Rick (da4banga),

Thanks for the truly great things you said about us. Yes, I get a little rough once in awhile on here, just the way I am. We really try, as you said, to do all this stuff right and keep our guys happy. I appreciate what you said. BTW, give me a call or drop me a PM, I need to talk with you about your car.

We are going to fix both of these engines from what it looked like earlier today. It is shame that they both blew up, it was totally avoidable, totally.

This is all I can say about it as I have promised not to talk about anything else. If these guys wish to keep it all quiet it is their choice and we all will have to respect it.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

Can a moderator delete evo8power's post? Thanks.

I just got back from U-Haul and got my car trailor. I'll be off to Wakeman tomorrow morning.

I'll answer all your PMs later tonight



DELETED.

Speedlimit...

 

Ok, thanks for all the PMs guys, I will be posting sometime when I'm free a list of tuning do's and don't for roadracing. I want those of you who roadrace and autocross to avoid the mistakes I made. I'm not going to blame my tuner, or point fingers, or get involved in an internet jousting match. I made a lot of phone calls to a lot of different tuners and experts, including the chief AEM EMS engineer. So, I have a lot of important information that you should take and use to be save yourself from this tremendously costly and time consuming mistake.

Thanks to everyone who has offered me help and suggestions.

I have resolved any and all disputes with my tuner, and wouldn't point the finger directly at him. It was my fault as much as anyone.

And finally, I'm really tired of all the "internet jousting." Frankly, if you can help with technical information or good suggestions/commentary, stay off the forums. If you like your tuner/mechanic, great, stick with him, you don't have to pump it down everyones throat. And if you have trouble with your car, you will get much farther by being polite and trying to get a situation solved without pointing fingers and screaming.

Thanks for the help guys, especially
David Buschur
Jarrod
Adam @ Z1

 

hey dude just saw this ebay auction http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2485151590&catego ry=43919 and remembered reading this thread. Sorry to hear what happened and good luck to you!

 

Whew, just got back! 12 Hours on the road.

I have got a lot of PMs, many who don't want to repeat this situation. I don't have time to respond to all of them, I will be typing up a checklist of things you should watch/advise/do if you plan on doing anything other than dragracing/daily driving.

 

I had about 30 people PM me asking how they could avoid such a catastrophe, and what went wrong. Well, I summed everything up in a really long post. I talked to everyone, including the engineer for the AEM EMS.

Here you go!
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=91203

 

I'm glad you went to Buschur Racing! I live 2,000 miles away and they keep my car rocking! Sorry about the problem with your motor. (and join the club).

 

Wow, I just got off with David Buschur. I can't even tell you what it's like dealing with these guys, they bend over backwards! I may be back autocrossing in time for my next local event. Things weren't to bad with the expolision. My head gasket was perfect, crack was perfect and block was good. But, my #1 piston broke enough to send pieces into the head, so David is going to polish and do a light port to correct this. All in all, for as bad as things have been, I couldn't ask for more.

 

If you broke a piston, make sure you check out the condition of the cylinder walls. From what I can gather, you broke it due to detonation? If thats the case, I would highly recommend replacing rod bearings, and mains. If you are running stock rods, have them rebuilt, and if aftermarket, the same, as well as replacing the wrist pin bushing. All of that stuff got beat when you ran with detonation, so it would be smart to replace it all and measure it. Also, you should pull all of the plugs on the block and head, disassemble it and flush the entire block and passages if you had chewed up metal bits in the oil. And throw away your oil cooler and get a new one.

 

darkhorse is spot on as usual.

 

The engine is getting completely disassembled broken down with new everything. David said the block and crank were both in excellent condition, something he was worried about. The only damage that was bad was when the number 2 piston broke, the pieces hit the cylinder head. But the damage wasn't severe, he is going to redo the head with their Stage 2 package. But, the oil cooler part is worth noting, I will check into that.

JD

 

I agree with Darkhorse. However, I might take heat for saying this but depending on how expensive the factory oil cooler is you might want to consider having it flushed by an FAA certified rebuild facility such as Pacific Oil Cooler out in LA. I spun a bearing on a old 911 I had. The oil was "bearing soup". Since a new replacement for the engine mounted oil cooler was so pricey I decided to have the original flushed and inspected for a fraction of the cost of a new one. It worked out great. I figure if it's good enough to put in an aircraft, it's good enough for my motor. Now if the factory oil cooler is cheap or if you can find a larger aftermarket, I'd go new instead.

 

I just talked to David again, and asked about the oil cooler. He said there wasn't a piece of metal in the oilpan, nor anywhere else. He said the chunk of metal from my #2 went out the head, and also trashed the valves in the process. The bearings were also good. So, he said there was no reason to replace the oilcooler.

But, the list so far:
BR Stage 3 Engine
BR Stage 2 Head
All new gaskets
ARP Hardware
All new belts
Kevlar Timing belt

 

good to know buschur racing is taking care of you

 

You were the one that said that when you looked at the oil, there was metal flakes in it. Its always been my experience that you grenade a motor, and grind up some of the guts, it makes its way into every crevice of the motor, and loves to hide out in the cooler, even after you "Flush" it out. You will go and put the motor back together, and whatever you couldnt get out, will work its way out and bury itself in all the new bearings, oil passages, etc. But if the cooler is OK, and clean of every bit of debris, as well as the rest of every part of the motor, than you shoudl be fine. I just dont see how you could be so sure with something like an oil cooler, that you cant take apart and inspect and really wash out.

good to know Buschur racing is taking care of you