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Oil return line leaking???

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Old Sep 19, 2006 | 06:50 PM
  #1  
LetItBreath's Avatar
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From: City O Sin, MA...the not so sinish part though...
Angry Oil return line leaking???

This will be failed attempt number 4 to stop my oil return line from leaking. My 35r kit will be fun I'm sure once I get to use it...Again, Alex vs. God on my car. Alex - 0, God - 109762357890912. Its leaking through one of the bolt holes on the return flange where the flange meets the oil pan. I actually just put on a new pan today and put rtv on the threads for the return flange this time. That still didn't work. I'm using the oem bolts with the washers that have the rubber in the middle. Has anyone had this problem and/or found/know of a remedy? I'm about to smash my face into a mirror or watch Lifetime; both being equally as painful. HELP!
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Old Sep 19, 2006 | 08:41 PM
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From: Grand Island, NE
First I'd check carefully that the oil isn't coming from the return line connection at the turbo or that you don't have a crack in the flex section of the tube. If all is okay there my next suggestion would be to have another go at the pan connection using new washers and a new gasket. The torque for the bolts is 80 inch pounds. Exceed that by much and you could strip the threads. The fix for that is having a nut welded inside the pan or a new pan.
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Old Sep 19, 2006 | 08:47 PM
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From: Delaware
I had the same problem with my 30R kit. Buy the 10AN billet return fitting. Got mine from ExtremePSI. I used standard AN fittings on the line, but you could also use a push-lock style AN fitting. Combined with a new gasket and some sealant, your problem should be solved. If your kit came from the same place as mine did, they supplied a poorly designed return fitting. I could never get mine to stop leaking, until I replaced it with the billet piece.

The return fitting that came with my kit had oval bolt holes. It was also too large. The fitting has to fit within the flat spot on the oil pan. The one that came with my kit was hitting the lip, at the edge of the flat area, which created a gap for oil to leak through.

Last edited by DEL TURBO; Sep 19, 2006 at 08:50 PM. Reason: more info
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Old Sep 19, 2006 | 09:10 PM
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From: FL
are you using crush washers on the bolts attached to the oil pan?
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Old Sep 20, 2006 | 03:54 AM
  #5  
LetItBreath's Avatar
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From: City O Sin, MA...the not so sinish part though...
Originally Posted by joeymia
are you using crush washers on the bolts attached to the oil pan?
no but i was actually thinking about it(more like losing sleep over it) last night and I think I'm gonna pick up some small copper washers and put rtv in the bolt holes before I thread in the screws. Its tough to explain but oil can easily get to the bolt hole the way its designed. I'm gonna try it one more time today and hopefully this cures it.
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Old Sep 20, 2006 | 07:34 AM
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From: FL
Originally Posted by LetItBreath
no but i was actually thinking about it(more like losing sleep over it) last night and I think I'm gonna pick up some small copper washers and put rtv in the bolt holes before I thread in the screws. Its tough to explain but oil can easily get to the bolt hole the way its designed. I'm gonna try it one more time today and hopefully this cures it.
without washers those bolts will leak. once you get them on everything should be ok
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 06:21 PM
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From: Knoxville Tennessee
do ya'll think liquid teflon thread sealant might work also ? thats what I just used but havent started the car in a while . I also have the oil drained out of it. I'm waiting for a few parts I ordered till I get it running again. Just wondering if teflon might work. if not I'll take it out, clean it and then put rtv
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 07:40 PM
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From: Down south
Probably a stupid question, but are you making sure that both contact points are completely oil free before bolting things up. Also make sure to use a new oem gasket and torque to spec.
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