Engine Warm-up???
What????????/ 15 minutes!!!! That is terrible for your car to sit for 15 mins at idle. You are supposed to warm the car up by DRIVING it, not by sitting still.
OP, you can wait 30-60s before you start moving, but after that, start driving out of boost until the engine temps stabilize. Then, you can boost happily. Letting the car idle until it reaches operating temps is bad for the car.
OP, you can wait 30-60s before you start moving, but after that, start driving out of boost until the engine temps stabilize. Then, you can boost happily. Letting the car idle until it reaches operating temps is bad for the car.
Out of sheer curiosity, did you think about your arguments before you posted? And if you did, for how long?
yes long enough to know that that was a retarded statement that dude made and your running a close second. Read your manual and it says to warm up the car till the temp needle starts to move. I dont understand how running your car at idle is bad for it.
I'll be ignored but..........
163K on my turbo eclipse (mid 11 second car) and I retired the stock motor for goals of much more power. Teardown showed excellent main, rod, and cylinder wall wear. I have probably 500 quarter mile passes on this car. Anyways I've always:
Start the car up, check oil pressure real quick. Oil pressure? Ok, let the idle settle for a few seconds and start driving. Keep it below 3000rpm's but above 2500rpm's. Try to not go over 45mph or so. When the coolant comes up to temp drive normal but realize that the oil temps are still cold so don't hog on it for 10 minutes or 10 miles.
163K on my turbo eclipse (mid 11 second car) and I retired the stock motor for goals of much more power. Teardown showed excellent main, rod, and cylinder wall wear. I have probably 500 quarter mile passes on this car. Anyways I've always:
Start the car up, check oil pressure real quick. Oil pressure? Ok, let the idle settle for a few seconds and start driving. Keep it below 3000rpm's but above 2500rpm's. Try to not go over 45mph or so. When the coolant comes up to temp drive normal but realize that the oil temps are still cold so don't hog on it for 10 minutes or 10 miles.
If you actually took the time to read from the beginning you would come to find out that your dumb axx comment would have been answered. So let me help you out. The idling issue being discussed is related to the thread's title and initial post, which is IDLING TIME FOR WARM-UP. If you actually believe idling is bad fine, but you must run through starters like helmets. Do you honestly think anyone was actually talking about traffic/ trains..whatever???
Or maybe your car never warms up so you never shut it off so it always idling?? WOW
BTW welcome to Evom. I'm sure by your first posts we will not be supprised to more posts with this intelligence, and this can be a rough crowd but often times deserved. Amazing.
Last edited by BUCKNAKED; Jan 25, 2007 at 08:36 AM.
If you actually took the time to read from the beginning you would come to find out that your dumb axx comment would have been answered. So let me help you out. The idling issue being discussed is related to the thread's title and initial post, which is IDLING TIME FOR WARM-UP. If you actually believe idling is bad fine, but you must run through starters like helmets. Do you honestly think anyone was actually talking about traffic/ trains..whatever???
Or maybe your car never warms up so you never shut it off so it always idling?? WOW
BTW welcome to Evom. I'm sure by your first posts we will not be supprised to more posts with this intelligence, and this can be a rough crowd but often times deserved. Amazing.
Or maybe your car never warms up so you never shut it off so it always idling?? WOW
BTW welcome to Evom. I'm sure by your first posts we will not be supprised to more posts with this intelligence, and this can be a rough crowd but often times deserved. Amazing.
What????????/ 15 minutes!!!! That is terrible for your car to sit for 15 mins at idle. You are supposed to warm the car up by DRIVING it, not by sitting still.
OP, you can wait 30-60s before you start moving, but after that, start driving out of boost until the engine temps stabilize. Then, you can boost happily. Letting the car idle until it reaches operating temps is bad for the car.
OP, you can wait 30-60s before you start moving, but after that, start driving out of boost until the engine temps stabilize. Then, you can boost happily. Letting the car idle until it reaches operating temps is bad for the car.
Why is it so bad to let the car warm up that long? I can see in the heat of Summer the car doesn't get the cooling effect of the air hitting it, but lets say it is 15 degrees out, why is it bad for the car? Is it an oiling issue? Not enough oil to lubricate the car at idle and you need some RPM's to pump it? No matter WHAT the oil is basically freezing temps and a low RPM and poor oil flow is better then HIGH rpm's (well at least 3000-4500) while the car is cold. It gets REAL cold by me and I at least wait for the RPMS to drop below 1000 at idle before I take off, which is the engines way of telling me it has some heat. I don't mean 15-20mins but the car feels like it has Tourette's if I try to take off right away in 15 degree weather and it is down right scary and boggy.
My issue is whether the engine oil is warmed up or not, so I wait for my oil Temp gauge to move a little bit before I have some fun. You must also understand that you have an IRON block, which takes much longer to heat up then it's aluminum head. My personal warm-up procedure is 5 mins at idle, and then another 10-15 mins or regular driving and I go by my oil temp gauge then I stomp on it.
FYI BMW M cars have an engine warm up "Count Down" so to speak in the form of the RED/YELLOW/GREEN lights which let you know when the engine oil is ready for a 8,000RPM blast, I suggest you all do the same.
Last edited by High_PSI; Jan 25, 2007 at 10:26 AM.
