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Old Jun 4, 2020 | 12:05 PM
  #46  
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From: Mid-Hudson, NY
Originally Posted by Wheelspk
If u open the log u can see everything...but ill post the knock graph as some dont have the link software installed
Or you can just export as a .csv file
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Old Jun 4, 2020 | 12:19 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Biggiesacks
maybe the ECU was pulling timing? I didn't see a graph of knock.




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Old Jun 4, 2020 | 12:44 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
It's hard to say because your datalog doesn't make sense. If it really is 60psi of boost, that is 100% insanely aggressive on E85, it doesn't have the octane for that. So, if thats true tune could be an issue. Especially with 8* of timing, that timing is slow it could be causing mini misfires on ethanol. But 60psi doesn't make sense for 780whp.
Datalog makes sense because it is reading absolute pressure, which means atmospheric pressure is ~100kpa. Therefore, looks like he is running ~46psi of boost.
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Old Jun 4, 2020 | 12:47 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by 240Z TwinTurbo
Datalog makes sense because it is reading absolute pressure, which means atmospheric pressure is ~100kpa. Therefore, looks like he is running ~46psi of boost.
Kpa to psi converter on google said 60psi.

Actually pressure makes more sense. Timing is still way low. Like about half.
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Old Jun 4, 2020 | 12:54 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by 240Z TwinTurbo
Datalog makes sense because it is reading absolute pressure, which means atmospheric pressure is ~100kpa. Therefore, looks like he is running ~46psi of boost.
You are correct sir, I just conformed it from the tuner i was running 46psi
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Old Jun 4, 2020 | 12:56 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
Kpa to psi converter on google said 60psi.

Actually pressure makes more sense. Timing is still way low. Like about half.

So it cant be aggrasive timeing as you said before...it cant be bad afr so 🤷
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Old Jun 4, 2020 | 01:01 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Wheelspk
So it cant be aggrasive timeing as you said before...it cant be bad afr so 🤷
so....it's all the dirt from the road you sucked in without a filter.
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Old Jun 4, 2020 | 01:12 PM
  #53  
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Not sure what those knock values equate to, but probably a bad trend the way it climbs. Still trying to figure out why I have this software on my laptop.



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Old Jun 4, 2020 | 03:09 PM
  #54  
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I was bored so I tried to figure out what is happening, but definitely something not good occurred at the end of the run and where I have the yellow marker. Also, I searched your inputs for the raw knock sensor voltage, but was unable to find it so perhaps you can let me know what parameter that is and I can pull up on the log. Would need to see the dyno curve, but your peak torque timing occurs about 1K RPM prior to full boost, which may or may not be correct. Before the end of the run the ECU yanks ~5deg of timing based on what appears to be excessive knock, but unclear because I don't know how the knock parameters were setup. Boost starts to break up and then the knock levels go crazy. The problem with the knock sensor parameters is that almost no tuners take the time to set these up because it is a PIA and does take some time. Also, there is a high rpm lockout on the knock sensor status at 7K RPM, whatever that does.



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Old Jun 4, 2020 | 03:41 PM
  #55  
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Do NOT run an engine you care about without an air filter.

Strongly recommend use a Paper element air filter. ALWAYS use an active PCV suction system, I don't care how you do it but get it done.

A well sealed engine + proper pcv system is a critical key to longevity, it is why/how factory engines can achieve 200,000+ miles, it isn't JUST their tight spaces, it is the cleanliness of lubricating fluids.
Engines are not supposed to 'wear' appreciably; any minute debris instantly contaminates other parts and makes an engine rapidly approach garbage, destruction.

