Evo 8 starter issues
I had something similar with my setup recently. The crank plate hit something and ****ed it all up so now i went with a Kiggly trigger. Still waiting on my fire up though which pisses me off. its been 3 months and all they need to do is put oil in it, trans fluid in and fluid for the rear end and start thing ****ing thing.
The discoloration is cause there is to much power there. What size wire do you have from the battery to that link both on the main and secondary spots on top? It def looks like the 140 amp is getting way to many amps and its getting warm. I would say for that 4 guage wire or 2 guage wire depending on how far that is away from the battery. If it is less then 13 ft I would stick with 4 guage anything over that is overkill and I would suggest a fuse from battery to there or a braker of some sort. If its longer then 13 ft I would go with the 2 guage. Being our cars aren't that big I am guessing 4 guage wire would be enough to do the job and not overheat that.
Now something to touch on.
Crank walk although possible on an evo 8 or 9 is unlikely. Most of the problems with crank walk was due to design of the thrust bearings in the early 95 -96 7 bolt motors in the early dsm years. Although I have seen problems with crank walk with evos it was due to not using correct thrust bearings in the engine and they eat themselves and yeah crank walk. This is why we use tri metal bearings in our cars. Anything else will not work. Most of the time crankwalk will affect the clutch not the starter, this is why i asked about your dump tube. Mine was basically blowing on my starter causing it to not work sometimes. I fixed that by extending my dump tube past the starter and position it where it will not blow on it at all. So if your car did infact crankwalk I would suggest you find out which thrust bearing failed and contact the engine builder and say hey you ****ed up. If you say well its never been touched I will call bs being to my knowledge, I have never seen an oem motor have this issue, not to say its not possible but highly unlikely.
So back to this fusible link
It looks like you have infact redone some of the wires going to the starter and alternator am I correct? I say this by going off the pic you posted. If so I would change the wires to 4 guage going to the Alternator and 10 guage wire to the starter post should be ok. This should give you proper voltage across everything and less draw when cranking. Make sure as well all your grounds are the same guage as your power wire. That is important as well. Hope that helps some in this for anyone else doing this.
Now something to touch on.
Crank walk although possible on an evo 8 or 9 is unlikely. Most of the problems with crank walk was due to design of the thrust bearings in the early 95 -96 7 bolt motors in the early dsm years. Although I have seen problems with crank walk with evos it was due to not using correct thrust bearings in the engine and they eat themselves and yeah crank walk. This is why we use tri metal bearings in our cars. Anything else will not work. Most of the time crankwalk will affect the clutch not the starter, this is why i asked about your dump tube. Mine was basically blowing on my starter causing it to not work sometimes. I fixed that by extending my dump tube past the starter and position it where it will not blow on it at all. So if your car did infact crankwalk I would suggest you find out which thrust bearing failed and contact the engine builder and say hey you ****ed up. If you say well its never been touched I will call bs being to my knowledge, I have never seen an oem motor have this issue, not to say its not possible but highly unlikely.
So back to this fusible link
It looks like you have infact redone some of the wires going to the starter and alternator am I correct? I say this by going off the pic you posted. If so I would change the wires to 4 guage going to the Alternator and 10 guage wire to the starter post should be ok. This should give you proper voltage across everything and less draw when cranking. Make sure as well all your grounds are the same guage as your power wire. That is important as well. Hope that helps some in this for anyone else doing this.
so mine was a built engine. And unfortunately it did crank walk. Pushed it off the dyno and you could move it back and forth. Dropped the oil pan and thrust bearings were in the pan..
didn’t even put 1,000 miles on the engine. I did have a super agressive clutch and did not disconnect the clutch pedal. So could have been just dumb luck between trying to start it all the time and it just finally failed or could have been a bad build. Not sure.
correct. I did not… I had a qm 8 leg.. but I always had a starting issue with the car from 0miles to when it finally failed. But it is what it is. I always had an idea it was Crankwalk but didn’t want to believe it.. when the car would run I would push the clutch in and the rpm would drop and almost want to cut off.. always thought most likely it was tube bc car was on base map only..
finally took it on the dyno and managed to do 4pulls and it was done. Cut off and we couldn’t get it started.. when we did with brake clean oil pressure was 6psi.. pushed it off and took it home.. dropped the pan and both thrust bearings was in the oil pan..
so mine was a built engine. And unfortunately it did crank walk. Pushed it off the dyno and you could move it back and forth. Dropped the oil pan and thrust bearings were in the pan..
didn’t even put 1,000 miles on the engine. I did have a super agressive clutch and did not disconnect the clutch pedal. So could have been just dumb luck between trying to start it all the time and it just finally failed or could have been a bad build. Not sure.
didn’t even put 1,000 miles on the engine. I did have a super agressive clutch and did not disconnect the clutch pedal. So could have been just dumb luck between trying to start it all the time and it just finally failed or could have been a bad build. Not sure.
