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Forged pistons on stock rods...WHY? and what to do...?

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Old Nov 2, 2018, 12:19 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Biggiesacks
If your goals are sub 500whp I would leave the bottom end alone. That's assuming there aren't any issues with it.
Probably looking at around 440-450whp on a Mustang Dyno after cams. Everything seems to be fine down there (knock on wood).
Old Nov 8, 2018, 04:16 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by schmeevo
Probably looking at around 440-450whp on a Mustang Dyno after cams. Everything seems to be fine down there (knock on wood).
How far are you planning to rev it? ARP rod bolts might be a good safety net. Also, I don't know if those pistons are heavier or lighter than stock.
Old Nov 9, 2018, 06:08 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Pal215
How far are you planning to rev it? ARP rod bolts might be a good safety net. Also, I don't know if those pistons are heavier or lighter than stock.
I revved to 8k on the first tune, but brought it down just a touch to 7800 now. I don't want to push those rod bolts. Previous owner replaced rod bearings, but not rod bolts about 5k miles ago.
Old Nov 12, 2018, 09:36 AM
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I'd say stay around 400 hp with these rods. Actually not a bad combination, long engine life, can run on native fuel.
Old Nov 16, 2018, 05:02 AM
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I thought the factory rods on the EVo 8-9 4G63 were forged from the factory , just like the crank is?
Old Nov 16, 2018, 02:47 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by WRC-LVR
I thought the factory rods on the EVo 8-9 4G63 were forged from the factory , just like the crank is?
all rods are forged.. it is just that they are a bit thin...

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