i think ur dyno run is wrong u got too many mods a stock evo runs about 220hp on a mustang dyno

 

Good points, which is why I like to use Dyno jets for comaprsions as they all read very closely. Also - it is why i am more interested in the shape of the dyno plot than the actual number - for the reasons I ahve set forth above.

 

My mods are basically the same.
HKS Filter
EBC (set to 21 tapers to about 20)
Megan Dp
Megan HFC
HKS Carbon Ti (2.5" piping)
Greddy Bov
Walbro Fp (Except mine is still sitting on my work bench)

No ecu tuning as of yet (missed Al's trip to cali due to lack of funds)
I put down a ok 262hp and 247tq on a mustang dyno.

So there is something wrong with your flash. May be timing being pulled, or a/f ratio just out of wack, either way i'm sure Al can ealsy adjust it.

 

*edited*

 

Make sure the weight they put in is correct and all settings. They had mine set wrong and my first pull was 192whp and i just about went nutz, then they made a few calls changed the settings and got it all right. Then the next pull, my car which had full 3inch, cat delete, air intake, boost cont. and flash it put down 289whp and 318 ftlbs on the mustang dyno. Make sure that stuff was correct before you go and make some wrong assumptions.

 

See...^ that sounds like what I've heard with those mods on a mustang

 

Like I said in my previous post. Mustangs read lower...about 18-20% lower from what I've been told be Mustang dyno owners. If that is the case then your car is making around 340 whp and that is impossible with your mods.

I had the correct weight of my car on a Mustang Dyno with intake, downpipe, and cat back and put down 233 whp. That being said, my car was making about 260-270 to the wheels which sounds about right for those mods if my car was making the normal 230-240 whp stock. There is no why your car with a mbc and a flash was making that much more HP over my car when I just had those three mods.

Mustang Dyno's can be manipulated to read whatever the owner wants them to read. That being said, unless you know your cars weight and see the weight imputted in the computer then more than likely it is wrong.

Just like my example of the STI with the Injen CAI. There is no way that car is making that much power period.....on any dyno for that matter. 294 whp on a basically stock car with a intake and no tunning will not yeild those kind of numbers whatsoever.

Just for the hell of it, I'm gonna go to the same dyno as the STI, put 3250 lbs as the weight with me in it (just like the STI) and see what I put down. With my mods, my car should be sitting at 320-330 whp on a DynoJet. If a Mustang does read about 18-20% lower then my car should put down about 270-280.

Mods are HKS racing suction intake, HKS downpipe, Perrin cat delete, HKS carbon-ti, HKS 264 cams, Walbro 255, MBC set to 21 psi, Exedy twin disk, and a custom DynoFlash.

 

It is for exactly these reasons that I have to discredit these kind of claims about my product being made on Mustang dynos - especially where there is no dyno sheet being produced to back up the claims (for what ever reason). Whike regretable that these kind of threads are being made, it is somewhat a silver lining that at least a few of the readers like this one see the point I am trying to make about the ease with which Mustang dynos can be manipulated.

 

Guys, I don’t have time to post right now but I would like to stress the fact the Dyno mustangs can read soooo high if they were calibrated wrong or in a different way. Usually Dyno mustangs that are calibrated right read a hair higher than DD which is the lowest. Dyno mustang is great dyno for tuning but not for numbers. Usually a stock EVO puts 190 to 200WHP on a dyno mustang. Whoever is making 340 on dyno mustang from basic mods and bolt ons here and there is not spouse to make 340 or even be close to it as this will translate in 400WHP on dyno jet (pump gas) which no one reached before. You have TBE + Fuel pump and MBC that should put you in the 275~290 on a dyno jet so i believe that your numbers are ok but a dyno tune can improve and make you gain couple WHP.

Good luck and don’t worry too much.

 

i refuse to believe with adding mods he got slower... the jet had to be messed up that day or something. lets say mitsu boasted 270 and we are actually 230 or 240, with those mods and al's flash he should of easily been at 280 or 290. i am close to the same with mods, and have al's flash, i went from a 13.3 1/4 to a 12.4. somewhere somebody messed up, and i'll put my money on it not being al

 

ok.