I hope you took it back and said fix it. Really sorry to hear that man that totally sucks. Was it a reputable shop who built the engine or was it someone who just builds engines? Hopefully they rebuilt it with proper stuff this time around and if it fails again I'd throw that **** through their window lol.
bought a 06Mr with a stock block and a built head from English. Fp black and done. Although I am having issues now with the fp leaking oil at the housing lol
I dont have 500hp but I keep losing engines 
3x boucing on the revlimiter. I did lose 1 during the break-in drive. the engine locked up at the crank but its salvageable. I still paid for the redo(i installed at home). just glad eagle 94mm cranks are in stock. I dont know exactly what happened but it was showing bits in the oil during initial idle but humans(we, not just the builder) dont really want to pull out at that point. I'm not sure why this seem common. after that the car blew the radiator and showing sign of head gasket leak. had to shell out for that redo also. evo life sucks. i've used several reputable builders. I just pay up and I just hope they learned something. I might get a backup engine and that would be the last ( i think)
3x boucing on the revlimiter. I did lose 1 during the break-in drive. the engine locked up at the crank but its salvageable. I still paid for the redo(i installed at home). just glad eagle 94mm cranks are in stock. I dont know exactly what happened but it was showing bits in the oil during initial idle but humans(we, not just the builder) dont really want to pull out at that point. I'm not sure why this seem common. after that the car blew the radiator and showing sign of head gasket leak. had to shell out for that redo also. evo life sucks. i've used several reputable builders. I just pay up and I just hope they learned something. I might get a backup engine and that would be the last ( i think)
I dont have 500hp but I keep losing engines 3x boucing on the revlimiter. I did lose 1 during the break-in drive. the engine locked up at the crank but its salvageable. I still paid for the redo(i installed at home). just glad eagle 94mm cranks are in stock. I dont know exactly what happened but it was showing bits in the oil during initial idle but humans(we, not just the builder) dont really want to pull out at that point. I'm not sure why this seem common. after that the car blew the radiator and showing sign of head gasket leak. had to shell out for that redo also. evo life sucks. i've used several reputable builders. I just pay up and I just hope they learned something. I might get a backup engine and that would be the last ( i think)
3x boucing on the revlimiter. I did lose 1 during the break-in drive. the engine locked up at the crank but its salvageable. I still paid for the redo(i installed at home). just glad eagle 94mm cranks are in stock. I dont know exactly what happened but it was showing bits in the oil during initial idle but humans(we, not just the builder) dont really want to pull out at that point. I'm not sure why this seem common. after that the car blew the radiator and showing sign of head gasket leak. had to shell out for that redo also. evo life sucks. i've used several reputable builders. I just pay up and I just hope they learned something. I might get a backup engine and that would be the last ( i think)
Reason I ask is my starter is making God awful scraping/screeching sound when it starts up and just continues while the car is running. I'm hoping it's just the starter and NOT crank walk as there's really no other symptoms currently. New starter coming this week hopefully.
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Joined: Apr 2011
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From: WI
Damn man - I see that you parted ways with it but I'm sorry to hear that.
Reason I ask is my starter is making God awful scraping/screeching sound when it starts up and just continues while the car is running. I'm hoping it's just the starter and NOT crank walk as there's really no other symptoms currently. New starter coming this week hopefully.
Reason I ask is my starter is making God awful scraping/screeching sound when it starts up and just continues while the car is running. I'm hoping it's just the starter and NOT crank walk as there's really no other symptoms currently. New starter coming this week hopefully.
Vicious has a good idea too, check the relay.
Funny thing is I put 2 of my starters together (original one that ground the flywheel, the newly remanned one that failed in 2 months) and it actually started without grinding lol. Albeit, there was a slight little hiccup it seemed at start up, but fired every time.
I just got an AC Delco remanned one and it's as smooth as butter. I just hope I can become sane again after all of this.
I just got an AC Delco remanned one and it's as smooth as butter. I just hope I can become sane again after all of this.
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