Jonno99

Guys,

I'm going to pull the engine then take to a machine shop, my plan is for the money I save I might buy some Wiseco 1400 HDs and Manley I beams or Carrello rods. Stuff is not cheap in Australia but I'm only going to do it once if I do it right. Might do the clutch while I am at it.

A few questions
There's some good youtubes on a guy dropping the motor out the bottom, is it easier this way or to pull the motor from top?

I've called a machine shop, and they said bring in the block and they will do the hone and crank and fit the hardware. So I plan to take it to them and they can measure up the bore and decide what size of pistons, rings and bearings and either I order them or get a price and if they can match it, let them order and fit them. As its a reasonable low mileage motor I want to try and use the original crank so let them check that too. Any questions I should ask the shop now or to early and wait till I pull the motor then go back to them to discuss, maybe confirm stuff in email? They gave me a price around 2k to measure up and fit which is about the going price.

Biggiesacks

out the bottom if you have a lift, out the top if you don't. Im sure someone will disagree, and tell you about how easy it is to drop out of the bottom on jacks but I don't see it. While its in the shop its a good time to do main studs, but you will need an align hone to go with it so its up to you if its in the budget.

Jonno99

Yeh, I might get some ARP studs too, I can get an engine lift for 150 bucks and I've seen the guy drop it under on jacks, didn't look easy

Jonno99

These guys seemed to do it reasonably easy out the top in one day

blackline

iTrader: (2)

I've only pulled the engine from the top as it was done in my backyard. Having a friend or 2 to assist with the removal will make things easier. Having the right tools prior to removal is also good(Slide Hammer to pull the inner shaft from the tcase.). I removed the radiator, exhaust manifold and tcase before removing the engine and gearbox as 1 unit.

Take your time to bag and tag the bolts, brackets, labeling connectors, ect. This will make putting it back together smoother.

Jonno99

thanks mate, good advice, did you take the hood off?

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

They come out fairly easy through the top with an ending hoist and a load leveler. Removing the belt driven accessories, water pump pulley, and crank damper from the engine help give a little extra room. Also, remove the driver side mount from trans makes it easier for that to clear the tabs on the chassis.

Pal215

iTrader: (12)

Yup, definitely from above with no lift. Watch the radiator support and wiper cowl on the way up. The engine can bend and break that stuff with ease if you don't keep things under control. Good news is that you don't need to disconnect your AC compressor or power steering pump from the car, just the engine block.

hutch959

iTrader: (18)

"pull motor and take to a machine shop"

what machine shop.

I suggest you spend the money and get it to one of the evo engine builders that have some evo cred

Pal215

iTrader: (12)

You have a good point hutch, but unfortunately those builders will still use a machine shop before they get started. I think the OP should just rebuild it himself and get the learning out of it.

Jonno99

is AU we don't really have the luxury to take our cars to shops specializing in evos, most motor repair places just do everything and say yeh we've done a few evos this year so no big deal, thats how it is for the ones ive talked to so far. I dont want to take it to a tuning place cause they just do the work i can, pull the motor and then send it to a machine shops to do all the work and double charge me, all i can do is keep calling around and talk evos and see how much they know about them

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

It's a Mitsubishi, not a Ferrari. Any knowledgeable shop worth their salt can properly rebuild it. Cracks me up when people get all excited about needing to find an "evo" shop. It's standard iron block/aluminum head 4 cylinder with a timing belt. OP isn't trying to make 800whp where the combo really starts to matter anyways..

blackline

iTrader: (2)

I took it off but I've seen people leave it on. Also, you can unbolt the A/C from the bracket and zip tie it to the side so you don't need to to evacuate it.

3gturbo

iTrader: (4)

Biggie has good advise will take you 8-10 hours the first time to remove engine and trans also make sure you have a slide hammer to remove the shafts.

hutch959

iTrader: (18)

im in Tennessee,... .and there is no way i would let the "local boys" that do the dirt track stuff machine my stuff.

the last evo crank i took to a local "reputable" machine shop to get micro polished. ... when i picked it up they had cut it.... uggghhh.

anyway....
if im spending a ton of money, im not gonna let some shop do it that "should know what they are doing".