Hello, I’m currently having a shop do pre purchase inspection on an imported Evo IV from Japan, mainly so that compression, crankshaft endplay, and rust can be checked before I decide to purchase the car. (I’ve owned a DSM before and I’m staying far away from a 4g63t with endplay out of spec) But anyway, the main issue with the car is that the clutch is stuck in the up position… I’ll say again, UP. As in, not compressed. It will no go down even when forced. I’ve done cars for many years and I’ve never seen this. My first thought would be something caught in the clutch mechanism before it reaches the trans, worst case scenario, maybe a messed up fork or TOB. But, the shop said it’s that the clutch is bad. Kinda sent red flags because that wouldn’t make sense. A worn clutch wouldn’t cause such an issues (that I’ve ever heard or seen of) so I’m here to ask you guys what you think. This is a new platform for me (sort of) so maybe there’s something im not thinking of.

pressure plate finger springs might be broken and wedged on the TOB? I've had a clutch disk explode to pieces too

That's interesting. I would start by loosening the bleeder on the clutch slave cylinder. See if you can press the clutch pedal down then. This will release the pressure in the line and at least tell you if the master cylinder and clutch pedal assembly are good.

Mine did this, it was the clutch fork breaking loose in the trans. i had to buy a new trans, because the bell housing was not available.

That's a good suggestion. Loosening the bleeder on the clutch slave cylinder can help release any pressure that may be causing the clutch pedal to stay in the up position. By doing this, you can determine if the issue lies within the hydraulic system, such as a malfunctioning master cylinder or a restricted line.

If releasing the pressure allows the clutch pedal to be pressed down, it would indicate that the hydraulic components are functioning properly, but there may be a blockage or restriction in the system. In such cases, further inspection and potential repairs or fluid flushes may be needed to resolve the issue.

However, if the clutch pedal still doesn't move even after relieving the pressure, it could indicate a mechanical problem within the clutch system, such as a damaged fork or throw-out bearing. In such cases, additional examination and repairs would be necessary.

When mine did this, my TOB was broken, mostly likely a trans drop, if you havent alreay do yourself a favor and get a ACT twin disk and a monoloc