is the main reason why tomei, piper and jun required valvesprings and ti retainers ,not because of the duration but because the lift , since most of those 3 have a 11.5mm lift give and take a few .

 

OK guys - here's my thread with some real numbers for Evo cams.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=86242

 

If you want gobs of torque ,go with 264,264

I went this way because most street races are won with torque..

264 272 is a good combo also but I wanted all torque..

After I put the cams in there was a HUGE difference in power more then any mod...Press the gas in a turn and the car losses grip and spins.... Now I could spin the tires for about 1 sec with the cams from a stop

 

there is a thread on here (or maybe eninge section) that has all the dimentions etc on all the popular cams for the EVO. try shearching for it as its interesting to see the lift at 50thou (1mm. when the air strats to flow) of HKS's compard to others.

i would say go for Piper's Ultimate road or even Rally cams. these work very well on both stock and modded (ie bigger turboed) EVOs.

JUN and Tomei are also good and much better than HKS.

just my thoughts, but when you apply some of the theory you can see why the HKS's wouldn't perform as well as the others.

thanks Chris.

EDIT: SHEET. sorry i didn't see that someone had already put a link to the thread.

 

Happy with the HKS 264/272 set-up

Looking back, I think I would choose Piper's Rally cams and change the springs, retainers, etc....

 

Again, the HKS cams, both 264 and 272, can be installed without the need to change any other
valvetrain parts.

Going with ARP head studs has more to do with keeping your head gasket intact when you turn the
boost up. If you are going to stay below, say, 21psi, then the studs aren't necessary.
But they are still worth the piece of mind for the price.

 

Yes, HKS doesnt say on their site about upgrading valvetrain. With the HKS i would not worry about valvetrain unless you are planning on moving your redline higher up. I have yet to get cams, but they will be in there eventually. I am planning on going with the HKS 272/272 setup. Maybe when the backorder/ everyone wanting them goes away I will be able to ****** a set up.

 

If I'm not planning on putting in a bigger turbo, and not planning on running over 20psi.... Which cams would be the best alternative for me? I know most require a huge amount of dyno testing and tuning right?
Since I have the P2 from works already, if I bought their 269 cams, I would get a free optimal ECU reflash to go with them. Therefore, I would not have to pay for extra dyno time/tuning. I think that is a major plus!
Thoughts?

 

If you don't want to run any tunable on the fly stuff which isn't a bad thing and stay with the brain flash honeslty I would stay with works since you already have the p2. Granted you pay extra for their stuff but you and I know it is tested to last. They are a great company and they back their stuff with no doubt. If you are planning to change things around and go for a high hp application that you want to tune yourself I would choose others. I am doing the combo this weekend 264in and 272 ex for great idle and more torque than straight 272s on bottom and more hp on top that straight 264's. Basically trying to get the best of both worlds. I also plan to go to a bigger turbo and I tune my car myself so this was my reason.

Companys like Works and Buschur that create staged componets seem to work better if you stay in line with their upgrades becuase of the vast amount of testing they do.

 

Uhm... isn't this kinda dangerous? I like higher torque, but I don't want to have any spin-outs!

 

On there website they (and I quote) "Highly recommend" upgraded valve springs and retainers. As I agreed before your post, they aren't required but are recommended.

No need to be an A$$

 

Yea, that recommendation appears under the general camshaft category, and applies to all applications listed.
They also state that it is required for certain apps.

However, the Evo already comes with some faily slick valvetrain pieces, compared to, say, the average 2g eclipse
sombody wants to upgrade.

That's why, in the case of the Evo, with the HKS cams you are safe using the stock components.
A least I hope so, for my own sake.

BTW (and I am for sure no expert), from what I have read while researching for my cams, total lift is only one
component of the cam profile.

A higher lift cam may require different springs because of binding issues.

Cams with faster lift profiles ( the number of degrees it takes for the valve to go from closed to full lift)
cause the valves to open and close faster at a given RPM.
These may require stronger springs to suppress "bounce" as the valve slams against the seat.

 

With more power = Less control of the car,you will have to reset mental limits of you car from stock,more careful....

Main thing is get used to the new power and you will be ok , you wont be able to put full power to the ground on a turn with any cam gear set I believe.. "careful on the canyons " they add between 20-30 hp on already powerful car...Also while your there do the ARP head studs and cycle torque them.... wait 15-30 minutes between each torque session a total of 5-6 times...that will make sure all your head studs are torque' properly...

this is just my opinion but I did notice one head stud needed to be retorque about the 3rd time so they do move .............

 

Does HKS even have valvesprings and retainers for the Evo? I don't see them listed with HKS for the EVO8. They've got the earlier gen 4g63, but they don't fit the Evo and has been verified by a few members that they do infact don't work. Kinda odd for a company to not offer them if it were absolutely neccessary don't you think?

 

I wasn't aware that the HKS upgraded spring/retainer set didn't work. I know that Buschur offers a great set for a good price.

http://www.buschurracing.com/cgi-bin....cgi?25X376545