i was planning on running alky...

when i put this turbo on, i will have just about every bolt on already installed. basically i have everything or its on order, to build an upgraded turbo car. before i was planning on just running a evo green for a while, then my buddy was talking to me about a 35R with a safe tune on a stock block would be better then the green.

i will eventually have a bulit stroker block, so thats why im thinkin get the 35r that way once i have a built motor, i wont need to upgrade a turbo and i can make a whole lot more power with a different tune on a 35R

 

I would say it wouldn't be optimal UNLESS you ran METH, then over 500WHP would be at your finger tips and you would be QUITE fast. If you plan on staying pump.

OEM Turbo
FP Green
50Trim Turbo Kit

All of these turbos will keep you happy and healthy, a 50Trim on Meth is also a force as well with the massive torque it creates.

If you keep the OEM bottom end and bolt on an intake manifold and even use a Stand Alone, you can expect about 550WHP on the stock bottom end GT35R/Meth and be right at the limit as far as WHP is concerned.

 

i second this option, meth plus 50trimm

 

Any significant amount of detonation will blow up any engine (stock or built) with any turbo combination running any significant amount of boost.

The real danger to the stock block is too much power that the internals were not designed to withstand. So... as you get up to the 500whp mark - yes your entering the danger zone. Also as you push the stock internals to their limit your engine will be less forgiving of detonation and the longevity of the assembly will be compromised as well.

 

i run a 35r,full bolt on's,and pump(94 sunoco) and lay down 490whp with no meth on a dj and that b!t$h is daily driven for about 22000 miles already and im happy as a pig in $h!t with her so to all the na sayers i guess im proof positive but i must admit gas mileage is garbage only for the fact of the 1000cc injectors

 

You can look at my mods in my sig and see what a 35r can do on a stock block... Mine has been running this way for quite a while... I also made 595 running 114 gas... anytime you get up there, you take a risk though...

 

or you could just do what scorke said.

 

Hp isn't really the issue. You won't make good torque without meth having to run lower boost. Do what I did and just do drop in pistons and rods (ross/eagle) for stock bore. Its quiet easy to do if you're mechanically inclined and much cheaper

 

My full weight car on a 92 degree day with a 1.74 60' went 11.04 @ 128mph on a 100% stock block, head, ignition, intake manifold, etc.... All I really had was our stages 1-4, AEM EMS and our 3065 turbo kit. The turbo kit was running at 29psi and made 462 on our Mustang dyno.

I would NOT recommend shifting it past 7800 or so while making big power. We have seen the stock rods bolts stretch which isnt a good thing.

The only reason I changed out my stock internals is just for safety reasons. I didnt want to buy a new block core from Mitsubishi if a stock rod did break at 8000+ rpm. I have a customer that is running 500+whp on his 100% stock engine right now and has been for about 20,000 miles. He has not had any issues at all.

 

yeah i was wondering the same thing except i have almost 65K miles on my evo... and have a 35r turbo kit to put on but im affraid i will blow up the stock block... and dont have enought money to buidl the stock block..... im just going to say f@ck it and put the Bi*ch on.. i know a good tuner named brad at isp racing and he should be able to do a good job

 

So what would changing the rods bolts do? Like if I wanted to swap in some ARP Rod bolts? Just drop the oil pan and insert them? Wala?