Engine Warm-up???
Speaking of warming up pertty fast... the heaters in these things are nothing like the old DSM heaters. Those things had blast furnaces!
"I always wait til the temp gauge needle starts to move. Trying to drive the evo when its still cold sucks. It bucks and heaves like a rodeo bull."
Number 8 -- I was wondering if it was just mine that did that. Wonder if it has to do with the car being in open loop until it warms up?
"I always wait til the temp gauge needle starts to move. Trying to drive the evo when its still cold sucks. It bucks and heaves like a rodeo bull."
Number 8 -- I was wondering if it was just mine that did that. Wonder if it has to do with the car being in open loop until it warms up?
Last edited by EVO8emUp; Jan 22, 2007 at 12:07 PM.
Letting the engine warm up is *VERY* important for a forced induction motor. The oil, bearings, and rings all need to be near operating temperature before driving the vehicle in order to prevent premature wear.
Mine does that too! I guess it doesn't really like it when it's cold. The guys from Road and Track complained about that after the 50K test!
Negative. Did you not read the entire thread? It's important to get the engine warmed up before BOOSTING, not before driving it. YOu are supposed to warm it up BY DRIVING but not boosting or revving hard. You do not warm the car up by idling...
10 mins is ridiculous, and warming it up by idling does not warm up the transmission anyway. YOu need to drive the car to warm it up - same goes for the trans - just double clutch that first 1-2 shift, and the rest is fine. Also, if you have a cat, idling for extended periods of time can damage it.
Yes, the entire thread is WRONG. You can drive the car before it is fully warmed up (don't boost it) however this will cause pre-mature bearing failure. Not boosting helps saving the rings, but there is MORE TO AN ENGINE than the piston rings. When you drive the car cold and without boost, the bearings and oil are still cold, causing improper oil flow, and wear to the bearings (if the bearings are still cold they haven't expanded to their operational size and will cause the rod to knock around until they expand).
Last edited by sonicnofadz; Jan 22, 2007 at 01:36 PM.
10 mins is ridiculous, and warming it up by idling does not warm up the transmission anyway. YOu need to drive the car to warm it up - same goes for the trans - just double clutch that first 1-2 shift, and the rest is fine. Also, if you have a cat, idling for extended periods of time can damage it.
Idling Myths:
Myth #1: "The engine should be warmed up for long periods prior to driving."
Reality: Idling is not an effective way to warm up your engine, even in cold weather. The best way to do this is to drive the vehicle. With today's modern engines, you need no more than 30 seconds of idling on winter days before starting to drive.
Myth #2: "Idling is good for the engine."
Reality: Excessive idling can actually damage engine components, including cylinders, spark plugs, and the exhaust system.
Myth #3: "Shutting off and restarting the vehicle when it's stopped is bad for the engine and uses more gasoline than if you leave it running."
Reality: Frequent restarting has little impact on engine components. Component wear caused by restarting the engine is estimated to add $10 per year to the cost of driving, money that will likely be recovered several times over in fuel savings from reduced idling.
Idling Facts:
Fact #1: Idling wastes fuel and money. Every 10 minutes of idling costs you at least 1/10 of a liter of wasted fuel. Keep in mind that every liter of gasoline produces 5.4 pounds of carbon dioxide.
Fact #2: Idling contributes to global warming. Vehicle idling can have a powerful effect on the outdoor air quality at the local and community level.
Fact #3: Diesel and gasoline exhausts contain more than 40 hazardous pollutants. Idling your vehicle with the air conditioner on can increase emissions by 13 percent.