasn't all been told somewhere else, tell about your experience with a restacked diff and how that differed from the Weir differential and what you felt when the Weir differential went away.
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Old Jun 9, 2018, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by barneyb View Post
I have no interest in your dispute with Weir. However, this is interesting, you leave out the best part of the story. If it hasn't all been told somewhere else, tell about your experience with a restacked diff and how that differed from the Weir differential and what you felt when the Weir differential went away.
This ^^^ 🤔
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Old Jun 9, 2018, 06:32 PM
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No dispute, at this time. Just my experience with the part's longevity ,or lack thereof.
Since it was so far in between events, I have to do my best to remember details related to performance. I did not notice an improvement over the re-stacked OEM diff. That I would remember. In fact, I'm trying to remember if I pushed the car, at all, up until my MRLS day. I'll have to go back and look. I'd like to think I got some use it out it.
I can't really say how performance degraded over time, as I'm not 100% sure the unit worked correctly, from the start. If the car was like ,"whoa! This is awesome!" Then I would have had a solid point of reference.
Again, I'm not complaining, pointing fingers, etc. Just writing about my experience with the plates.
.
Worth mentioning: I felt my OEM diff was starting to do the same thing, so maybe there is something else going on here. And if that's the case, I'd of course make a point to say so when I find out.
That's why I'm hoping to work with Weir and find the problem: maybe we can save someone else from having the same issue.

Cliffnotes: didn't see a difference. A few thousand miles later, I have an open diff.
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Old Jun 10, 2018, 07:56 AM
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It does seem a bit short lived for but anything is possible. I'm not trying to challenge you but showing them a proof of purchase of some kind shows you bought a new kit and not a xxx mile used up one for xx bucks. Sometimes we forget what happened years ago. Just looking at it from their point of view.
Secondly, if your diff was restacked before with over 100K miles its quite possible the disc thickness is less then ideal given the mileage. Did you measure any of the discs that were used ? Places like TRE or a shop will measure everything to insure its going to work properly. Hard to blame their product if measurements haven’t been done. I always like to look at things with an open mind.

It looks like the new 12 plate kits come with 2 new spring plates. I'd presume they did this to maintain proper preload. " Kit now comes with 2 new spring plates for a total of 14 pieces."

I'm not trying to put the blame on you, but just look at all the data. Here are a few links.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...rear-diff.html

http://www.weirperformance.com/maxgriplsdkits.html
Regardless, Hope you get it figured out and back on the track

Last edited by Abacus; Jun 10, 2018 at 08:55 AM.
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Old Jun 10, 2018, 08:49 AM
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My build thread has a picture of the kit when I got it. It's new and in a sealed package, part number and all.
I didn't measure the assembly before installation, as the instructions from Weir state that I drop it in and go. Their site says, "The best part is you can install this kit on a Saturday in your garage and save the expense of shipping your diff and down time" and the instructions only say, "once all screws are tight, check between the cover and casing for any gaps, the two parts should meet together with no gap."
If I should have still measured everything, then that is definitely on me and could definitely explain the failure.
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Old Jun 11, 2018, 12:44 PM
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The parts that are needed to rebuild the differential and set the preload.

LSD Spring Plate (4)
MR195402

LSD Clutch Plate (4)
MB160500

Rear LSD Friction Disc (4) - Two on each side and there are two thicknesses available
MB160497 (1.75)
MB160496 (1.65)

Spacer Set - Differential Gear - Shims
MB241903

Last edited by deylag; Jun 12, 2018 at 01:22 AM.
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Old Jun 11, 2018, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by deylag View Post
The parts that are needed to rebuild the differential and set the preload.

LSD Spring Plate (4)
MR195402

LSD Clutch Plate (4)
MB160500

Rear LSD Friction Disc (4) - Two on each side and they are two thicknesses available
MB160497 (1.75)
MB160496 (1.65)

Spacer Set - Differential Gear - Shims
MB241903
Gracias! I priced it all out, but with only two spring plates = $1,000 . I ended up going aftermarket for $800.
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Old Jun 11, 2018, 12:59 PM
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Very strange. I've used the Weir kit for over 10,000 miles now and have noticed the following behavioral quirks:

1. The locking noise has gone down significantly.
2. It takes a minute or two longer to warm up the cars diff in order to get maximum locking diff action.


