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Anybody useing water injection?

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Old Apr 22, 2004 | 12:26 AM
  #16  
1QWKEVO's Avatar
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From: Turkey Town (Gobble-Gobble)
my mentioning of propane was not to be used with alky or water... it is to be use by itself as a form of cooling for the cylinder charge when it ignites.. something like what nitrous does for turbo'd cars only with a few different properties, check out the link
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Old Apr 22, 2004 | 01:15 AM
  #17  
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You are all right so far, but the reason for using water injection is not to cool the air intake at all, you would get very little cooling as the water would be at atmospheric themps anyway. The reason for using water over EVERYTHING else (read on and you will see why I said that) is that it has a HUGE specific heat capacity no mater what state it is in! This means that it takes a s**t load of energy to heat a little bit of water up (4200j/ltr/K to be precise). Now although this will provide some cooling effect for the intake, the main advantage is that when the air and fuel are in the cylinders and they start to burn you can get a phenomena call detonation occurring (aka pinking, pre ignition, etc, etc). This is when, as the fuel is in the burn, you will get a sudden overpressures or detonations. These overpressures can lead to component failure due to pressures of more than double what is normal in the burn cycle. It also disturbs the gasses that line the cylinders and pistons that act like a cushion. The water acts as an energy buffer, so when these overpressures start the water can absorb them (pressure=energy=heat and water has a high heat capacity), thus giving you a nice, clean burn with no detonation.
Now many of the manufactures say that you get “in cylinder cooling” with water injection and I think this is where many people get confused. This dose not mean the inlet air is cooled, it means that components, such as valves and pistons, are cooled. This in itself reduces the chance of detonation occurring as these are the areas in which detonation is started. Many engine builders will tell you that they have had to run the engine richer to “make it safe”. This just means that they are using the fuel to cool these components instead of water.
You don’t get any more power from running water injection, but it dose enable you to run the engine a little harder. Normally this means turning the boost up a bit. This will give a little more power. But the best way is to advance the timing. This will give you a more responsive engine on and off boost and better spool up/reduce lag. It will also give you more power and is what is done on race N/A cars that are running WI.
I think that that is every thing. If I have missed something then just say. I will try and find a really useful link to a site that tells all the above in much more detail.

Thanks Chris!
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Old Apr 22, 2004 | 05:26 AM
  #18  
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From: Yuma AZ
Gunzo: Yes that is my advance, I realize it's pretty low. I've data logged it and so did big AL when he flashed me.
I guess it's a combo of the 91 oct **** gas I get here, and the mods to my car.
This is exactly why I want to look into WI, so I can have more advance.
chuntington101:
There is a cooling effect to the intake air. It comes from evaporational cooling. It doesn't matter that the water is warm or not. Just like your sweat (which is 98deg) when it evaporates it absorbs the surrounding heat. The cylinder cooling is the main benifit though, along with a side beni of steam cleaning your valves, etc.
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Old Apr 24, 2004 | 04:10 AM
  #19  
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bishiboy,

Are you plannng to drop the boost of change map when the water runs out? If you have a way to overcome this grey area effectively, WI will be a truely viable tuning alternative over dumping fuel and detonation control.

A more acceptable band-aid for the masses? (Not a negative comment)
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Old Apr 24, 2004 | 07:59 AM
  #20  
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From: Bellevue. WA
here are some points from the utec install guide:
(just happened to have sent this info to Aquamist so he could better define which system for the evo.)


3. Knock Count Threshold sets the number of Knock Counts required
to retard ignition timing. Normally this should be kept a low number to
quickly catch any knock.
4. Knock Retard Step is the number of degrees the UTEC will retard
ignition timing for each crank cycle that the Knock Count is greater than
the Knock Count Threshold.
5. Knock Maximum Retard is the maximum amount of degrees the
UTEC will retard ignition timing.
6. Knock Retard Duration is the number of crank cycles the UTEC will
retard ignition timing for each knock count.
7. Coolant Correction Set point is the Engine Coolant Temperature at
which, if exceeded will result in Fuel Correction and Timing Correction
factors being applied to all load points in the fuel and timing maps. Use
this to increase fuelling and/or to slightly retard ignition timing as ECT
increases to reduce the risk of heat induced detonation.
8. Air Temp. Correction Set point is the Intake Air Temperature at
which, if exceeded, will result in Fuel Correction and Timing Correction
factors being applied to all load points in the fuel and timing maps. You
can use this to automatically increase fuelling and/or retard ignition
timing as Intake Air Temperature increases. The extra fuel or timing
retard may reduce the risk of heat-induced detonation.
9. Fuel Correction is the % increase in fuelling that will happen if
either the ECT OR IAT limits are exceeded.
10. Timing Correction is the # of degrees retard that will happen if either
the ECT OR IAT limits are exceeded.
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Old Apr 24, 2004 | 08:08 AM
  #21  
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From: Bellevue. WA
and if you are not considering the utec (but are going to tune too)
Aquamist has a fancy system with failsafes.

"If all above is difficult to impliment, I suggest using the 2d WI with DDS2
to a cut boost during faulty conditions." (Perhaps a priming pump to double
the flow capacity of the aquamist system. I want oyu to have a complete
system that has all the safety features.)

hope he doesn't mind I copied a part of an email....
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Old May 1, 2004 | 10:42 AM
  #22  
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From: Bellevue. WA
Well, I have ordered a water injection system. I hope I am right about it being the best route to better afr and maintaining timing.

For those of you working with Flashes, you should be able to get a tune with water injection, and if there is a problem with the water system, Aquamist has systems that will cut boost and add fuel. So you don't need to have an aftermaket ecu or emu for failsafes. I don't know if any of the tuners are willing to tune with water though.
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Old May 1, 2004 | 04:53 PM
  #23  
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From: Yuma AZ
I've been checking out propane injection too. Just the fact of driving around with a bomb in the trunk doesn't sit well, but many grandnational guys are running it, not to mention all the diesels.
http://www.dynamicracing.com/custome...&cat=34&page=1
http://www.importpoweronline.com/propane.html
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Old May 1, 2004 | 05:35 PM
  #24  
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From: Effort
Originally Posted by EvolvedfromaWRX
Far more better...awesome statement LOL

try the wrxtuner kit...same as evotuner... at less than 350bucks...its a good bang for ur buck setup.
Hahahahaha. Im urinating myself.
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