I have the following mods:
3" Turboback exhaust w/ Catco hi-flow converter
Open-air K&N filter
Dejontool Intake pipe
TurboXS Type Ultra BOV (H34 mode)
a few silicone hoses
Walbro 255 fuel pump

My main questions consists basicly of the black smoke I get in-between shifts. My girlfriend followed me yesterday and said I get a decent amount of black smoke coming out of the tailipe in-between shifts. I understand the EVO runs pig rich stock, although my question is how do I fix this?

I understand that I do not have a MBC or any air/fuel control, I am sure this is where the problem is, although I wonder if it is possible I may need a AFPR or something to tune the Walbro 255, as it may be overrunning the stock regulator.

Thanks for all of your help!

 

do you have your BOV recirculating back to the intake, or venting to the atmosphere? If it's VTA, that could be the problem as you're releasing metered air. If it's recirc. then you probably just need some sort of fuel/ignition timing control.

 

Yes it is recirc. What kind of control do you recommend?

 

Adding in a walbro will not overdrive your FPR. This pump will cause the car to run richer causing you to loose some power up top. Commonly 10-15whp in the higher rpm's. I would recommend getting some sort of fuel mangement.

 

Alright what is the best way to go for management?

 

depends on what you want out of your car in the long run. if you have plans for big power, save up for a stand alone, otherwise you'll end up spending money on things more than once. if not, emanage does a good job at handling bolt-ons, and even cams. if you want a stealth type fix, a ecu reflash is a good option. if you decide to go with the emanage, i have a used one for sale for a decent price. pm me or email me, you can find my email address in my profile. good luck

 

I would prefer the ECU flash...who is the best tuner for this, and what should I expect to pay, any websites?

 

there are several flashes.
www.worksrally.com
www.vishnutuning.com
www.dynoflash.com
www.buschurracing.com

those are probably the four most popular

 

would an AFPR help the problem until I want to void the warranty with a piggyback or other system?

 

any alteration to the fuel delivery system is going to void your warranty, whether be a SAFC, AFR, e-manage, or whatever else. The only thing they wouldn't be able to detect is a reflash. the only problem with a flash is you have to get it updated everytime you add a new mod which can become as expensive as just buying a retuneable piggy back system in the first place. but yes, an AFR would help the problem.

 

so even adding the walbro voids my fuel system warranty?

 

u forgot turbotrix.com ... they are now the ECU Flashing Domintating Gurus

 

Get a an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Your larger fuel pump will give a slight rise in fuel presssure, meaning your mixture will be running slightly rich. With the regulator you can turn it down to lessen the feed to your injectors, leaning it out slightly to stop the over fuelling.

 

My advice is at your level of mods you don't need the upgraded fuel pump. Its will just cause you to buy more mods (which is fun and all) to use it without running rich.
my .02 pennys!

 

Lancershop recommended the fuel pump as one of the first mods...it is cheap insurance!

My car doesn't sit there and idle all that bad and it doesn't smoke at idle either, I know the fuel pump is part of the problem...but the stock regulator can handle the excess it sends to the rail. Would a SAFC be the best way to go here? I'm sure it would pickup performance, although firstly I want to solve these richness problem...I like to do mods for driavability as a top concern. Any modification that makes you work harder to drive the car shouldn't be a mod at that point. THE ECU flash would be nice, but I'm unsure a mail-order flash is the best route for me!

As for the AFPR what should stock idle pressure be at? What would I want to avoid? Any tips if I choose to go this path?