I know...why wouldn't you, but I have a daily driver here, I do all the work myself (home garage not shop), most of my learning is youtube/forums and I'm in Arkansas so I have nobody I trust to touch my car. I am not going to track my car, I want it to last forever so a safe setup and I'm not going to pull up next to anybody looking to street race. So that being said...I am hoping folks might be willing to unpack for me what all would need to change and the level of effort. This would help me decide if it is a pipe dream or a future upgrade plan.

- My current setup/upgrades are in my signature. I have no plans to rebuild anything on the bottom end of the engine, I don't want to change anything to the stock chassis/trans/diff etc. or break anything there and my target is still bolt-ons. I use a pro etuner that I trust.
- My tuner suggested that my next step would be a FP Green, FP Red or BBK Full.

Questions:
1. With any of the 3, would I have to or should I be replacing the stock exhaust header?
2. Would the stock O2 housing be reused or replaced and will this fit to my existing upgraded downpipe?
3. Do these setups still allow for them fitting behind the stock (or my koyorad) full size radiators?
4. Of the FP Green/Red or BBK Full, what are the opinions on the best one for my goals (ignore price)?
5. Any other parts, gaskets or things I should consider replacing when upgrading the turbo; for example, head studs? Depending on how far I have to go into my engine may dictate my interest in even doing this job.

Thanks for taking the time to help a fellow Evo owner out and for educating me.

 

Your tuner should've been able to answer these questions. I will answer as best as i can, i went to the green myself once.

1. the green and the red you would not need to change the exhaust manifold, uses stock manifold. I am not sure on the BBK full.
2. Green and the red doesn't use MHI housing so no you would have to buy the FP O2 Housing, its on the site.
3. Yes
4. Daily driver any of the above but the green imo would be the much closer to stock, boost comes on quicker than the red.
5. I didn't change anything, other than taking the oil from the oil housing rather than the head like a stock turbo. Journal Bearing.

 

Reading all your requirements, that you don't track and don't do any street racing and only DD and want it to last forever. I'd leave it the same.

 

Personally, I would do a 71 HTA upgrade. Such a great upgrade on the street and "easy" to upgrade to. You literally just upgrade the compressor housing and CHRA and upgrade the outlet and water lines. 11 sec capable if you care about that.

I think it would be perfect for you.

Gary Bains can make a great safe tune for you!

 

For #2 the BBK full was a stock appearing turbo so it should work with a stock manifold. Blouch makes the turbo as the Dominator. Think it's this one: http://www.bptstore.com/Evolution-IX...XT-_p_147.html now.

 

I had a BBK full and it was a damn fun car.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-bbk-full.html

 

I'm going to have to agree with razorlab. That 71 HTA upgrade is awesome for a street car that you want(read need) to be reliable as its your daily.
I have had a green and now a red but if I was starting over, I would have went 71HTA until I knew what I wanted the car to be long term.

And if you don't have headstuds, I would suggest them. Great peace of mind upgrade there.

 

If you are going to AutoX or just want to spend less money the 71 HTA is great.

If you want a wide power band and 500-550whp The FP Red MHI is hard to beat. It makes 20psi by 3800-4200 on a mivec car and goes well to 8000.

1. With any of the 3, would I have to or should I be replacing the stock exhaust header? Stock manifold is fine, If you want to upgrade the FP manifold is nice.
2. Would the stock O2 housing be reused or replaced and will this fit to my existing upgraded downpipe? Unless you are in CA, I would upgrade to a better flowing 02 housing
3. Do these setups still allow for them fitting behind the stock (or my koyorad) full size radiators? Yes
4. Of the FP Green/Red or BBK Full, what are the opinions on the best one for my goals (ignore price)? With a Mivec engine the red makes the most sense to me
5. Any other parts, gaskets or things I should consider replacing when upgrading the turbo; for example, head studs? Depending on how far I have to go into my engine may dictate my interest in even doing this job. I prefer to leave the factory head studs alone since they were all put in at the same time. You also are limited to 400lb ft on the stock rods so you tuner should respect those limits. Now, if you rebuild the engine or the head comes off then ARP are clearly the answer. You may require a larger fuel pump and/or rewire with hi/low voltage setup.

I made 500-530whp (MHI Red) with ID1300's and a single 450 walbro pump on E70-E75 and 90% Injector duty cycle. You may make less with 1200's but even 450-485 whp is a fun and reliable place to be in these cars.