I think that for the most consistent and smooth operation coming from a rear diff, you'd probably want to invest in the quaife helical rear diff.

https://shop.quaife.co.uk/quaife-atb...hi-evo-4-5-6-7

Even the TRE 1.5 max lock seems to use a plate style setup that will eventually wear out. With a helical style like the quaife, it should be must more consistent and last longer. It is the most reckless approach on the wallet though...
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Old Jun 11, 2018, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Pal215 View Post
Very strange. I've used the Weir kit for over 10,000 miles now and have noticed the following behavioral quirks:

1. The locking noise has gone down significantly.
2. It takes a minute or two longer to warm up the car in order to get maximum locking diff action.


I think that for the most consistent and smooth operation coming from a rear diff, you'd probably want to invest in the quaife helical rear diff.

https://shop.quaife.co.uk/quaife-atb...hi-evo-4-5-6-7

Even the TRE 1.5 max lock seems to use a plate style setup that will eventually wear out. With a helical style like the quaife, it should be must more consistent and last longer. It is the most reckless approach on the wallet though...
I did consider WaveTrac and Quife both. Since I don't put many miles on the car (and I got it super cheap), I went with a Cusco unit. As long as they sell rebuild kits, I don't mind. Though given my luck they stopped yesterday

I honestly can't explain why the Weir kit didn't work well for me. I'll be pulling it out very soon and will take a look, though. I followed all instruction correctly, but maybe there is something I did wrong, so I'm not putting it on Weir, at all.. despite other threads I've found with similar results.
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Old Jun 11, 2018, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by kaj View Post
I did consider WaveTrac and Quife both. Since I don't put many miles on the car (and I got it super cheap), I went with a Cusco unit. As long as they sell rebuild kits, I don't mind. Though given my luck they stopped yesterday

I honestly can't explain why the Weir kit didn't work well for me. I'll be pulling it out very soon and will take a look, though. I followed all instruction correctly, but maybe there is something I did wrong, so I'm not putting it on Weir, at all.. despite other threads I've found with similar results.
I hearya there. My luck has also given me some totally ironic and highly unlikely bad curve ***** during my build. That probably will continue for as long as we decide to build cool stuff.

We do the best we can to update our cars with the latest technology, but sometimes we just go backwards. Given the Weir design, i'm sure it will wear out on me eventually.
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Old Jun 11, 2018, 03:19 PM
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we were half discussing in the other thread, but I cannot recommend helical in the rear for our cars. at least in autox, way too much rear wheel liftage for it to be effective.
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Old Jun 11, 2018, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by kyoo View Post
we were half discussing in the other thread, but I cannot recommend helical in the rear for our cars. at least in autox, way too much rear wheel liftage for it to be effective.
I was reading about how they worked and was uncertain that I'd be happy with it. For the front, absolutely.. but the rear, maybe not. As you mention: we tripod LOL. I don't auto-x much.. but when I do, I'd still like the rear to lock haha. I have many, many pictures of my inside rear tire being off the ground. On the other hand, If the wheel is in the air, do we care how fast it's spinning? Does it lock as soon as it touches back down? That's all stuff I don't know but wish I did.
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Old Jun 11, 2018, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by kaj View Post
I was reading about how they worked and was uncertain that I'd be happy with it. For the front, absolutely.. but the rear, maybe not. As you mention: we tripod LOL. I don't auto-x much.. but when I do, I'd still like the rear to lock haha. I have many, many pictures of my inside rear tire being off the ground. On the other hand, If the wheel is in the air, do we care how fast it's spinning? Does it lock as soon as it touches back down? That's all stuff I don't know but wish I did.
we do care how fast it's spinning wrt to helical/torsen. it's the same if one wheel were on ice, spin city. i'd say spinning actually would exacerbate it. it shouldn't make TOO much difference because it'll touch down just after you start accelerating and the weight shifts back, but i'd rather have it lock when i start accelerating, not when i start accelerating + wheel touches down with enough weight to restore traction
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Old Jun 11, 2018, 06:18 PM
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I installed the Weir 12 plate a while back on my 9 track car and it was good for a while.
Upon disassembly the driving edges of the plates were pretty beat up.
Sent it off to John at Team Rip for his 12 plate (actually had him give it the full treatment) and 1.5 way. Never looked back.Completely transformed the car and was as good in the 5th season as the Weir was on day one.

Shoe
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