labor on 2.3
Couple hundred $$$. figure $300-400 on machine work, proly $300-500 on labor to pull and build it. then what ever on parts.
I had my block line honed (main bearing), decked, bored (cylinders), vated (cleaned), balance shaft bearings installed, main studs installed, rotating assy balanced, new freeze plugs installed. All for $350.
I had my block line honed (main bearing), decked, bored (cylinders), vated (cleaned), balance shaft bearings installed, main studs installed, rotating assy balanced, new freeze plugs installed. All for $350.
Couple hundred $$$. figure $300-400 on machine work, proly $300-500 on labor to pull and build it. then what ever on parts.
I had my block line honed (main bearing), decked, bored (cylinders), vated (cleaned), balance shaft bearings installed, main studs installed, rotating assy balanced, new freeze plugs installed. All for $350.
I had my block line honed (main bearing), decked, bored (cylinders), vated (cleaned), balance shaft bearings installed, main studs installed, rotating assy balanced, new freeze plugs installed. All for $350.
Its like $3500 for a built block. Then its about 2 days worth or work putting it back in. Ill be shocked if you pay less then $2000 for labor. Remember once they put everything back they have to tune the car next. Its not a drop in and play.
Actually I have done most of the work myself. According to labor books, you are looking about 20 hours for a stock rebuild, and say 5 hours for margin (shops tend to charge more for performance stuff) arround here labor hours are on average about $80 per. so that is is $2000 plus machine work.
Goes to show that pulling and reinstalling yourself saves a TON of money
Goes to show that pulling and reinstalling yourself saves a TON of money
Actually I have done most of the work myself. According to labor books, you are looking about 20 hours for a stock rebuild, and say 5 hours for margin (shops tend to charge more for performance stuff) arround here labor hours are on average about $80 per. so that is is $2000 plus machine work.
Goes to show that pulling and reinstalling yourself saves a TON of money
Goes to show that pulling and reinstalling yourself saves a TON of money

Not everyone can build a motor man. I forsure cant. Thats why i have it done by someone that i trust to do it and back up there work.
Prime Ex. this guy from chicago did his motor himself saved about $2800 bucks maybe. Did all the work himself. Well not long after he spun a bearing and some other stuff craped out along the way with it. So he takes it to a local shop. The shop takes the car apart as they do they noticed bolts where lose and not tq down to spec. Now its going to cost him even more money. All new parts im not sure if it was .20 over already. Rapping up the story dont do it if you dont know how to or unless you have at least a few motor builds under your belt.
Forgive me, I wasnt clear. I didnt build the engine myself, I know better than that. I had a Mitsu mechanic I know build it. He needed some parts for his Harley FatBoy and I needed a short block built. So I utilized that and got a short block built. Everything else I, with the occasionally help on heavy lifting, did myself. So far the only people I needed to get help from was the Mitsu mechanic, Upstatescevo, and my Brother.
If you are moderatly mechanically inclined, removing the engine and/or the transmission (which ever way a person feels to pull it) isnt hard, it just looks hard. A 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, and 17mm wrench, socket & ratchet, a set of pry bars, a cherry picker, and floor jack are all the tools one would need.
If you are moderatly mechanically inclined, removing the engine and/or the transmission (which ever way a person feels to pull it) isnt hard, it just looks hard. A 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, and 17mm wrench, socket & ratchet, a set of pry bars, a cherry picker, and floor jack are all the tools one would need.
with no cost for parts and labor alone.
to swap a motor is about $1000
to build a motor should be about $500
and of course there will be several thousands of dollars in in parts
$500 for forged pistons. at least $300 for eagle rods. 100mm crank is at least $600, a litter less if you get a oem mitsu 4g64 crank.
then there are all the bearings and gaskets which is several hundred
then theres the machine work for the block.
around $60 for hottank, $100 for bore and hone, about $150 to balance the rotating assembly.
to build a 2.3 is really a waist of money i think. because you ruin a good motor because the evo block is worth some money
the most economical thing to go to make the most power and save the most money is to just use a 4g64 block and sell the evo block when you done
to swap a motor is about $1000
to build a motor should be about $500
and of course there will be several thousands of dollars in in parts
$500 for forged pistons. at least $300 for eagle rods. 100mm crank is at least $600, a litter less if you get a oem mitsu 4g64 crank.
then there are all the bearings and gaskets which is several hundred
then theres the machine work for the block.
around $60 for hottank, $100 for bore and hone, about $150 to balance the rotating assembly.
to build a 2.3 is really a waist of money i think. because you ruin a good motor because the evo block is worth some money
the most economical thing to go to make the most power and save the most money is to just use a 4g64 block and sell the evo block when you done
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1500- rotating assy hard parts
150- bearings
500- engine gaskets & oil pump
350- machine work (afore mentioned)
2500- total minimum parts
labor, if you got to the dealer or a good named shop, you will spend 2000 for start to finish, 300-500 if you have them build just the engine and you do the rest yourself.
150- bearings
500- engine gaskets & oil pump
350- machine work (afore mentioned)
2500- total minimum parts
labor, if you got to the dealer or a good named shop, you will spend 2000 for start to finish, 300-500 if you have them build just the engine and you do the rest yourself.
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