From what i understand a Flashed ecu out performs an ecu on the SAFC alone... am i right in this assumption.... I know together that they make a pretty good combo but alone.. which is better....???

 

id say the flash is more worth it. not necissarily better, but more worth it. just my 2 cents

 

SAFC is useless without a wideband o2

 

I say flash is better and so do most of the major tuners.

 

go with the flash

 

Get flashed, and then add an SAFC to make minor adjustments

If u know how to use the AFC or ur willing to learn, get 1.. with a flash u wont be able to make adjustments unless u retune again, and thats what $199+ each time? I got flashed mainly because of the rev limit increase and for some timing adjustments and fuel cut, But i have to play with the SAFC pretty much every day , temperature humidity will either make it go richer or leaner, with the SAFC u'll have something to play with, if i had to spend 300-400 i would take an SAFC over a flash any day.. I logged a car with a cutom flash last sat, and it was running pig rich, his car was tuned on a 90f afternoon. we logged it at 1am maybe 72f and there was nothing we could do about it.. GO FOR SAFC IMO.

 

thats what im saying .. but somone was trying to tell me otherwise...

 

Comparing to a mail in flash, i prefer the afc if its tuned by a pro. Custom flash is a diff. story, but I like the fact to be able to change my adjustments quickly, and not have to drive up somewhere or mail my ecu in.

 

a safc2 is really useless without a wideband o2 like justchil said, the only way you could use it is to guess without a wideband

 

My custom flash works only because i bought all buschur stg parts.. so Al had the correct maps to put in ..

 

03BREvo8 Read post #6 Edited.

 

I had the SAFC up till stage 4.. its only 150 for a reflash and i can just drive there..

 

Actually a good logger that shows you timing advance can work realy well with the Super AFC. Making sure the timing advance curves are always climbing without any drops shows that you aren't knocking and that will allow you to go a notch leaner until you see a drop. Usually the knock at a certain RPM indicates that you need to richen things up a few hundred RPM's before the drop and with some carefull tuning you can get really close to optimum settings.

 

true.. but with buschurs stg4 i have they're exact map in my ecu.. for identicle parts... only way that will work.. gotta get down to pruven in the near future once my LM-1 comes in .. to get a more precise tune and flash

 

I agree, pocketlogger and SAFC, makes a killer combo, i helped tune a friends car with an SAFC and logger, EUGO wide band, and 0.92 0.91 o2's showed 11.6 11.7 on the wideband, 0.89 0.90 showed 12.0 wideband, 02's are not as accurate as wideband but as u can see 0.92 o2's acrross the rpm range seems like the sweet spot as it used to be on 2nd gen dsm's I personally dont have a wideband and i tune for 0.91-0.93 across the board on my car , no timing drops 20deg by 7000rpms. Car pulls strong and steady.