Lets look at air for a minute. You can see through it but, guess what? It contains myriad substances. Lets name some easy ones, first. Pollen and Fungus is found everywhere in the world. You can't escape it.
But what is pollen and fungus made of? Well, you should first be aware that pollen is so inert afaik science is still unsure about it's contents. My biology book said that, and If that sounds crazy, hold on.
Pollen and fungus is a living entity. It contains substances that involve life, such as: Iron, magnesium, molybdenum, sulfur, carbon, oxygen, etc... Literally/practically the upper half of our periodic table and many trace minerals sorry "elements" are involved in pollen and fungus.
Repeat that back to me... iron, sulfur, oxygen, wait, metals... and? Yeah, Zinc, selenium, copper, chromium, calcium potassium... its like a god damn multi vitamin floating around in the air.
Your engine does NOT want that **** in it's oil.

So lets take a step back and think about chemistry for a minute. most often in a chemical reaction there is a barrier of sorts... some conditional which needs to be met in the form of ENERGY to proceed.
Well, your combustion chamber is a reaction chamber. Literally it provides HEAT as a form of high-energy which facilitates chemical reactions.
So what do you think happens when you mix a bunch of carbon with alllll those other ingredients together and add heat and pressure... You get: Myriad components. Myriad compounds. You can literally react carbon with almost any of those ingredients to form conglomerates of all manner... some are sticky, gooey, sludge-like, tar-like, call it how you see it. NOT good for an engine. Sinking in yet?
By not running a filter you expose the clean metal and clean oil to myriad conglomerates of sticky reacted primordial self associating goop with endless potential for causing chaos.

And it gets better of course. Dust, what is dust? human cells? Animal cells? We are basically under water. I don't mean to get... um philosophical here, I am being literal. Water and Air are both fluids and act in similar manner within a wide range of engineering applications. Yes they are 'different' but for the purpose of this discussion (air filters... water filters... oil filters... etc) It is the same concept. An engine must be pristinely clean, no matter what fluid it contains or depends on... the mechanical parts ONLY survive because of that purity. An engine spends its life hurtling towards the darkest soup of garbage, that terrible presence of dumpster juice is what eventually awaits them all. The key is, how long? How long until it meets that fate. Until enough of the outside... gets inside... and causes destruction in one way or the other. Well, it depends on how well you filter your fluids, how clean you are when changing them. How careful you are about leaks. If liquid can leak out... liquid can leak in. Sorry, that sounds weird. Lets use the ocean example: you have a huge body of water and sprinkle some salt on one end... how long until the salt can be detected at the other end? It doesn't take long for salts... or anything that size really... to actively diffuse from one end to the other. Likewise, if you can see liquid dripping out of your engine, that is the "other end' of the ocean. Sprinkle some salt on the leak (road debris / regular air / whatever) and it will get inside the engine the same way.

Sorry I rant, I rant, but this is an ongoing issue across all platforms, all forums, all engines. People not using filters... not using pcv... holy **** its serious.
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Old Jun 4, 2020 | 04:21 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by 240Z TwinTurbo
Still trying to figure out why I have this software on my laptop.
do you not like link?

Was this a professional calibration? Can it be posted if it wasnt

Last edited by 211Ratsbud; Jun 4, 2020 at 05:06 PM.
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Old Jun 4, 2020 | 05:06 PM
  #57  
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what does a pcv have to do with keeping dirt out of your engine?

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Old Jun 5, 2020 | 01:59 AM
  #58  
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Okay i got the sheet numbers

My bore size was : 3.347 inches or 85.0139 mm
Ptw was : .0035

Last edited by Wheelspk; Jun 5, 2020 at 03:16 AM.
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Old Jun 5, 2020 | 03:17 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by hutch959
what does a pcv have to do with keeping dirt out of your engine?
Yes that didn't make sense 😕 rest I agree with .
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Old Jun 5, 2020 | 03:19 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
The car wasn't "hardly driven" 4-5k miles. It was driven 4-5k miles, simple as that.

PTW clearance is measured with a micrometer and dial bore gauge. You can't guess.
My bore size was : 3.347 inches or 85.0139 mm
Ptw was : .0035
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