your wrong on that. y = x^2*(dx/dy)[/QUOTE]
derivative of x^2 with respect to y is zero because its like taking the derivative of a constant.
now im pretty sure you meant x= x^2 (d/dx) which is true because of the power rule n-1 x^n = d/dx of f(n)

 

oope i meant 2x = x^2(d/dx)

 

Exactly.

 

get it, its a good deal. Check ure cash situation

 

I sold cars myself for quite some time so listen up! Research is your best friend. An educated consumer always gets the best deal and from a salesman's perspective, is the best customer to have. We are not all evil, we are just trying to make a sale to get paid. When we see that a prospect has done his research, our job gets very easy. All we need to do is sell the boss on the numbers. As long as you are realistic, you can get a great deal. Usually we will try to put some money in our pockets but we will do what we must to get the sale. A small deal is better than no deal at all.

First rule of thumb is NEVER TAKE THE FIRST OFFER. It sounds like the trade in numbers are close. I use KBB.com to get a good idea of what your car is worth. KBB is NOT what the wholesalers use and typically their numbers are higher than what the banks say a car is worth. Typically, if you can get what Kelly says your car is worth on trade in, you are doing very well.

Next, Edmunds.com will tell you what the car would sticker for, what invoice is and what the new car will typically sell for (average sale price). From here, it is simple math. What the new car should sell for - trade in offer + payoff, taxes, title and doc fees.

If you are getting a loan, shop around for a good rate. Credit unions are usually the best place to go for a good rate because they are not for profit organizations. BTW, you can always sign up for a loan at the dealer and shop for a better rate afterwards. Just make sure you do it quickly or the bank will label the car as a used one and the rate will go up accordingly. Again, just be realistic. Knowing your credit score before you go in will help. If you are not a 700 score or up, don't expect a prime rate.

Sometimes a dealer will try to play hardball with you. If they do, just leave and go to another dealer. That type of business is outdated. If you strike a deal and an issue comes up, remember the customer surveys. These are VERY important to the dealership and often means money to them. You can make the dealer very happy with a good survey or you can use it to get what you need done. Just play nice, remember the sales staff are just people too. We all make mistakes and we all hate an irrate customer. You will catch more flies with honey - type thing.

Another tip, usually the boss is more willing to cave in at the end of the month. He will take a nothing deal to inflate that months sales numbers which may mean bonus money for him. Another good idea is to butter up the manager. This sounds really wierd but I have seen customers get incredible deals on a car by bringing in a cake for the manager (our manager liked to eat). I am not saying to bake a cake but rather if you treat him well, he will treat you well.

Happy hunting.

 

Or the salesman told you that hoping you may think you would get a great deal at $35K

 

Almost forgot, take all the mods off the car before you go in with the trade. They do nothing to the book value of the car. This translates to, the banks will not recognize it as a value and they will not increase what they will book the car as. This means that it makes it harder for the dealer to sell the car, since it would mean more money would be needed for a down payment. If someone has $5K in mods, the dealer pays $3K for them, the dealer needs another $3K in down payment to get a loan approved for someone with marginal credit. This makes it harder to sell because the type of people with an extra $3K in their pocket or with great credit are not going to buy a used car to begin with.

Take the time to take the parts off the car and sell them here or on ebay. You will get much more money back that way.

 

Hey cornholes, what kind of bank gives you a 56 month term (4yrs, 8months). I bet he is on a 66 month which is 5 and a half years which is probably what he meant.

 

the best thing to do is go in the managers office and bypass the salesman alltogether. Tell the manager, i got 6 more hrs left in the day and 20 more dealerships to go see, I wan that car for this much, is it a sale or am i off to the next dealership.
simple, simple ,and very effective. no need to make a freaking cake or compliment the manager. make the obvious point to him, that the world has many opportunitys and he is not special.

 

In theory only. Any decent salesman can over come that. Going through the buying process takes time. Salesmen like it less than you, trust me. The longer you spend on one customer is the less time you have to get another buyer.

The manager simply does not have time to handle every deal by himself. If he did, he wouldn't be paying his salesmen. He will simply direct you to a salesman. Being pushy does nothing but aggravate everyone. Being direct is a good thing once you know what you want. The problem is that most buyers aren't very confident in what they want. Which is why I say to do all the research you can.

 

You have your answer right there. Unless you really, really have to have this MR that you are looking at, I would keep the car you have. People are too used to buying a payment instead of economic responsibility. Imagine how nice it will be when you pay off the existing $14k you owe on your current car, you will OWN IT free and clear, and will have a ton of extra cash every month. Car payments are evil. Pay off your car as fast as you can and enjoy being debt free, and still having a cool car.

 

dude, don't do it. you're gonna get owned.

 

sounds like a good deal

 

OK, I just have to add this as I didn't see it anywhere in here. If it was, I apologize. You only pay tax on the difernce of trade. So subtract the 22k from approximate sale price and you only pay 8% on that amount. Dealer fees should only be about 450, tag transfer is usually about 150 pro rated, and tire/battery waste a few $. Tax in this instance looks to be in the neighborhood of 1120. Your essentially paying about 36k for the car unless I'm missing something.

Numbers I used were 36k retail-22k T/I leaving you 14k taxable. That number gives you 1,110 to be added to 27k which came from 36k-9k equity in bringing you to 28,120. Add dealer fees, tag transfer, battery/waste and your now at 28,920 financed. Hope this looks right. I'm working on 3 hours sleep.

 

i just read all 10 pages. this was a very good thread with a lot of important, useful information.

good stuff