 

Here's a comparison of your mods to mine

----------YOURS-------------------MINE-----------------------------S.E.
255 LP Fuel pump---------------255 LP Fuel pump-------------255 LPH Fuel pump
Hallman MBC-------------------- Hallman MBC--------------------Greddy Profec bII
Helix HFC and Downpipe------Megan HFC and Downpipe---Buschur DP and HFC
Greddy Titatiumcatback-------Helix Catback Exhaust---------Buschur + Magnaflow
Aem Intake-----------------------Injen Intake--------------------Buschur Intake
Dyno flash through the mail---TurboTrix Flash--------Custom Dynoflash
boost is set at 20 psi-----------boost is set at 20 psi---------Boost 20psi
HKS Blow off valve--------------MR Blow off valve--------------Stock BOV
Mustang Dyno-------------------Mustang Dyno------------------Mustang Dyno
238--------------------------------295-------------------------------290

It truly seems that the Dyno/setup is the issue. My custom Dynoflash (when I was at that stage) was virtually identical to the Mail-in for those mods. Al already has a ton of baselines for these very common mods... it's basically the fireball 3. What this guy needs to do is have a stock Evo go to the same Dyno and put in the same parameters and see what he pulls, and then run again himself and compare the 2. Then, if there's a hug discrepancy, you can know that it's f'd up. You can't compare Mustang Dyno numbers across the country... too many variables.

 

do we have any dyno experts here? i would like to hear the facts from someone who understands dynos inside and out. until then, your all wrong!


as for this, manufacturers rate their cars from the CRANK hp. there is a driveline loss which is accounted for by measuring the HP at the wheels. then, you can use some simple loss factors and get your crank HP which is not very useful. so mitsu doesn't need to boast the 270 rating, you just need to take your engine out of your car and put in on an engine dyno, then if stock, i bet you see 270+-15. and sense no one else has come up with a good explaination as to why his car dynoed so low (other then blaming it on the dyno), please tell us what could be wrong if it is not a bad flash?

if one dyno reads 20% less then another, my assumption is that the dyno reading high is wrong (so if a DD reads 20% more then a mustang, the DD is likely wrong). it may be attempting to read the crank power, but generally if it's to good to be true, it's not true. i have seen enough dyno charts posted on here to know with your mods (to the original poster), your not making the power you should be. and with a stock car at 270 at the crank, i would expect at the wheels to be 210-240ish.

now i am going to research how dynos work and how they calculate power, but i bet that weight has little to no factor in calculating power. then for my next trick i will make my own dyno that is always right so there can be no *****ing about how one reads higher then the other.

 

Alright guys, sorry for not getting back right away. This is my situation, i dynoed the car and it put out 238.5 on a mustang dyno. The weight they put in was 3500 i saw that. A stock evo they dynoed on there mustang only hit 214 and a stock STI ran a 211 So i dont know whats up. Most of there numbers seem to be rather low. With cars/dynos there can be so many factors. Im not saying ALs flash is no good, because when i got flashed the power felt like it was there, a lot smoother and stronger. I dont think its a boost leak because my boost gauge reads my psi holding strong at 20 psi, but then you say it could be my boost gauge, i have no idea. It could be my BOV leaking...It could be anything basically. Al i didnt contact you first right away because from my own and past experience are that you arnt the most friendly person to try and talk to. This is just my experience i have heard from a bunch of people that you are really nice and all, but it wasnt the case with me. You seemed like you were in a rush to end the phone conversation with me, when i had questions to ask. I know sometimes you just catch people at a bad time and that might have been the case. Whatever the situation is, im not trying to bash dyno flash, because it seems like its a great product and it seemed like the power was there. Well right now i will just try and scan my dyno sheet so i can post it for everyone to see, and i guess just keep troubleshooting the problem.

 

When you first called me I may have been actually in a big rush, sometimes people call and I am literally on the side of the road tuning a car. Since there is only one person here to answer the phone - ME - I try to answer it whenever I can - even if its late at night or when I am tuning a car, but obviously some times I do NOT have a long time to chat about mods and other install questions. It may be a better option to just turn the phone OFF and let people leave voice messages, BUT I find that in many cases then the people I am calling back are then not available and I wind up playing phone tag. Often, I am trying to provide quick answers on the phone to basic questions and prefer more extensive questions to be posted here on the forums. Please so not take my limited time as a sign of rudness - but rather please understand that I am one guy who is working sometimes 16 hour days 7 days a week to keep up with demand.

Be that as it may, I think you should give me another call to review some things on your car and see if there is anything that needs to be done tuning wise - OR if we are just dealing with a low reading dyno.

When people have problems I will go to great legnths to assist then to find the answers. I have a lot of experience with evo tuning matters. I encourage you to contact me.

Feel free to call me any time 203-515-4110