At idle, the air to fuel ratio is very RICH, which causes lots of carbon deposits on the tops of the pistons, and in the exhaust. Besides this, there are no negative effects. Some people claim that a rich idle can harm the engine, however it DOES NO PERMANENT damage to the engine itself. Nothing a little seafoam (or hard acceleration) can't get rid of =)
Wrong again, letting the engine warm up idling at a standstill WILL warm the transmission up a little. When the clutch is engaged, and the transmission is in neutral, there are many shafts that are rotating INSIDE the transmission, however there is no load on them, but the friction of this rotation causes HEAT. Go read how a transmission works. Better yet, go rebuild one and then think about why I said this.
I know for a FACT that this is true. Back when I had my 2003 Evo, I didn't do the tranny oil for 2 years because I was lazy, so in the winter it got REAL thick, and when I started the car, it wanted to take off even in neutral, I literally had to wait until the transmission oil WARMED up (By idling) and then it wouldn't run away on me. It was also impossible to do the 1-2 gear shift until, once again the car was warmed up. Change your gear oil people.
Ok, you're right and everyone else is wrong. I guess what I've done isn't considered research (strange!?!?). I suppose everything published online and by auto manufacturers is dead wrong and doesn't count as research. I could not find one resource stating a contrary belief or explanation. I also must have been very lucky to run 12.5s with 130k miles on my '91 FWD Eclipse on the stock motor, turbo, and drivetrain prescribing to this method of "warm up."
No offense Sir but I got 156K outa my TSI AWD and I beat the **** out that with a 50 trim. My Hub and sleeve broke and not once, not twice, but thrice I shifted from 3-2 at WOT which was above 9000RPM's, never blew. I also had no where near the knowledge of the 4G63 that I do now. You had a 91 motor which was MUCH more stout then my 2G DSM.
Back On topic? I wait for the engine coolant needle to move at least one tic, then I am off.
But I am still concerned about the different thermal expansions of so many different metals working together. Forged Steel, Semi-forged Aluminum Pistons, Cast-iron Block, Forged Aluminum head. All these metals all have different atomic masses and ALL expand and absorb heat at different rates, I for one am overly cautious until they all have expanded which again I believe takes a while, especially the Iron. All these components have to expand to a specific size when they are running at the right temp, so that means they have to be OUT of spec when cold.
P.S. Someone build us an all titanium engine, that'll solve a lot of issues.
well put it this way...
if you living in L.A. you don't need the warm up the car.probably never cool down under 50 f. but if you living in Boston or somewhere in Oregon then you have to warm when is cold out there. /winter,spring etc./
if you living in L.A. you don't need the warm up the car.probably never cool down under 50 f. but if you living in Boston or somewhere in Oregon then you have to warm when is cold out there. /winter,spring etc./
Is it important to idle my vehicle for a few minutes to warm up the engine, especially in winter?
No. Although this is a common practice among motorists, it’s also wasteful and damages the environment. Tests show that you need no more than 30 seconds of idling to circulate the engine oil before you can drive away on cold days. Anything more just wastes money and produces needless greenhouse gas emissions. Remember, more than the engine needs to be warmed – so do the tires, transmission, wheel bearings and other moving parts. As well, the catalytic converter doesn’t function at its peak until it reaches between 400°C and 800°C. The best way to warm the engine and all other components is to drive your vehicle.
Can idling damage my car’s engine?
You bet it can! Because the engine isn’t working at its peak operating temperature when it’s idling, the fuel doesn’t undergo complete combustion. This leaves fuel residues that can contaminate engine oil and damage engine parts. For example, fuel residues tend to deposit on spark plugs. As the amount of engine idling increases, the plugs’ average temperature drops, and they get dirty more quickly. This, in turn, can increase fuel consumption by four to five percent. It’s a vicious circle of wasted fuel and needless greenhouse gas emissions. Excessive idling can also let water condense in the vehicle’s exhaust. This can lead to corrosion and reduce the life of the exhaust system.
No. Although this is a common practice among motorists, it’s also wasteful and damages the environment. Tests show that you need no more than 30 seconds of idling to circulate the engine oil before you can drive away on cold days. Anything more just wastes money and produces needless greenhouse gas emissions. Remember, more than the engine needs to be warmed – so do the tires, transmission, wheel bearings and other moving parts. As well, the catalytic converter doesn’t function at its peak until it reaches between 400°C and 800°C. The best way to warm the engine and all other components is to drive your vehicle.
Can idling damage my car’s engine?
You bet it can! Because the engine isn’t working at its peak operating temperature when it’s idling, the fuel doesn’t undergo complete combustion. This leaves fuel residues that can contaminate engine oil and damage engine parts. For example, fuel residues tend to deposit on spark plugs. As the amount of engine idling increases, the plugs’ average temperature drops, and they get dirty more quickly. This, in turn, can increase fuel consumption by four to five percent. It’s a vicious circle of wasted fuel and needless greenhouse gas emissions. Excessive idling can also let water condense in the vehicle’s exhaust. This can lead to corrosion and reduce the life of the exhaust system.
Can you type it out verbatim? I doubt it says not to let the car warm up at all. I wouldn't be surprised if it said not to let the car sit at idle in order to warmup. It would make no sense for Audi to tell its owner to romp on the engine before the engine oil has gotten to operating temps.






