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Boost gauge hook up without using FPR?

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Old Jan 5, 2007 | 02:51 PM
  #1  
drewblueeye's Avatar
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From: Sioux CIty, IA
Boost gauge hook up without using FPR?

Is there a way to hook up a Defi mechanical boost gauge without useing the Fuel Pressure Regulator Solenoid hose? I currently have mine T'ed into the hose for the FRP but would like to find a different source. Has anyone hook theirs up to a different place? Pictures are a plus
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Old Jan 5, 2007 | 03:02 PM
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did u search?

there is a pressure source off the manifold...let me see if i can find a pick
...why do u want to use something other than the fpr? ...scared of blowing the engine ?
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Old Jan 5, 2007 | 06:25 PM
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You can use the blow off valve or basically any vacuum hose coming off the intake manifold.
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Old Jan 5, 2007 | 06:46 PM
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From: Tupelo, MS
Originally Posted by littlemilla3
You can use the blow off valve or basically any vacuum hose coming off the intake manifold.
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 12:02 AM
  #5  
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From: Sioux CIty, IA
ok i will try and make this short and to the point without to much rambling.

I have a BR lower intercooler pipe (LICP) which doesnt come with a nipple on it for the MBC, so i have to 'T' into the hose that runs from the intake manifold to the Forge RS BOV.
BUT i get a bad sputter from my BOV at low boost (between 10psi to 17psi) BUT i dont have a sputter at WOT. The reason for the sputter, and i was told this by AMS and Buschur Racing (BR), Is because of the bleeder valve on the MBC causes a small leak (all MBC leak a little because of the bleeder valve. Which causes the BOV to sputter at low boost

Now I have a Defi Boost gauge installed in my car and am using the FPR hose for the boost gauge

So i was thinking... if i could put the Boost gauge at a different source then i could hook the MBC to the FPR hose then i wouldnt have a sputter.

Now just to clear some comments... i cant use the stock LICP because i have the BR Race intercooler which wont work with the stock LICP

So basically if someone could tell me or even better post a pic of a place to either tie the MBC into or a place to 'T' into to Put my boost gauge then that would be great.

Also i was told by a tech at AMS that you CAN 'T' into the FPR hose but it isnt how they do it because it COULD lower the vacuum a small amount and you want the vacuum to the FPR to be completely accurate.
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 12:13 AM
  #6  
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From: ☼ Florida ☼
Originally Posted by drewblueeye
ok i will try and make this short and to the point without to much rambling.

I have a BR lower intercooler pipe (LICP) which doesnt come with a nipple on it for the MBC, so i have to 'T' into the hose that runs from the intake manifold to the Forge RS BOV.
BUT i get a bad sputter from my BOV at low boost (between 10psi to 17psi) BUT i dont have a sputter at WOT. The reason for the sputter, and i was told this by AMS and Buschur Racing (BR), Is because of the bleeder valve on the MBC causes a small leak (all MBC leak a little because of the bleeder valve. Which causes the BOV to sputter at low boost

Now I have a Defi Boost gauge installed in my car and am using the FPR hose for the boost gauge

So i was thinking... if i could put the Boost gauge at a different source then i could hook the MBC to the FPR hose then i wouldnt have a sputter.

Now just to clear some comments... i cant use the stock LICP because i have the BR Race intercooler which wont work with the stock LICP

So basically if someone could tell me or even better post a pic of a place to either tie the MBC into or a place to 'T' into to Put my boost gauge then that would be great.

Also i was told by a tech at AMS that you CAN 'T' into the FPR hose but it isnt how they do it because it COULD lower the vacuum a small amount and you want the vacuum to the FPR to be completely accurate.
ok...stutter or compressor surge? what bov are we talking about?
You're creating more work for yourself...either you have a piece of isht BOV or a crappy MBC ...please elaborate on the manufacturer of the units in question...what you're trying to do sounds O.T.T

You can T into the FPR line...wont affect vacuum...2 gauges or units should work fine without affecting the vacuum ..

Don't use your FPR for your mbc...mbc needs a constant pressure source ...not vac and pressure...
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 10:00 PM
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From: Sioux CIty, IA
OK, I have a forge RS BOV and i have a forge MBC. IT isnt the MBC or the BOV I know this for a fact because of two reasons

1. when i put the stock LICP on and run the hose from the MBC to the LICP, then the BOV does not sputter. But if I use the BR LICP and have to 'T' the MBC into the hose between the BOV and the intake manifold then it does sputter. Because the BR LICP doesnt have a nipple on it like the stock LICP.

2. I have already tried 2 different MBCs and 2 different BOVs and they all sputter if I 'T' the MBC into the line between the BOV and the intake manifold. but don't sputter if i run the hose from the MBC to the stock LICP.


sooo all that aside anyone know where i can run the line from the MBC to instead of the hose between the BOV and the intake manifold besides the FPR?
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 10:35 PM
  #8  
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From: New Jersey
why not have the BR licp fabbed for a nipple fitting and solve your issues that way
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Old Jan 7, 2007 | 04:30 AM
  #9  
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From: Oxfordshire
Hi

LICP with a nipple for an MBC? What bit are you calling the LICP, the pipe that does a 180 and lies horisontal, or the one that come verticaly out of the turbo?

I can't belive anyone would produce a turbo outlet pipe with no nipple for boost control.

The stock system uses the turbo outlet pipe for boost control, this is bolted to the turbo, this is where your MBC or any other boost control should go.

Do not, for goodnes sake, hook the MBC up to the FPR. Think about it, you bleed air of the unit that controls fuel presure, it will think you are running less boost than you are, it may run lean, then BANG.
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Old Jan 7, 2007 | 10:17 AM
  #10  
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From: SJ, CA.
My BR turbo outlet pipe didn't come with a nipple fiiting either.
I just drilled/tapped a 1/8" npt hole and put a barb fitting in.
No issues here.
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 10:15 PM
  #11  
drewblueeye's Avatar
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From: Sioux CIty, IA
Evotech,
Do you happen to have a picture of the nipple you fabricated for your BR LICP? did you have to weld anything? how did you seal it so no air would leak out of it? If you could post some detailed instructions and maybe some pictures then i would owe you BIG. I have taken my BR LICP to welding shop and they told me that they could weld a nipple on there but it is hard dealing with aluminum, it could be spendy and it would take a few days. I would rather do it myself if you could help me out that would be great.
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 12:37 AM
  #12  
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From: not here
you could probably pick up a fitting from any autoparts store, drill and tap the correct hole and then just jb weld it in.
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