2.2L top end advice
Hi guys,
I’m currently in the process of building an Evo 8 engine. This is mostly « street » and DD oriented engine, I’m not chasing super high tq / hp ## nor rpm.
will be running on 98 gas (euro), mainly street tuned with std ecu / Tephra mod (I’m a bit used to this).
Bottom end is on his way, thanks for all the good inputs I’ve read here !
4g63 block with balance shaft delete
Eagle 94 mm crank
Manley 150 mm rods
Manley 9:1 CR (advertised) pistons (don’t know HG thickness used for compute this, I’ll try to increase by 0.2 if possible).
ARP studs
king bearings with appropriate clearances.
I was looking to the ER underdriven oil pump sprocket to lower oil pressure, mainly because of balance shaft delete. Since I’m not looking for high rpm / hard use, is it still a good thing or is it overkill ?
I’m now looking for advice about building the top end, I plan to use a BB FP red with cast manifold (but still questionable ;-))
for the moment I have GSC +1 mm intake and exhaust valves, new valve guides and ported head.
I planned to get a Kiggly HLA unless It happens to be questionable for this setup, but I don’t think so.
My main question is about camshafts. I’m thinking about GSC S1 or something equivalent, I’m planning staying with something that stays pretty « streetable » and go for GSC 5039 springs and retainers, or 5040 if absolutely needed.
thanks for your inputs, and stay safe ;-)
Alex
I’m currently in the process of building an Evo 8 engine. This is mostly « street » and DD oriented engine, I’m not chasing super high tq / hp ## nor rpm.
will be running on 98 gas (euro), mainly street tuned with std ecu / Tephra mod (I’m a bit used to this).
Bottom end is on his way, thanks for all the good inputs I’ve read here !
4g63 block with balance shaft delete
Eagle 94 mm crank
Manley 150 mm rods
Manley 9:1 CR (advertised) pistons (don’t know HG thickness used for compute this, I’ll try to increase by 0.2 if possible).
ARP studs
king bearings with appropriate clearances.
I was looking to the ER underdriven oil pump sprocket to lower oil pressure, mainly because of balance shaft delete. Since I’m not looking for high rpm / hard use, is it still a good thing or is it overkill ?
I’m now looking for advice about building the top end, I plan to use a BB FP red with cast manifold (but still questionable ;-))
for the moment I have GSC +1 mm intake and exhaust valves, new valve guides and ported head.
I planned to get a Kiggly HLA unless It happens to be questionable for this setup, but I don’t think so.
My main question is about camshafts. I’m thinking about GSC S1 or something equivalent, I’m planning staying with something that stays pretty « streetable » and go for GSC 5039 springs and retainers, or 5040 if absolutely needed.
thanks for your inputs, and stay safe ;-)
Alex
I'd suggest doing an OEM headgasket and standard size valves. The ER gear may be overkill unless you are headed to the road course alot . Your engine will also be run under 8000rpm so the pump will be ok with the stock gear. You can port the oil pressure relief slightly if you want to lower oil pressure. One downside of a big oil pan and the ER gear is that its harder to keep the oil at operating temperature on a street car.
A racefab pan, moroso, or a baffled pan may be beneficial to prevent starvation at some point. The car may end up with a sticky tire, or launched or ...
The HLA is a good idea IMO. The BB red or even a JB red will work well. An 18psi actuator would work well on pump gas, some porting may also lower boost depending on 02 housing. Its a good idea to have a -10 line from the Valve cover, catch can and run it recirculated at moderate power levels.
GSC S2 would be my recommendation also. Idles well and will outperform the S2's.
A racefab pan, moroso, or a baffled pan may be beneficial to prevent starvation at some point. The car may end up with a sticky tire, or launched or ...
The HLA is a good idea IMO. The BB red or even a JB red will work well. An 18psi actuator would work well on pump gas, some porting may also lower boost depending on 02 housing. Its a good idea to have a -10 line from the Valve cover, catch can and run it recirculated at moderate power levels.
GSC S2 would be my recommendation also. Idles well and will outperform the S2's.
First, thanks a lot for the inputs.
the engine will run under 8000 for sure, maybe I’ll even keep max rpm as stock.
I will have a look about porting the relief slightly as you said and try and test with oil pressure gauge.
Honestly I ported and opted for bigger valves because imo the head is not very well « done » from factory. Head and valves seats are not well aligned (at least on my head), reworking valves seats give me a better starting point situation for porting. I know it’s a turbocharged engine, this a habit I have from NA engines where it counts more ...
catch can system will consist in 10 AN lines from valve covers and another (6 AN) line from block (I use the balance shaft inspection hole). Thanks for the Input again.
Looking for the S2’s so, It seems I can run them with the « standard » springs and retainers (GSC 5040 part), am I correct ?
and again, thanks. This forum is a huge source of information for me ;-))
the engine will run under 8000 for sure, maybe I’ll even keep max rpm as stock.
I will have a look about porting the relief slightly as you said and try and test with oil pressure gauge.
Honestly I ported and opted for bigger valves because imo the head is not very well « done » from factory. Head and valves seats are not well aligned (at least on my head), reworking valves seats give me a better starting point situation for porting. I know it’s a turbocharged engine, this a habit I have from NA engines where it counts more ...
catch can system will consist in 10 AN lines from valve covers and another (6 AN) line from block (I use the balance shaft inspection hole). Thanks for the Input again.
Looking for the S2’s so, It seems I can run them with the « standard » springs and retainers (GSC 5040 part), am I correct ?
and again, thanks. This forum is a huge source of information for me ;-))
I run 5041 on my S2s just cause one of the best tuners over here said I should, I'll occasionally push the motor past 8k on the track if I'm in a heated battle so I like the confidence of reliability just in case but for daily 5040 should be fine
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