I plan on ordering my GF210's tomorrow and was some what concerned as I have a pretty heave subwoofer/amp combo going in tomorrow night (JL 13w6v2 and 500/1 in 3/4" MDF enclosure)...Should I have any concerns for the rear springs/struts?

 

Not likely...look at the door jamb of the car and see what the max capacity for the car is. Remember, it's a four door sedan...meaning it should be able to carry 4 passengers including the driver. So unless your system is going to be 300lbs i wouldn't worry about it.

 

you should be fine. i have about a 100lb system in the trunk and im fine. only hard thing for me to do was to install my coilover since i had my system in first. i had to take off the false wall for the amps to get out the lining for the struts.

 

Oh I doubt my system is over 50-60lbs at most.

Thanks though!

 

inprogress u should be fine. i run an Alpine Type-X 12 in my '03 in it is fine. iu do remove it when i go to the track though. sub by itself weighs in at a portly 46lbs but i also don't carry the spare tire. the weight of the Dynamat Extreme i used in the trunk made up for the weight of the spare. also if u haven't yet your stock exhaust is REAL heavy. i shaved 35lbs off the car when i put my 3" TBE on...

 

if your box is 3/4" MDF, i assure you it is over this weight. that wood is too thick 4 that sub IMO. i would have went with 5/8" since your not running that much power...

FYI-a JL 13W6V2 weighs in at 26.8lbs...

 

Hmm...then maybe I'm mistaken...I'll measure the wood then to make sure...

Thanks

 

Also, the JL's (at least in my experience) are generally lighter... of course that was the 12w3v2 that I put in my car in a custom box... 15 lbs over sparetire and tool weight, including dynamat. The sub doesn't weigh much, none of them do, even big 17s don't weigh THAT much, it is the boxes you put them in that can weigh different (and large) amounts. Easiest thing to do is use/make easy remove connections for the sub wires outside of the box and take it out if ever you race. I made mine a little showy because I wanted trunk space and music at the same time.

Anyway, you'll be fine, the car's max weight load is like 800 something... 4 wheels with race tires, a bunch of luggage and about 100-300 lbs of passenger/driver weight (depending on who's going racing with me) and its just fine.

 

How can I make quick easy connects for the power, ground, and etc that are on the amp?

My box is a bit diff, it is a box but also has a panel to its side that has the amp on it, would I always have to take out the power/ground, RCA etc by hand each time I take it out?

 

UT evo, lightweight only applies to everything under W6's & W7's. a JL 13W7 weighs 56lbs by itself!

in progress, i would install quick releases on your power/ground connections in case u need 2 remove the box.

it was also not a good idea to install the amp ON the box as that makes it easier to steal. so in this case, i would bolt down that box at every possible angle & corner...

 

About clamping down, wouldn't it be harder to access the spare tire in case of a emergency?

I was thinking about a bracket at the top.

On the Evo IX's, can I bolt the amp to the back of the seat?

Any pics of these quick releases?

 

1) yes it would be impossible to get to the spare.

2) u could take out the thin cover under the bottom carpet & replace with wood hinged in middle to access spare tire.

3) u can bolt to back of seat but u will need a piece of wood there for the amp to bolt to.

4) u can use a speaker terminal for your connections mounted near the backseat for easy plug N play...

 

I've actually thought about the wood hinged idea, I may have to put that into play.

I was hoping I wouldnt have to make a amp rack, maybe the cost will play a role in whether i do it...

so you're saying use speaker terminals for the power, ground, and etc?

 

using a super heavy duty speaker terminal is one way of doing it. i'm using an old speaker terminal from a Klipsch Refence speaker that i blew up. the speaker was internally wired w/Monster Cable so it will accept up to 4 gauge cable on the back. i then used banana plugs on the front with 8 gauge cable for the amps & 1 farad cap. i also run a quick release to disconnect the box from the amp as well using a speaker terminal from www.parts-express.com

 

I just bought a 2x4x1/2 MDF board for the amp rack...I guess if the amp rack works out I wont need quick disconnects. I dont mind leaving an amp in the trunk while I hit the track..

Thank for all the help!