Engine Build 2008 by Mick with over 100 Photos
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From: Pottsville-PA
Very nice write up... You make me wish I had a pit
GL on your build and give your girl a kiss after she helps you like I do with mines.. You have no idea how many EVOm members wish their girlfriend would help them with anything! Take care and I'll be checking back in to see your progress! 
GL on your build and give your girl a kiss after she helps you like I do with mines.. You have no idea how many EVOm members wish their girlfriend would help them with anything! Take care and I'll be checking back in to see your progress! Even better she helped detail the Jetta with three hours of show prep time for about 8 shows a year. And she even drove her car as a trailer for the "just in case" and so that we would have a vehicle to do some sight seeing.
Trust me brother I have been through countless of gfs that did not do **** or understand why we work on cars, and why we put so much time and money towards the build.
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From: Pottsville-PA
Thread Starter
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From: Pottsville-PA
Week 1 - Continued
Like I previously mentioned I removed the ETS turbo polished intercooler pipes, the ARC Super Induction Box, and the Battery. The next project I decided to to was to remove the factory fuel rail and injectors. The next few pictures will show more in detail.
The first item you need to purchase before starting this project is a pair of hose clamps. I bought the hose clamps pictures above from Sears. Once I removed the fuel line from the drivers side of the vehicle I placed a bolt in the fuel lines hole as a safety. As fire fighters we usually carry golf tees for this but the bolt worked out nicely. If you notice on the left side of the picture there is a binder. Before starting this project I searched the forum for how to's and printed everyone out pretaining to this build. Also I have a complete tear down which can be found online to keep everything organized.

Close up picture of the safety bolt plug and hose clamps.

The next thing I did was I removed the low pressure end of the fuel rail. It is held on by two philips/bolts. Notice I placed the blue shop towel underneath the fuel rail. You will get a small spill of fuel but nothing to get excited about. Just a general rule of thumb anytime you are dealing with any fluids you are going to spill something. So take some time and place a rag, old t-shirt or whatever to catch the fluid.

Angela is show in this picture removing the bolts from the fuel pressure regulator side. This is where small hands comes in handy
Another great tool for this and any other hard to reach bolt is a swivel adaptor for your rachet wrench.

Fuel Pressure Regulator with bolts removed. With both ends of the fuel rail now free I moved onto removing the bolts in the center of the rail. There are plastic spacers that seperate the intake manifold and the fuel rail. Pay clost attention to these spacers. They are groved to fit but they can fall down into your engine comparment.

Once the bolts are removed simply push up on the fuel rail. I left the injectors connected to the wiring harness. The wiring harnesses do not simply pull off by squeezing. There is a thin metal U bracket that holds the sensor in place. A flat head screw driver was used to pry the bracket off.

Remember to label each sensor with the corresponding injector number. Repeat the bracket removal for all four injectors and you are done. The last picture is a comparison on the stock fuel rail and the Perrin Fuel Rail. After removing the stock rail I called it a night and cleaned up.

Stay tuned for more coverage and updates............
Like I previously mentioned I removed the ETS turbo polished intercooler pipes, the ARC Super Induction Box, and the Battery. The next project I decided to to was to remove the factory fuel rail and injectors. The next few pictures will show more in detail.
The first item you need to purchase before starting this project is a pair of hose clamps. I bought the hose clamps pictures above from Sears. Once I removed the fuel line from the drivers side of the vehicle I placed a bolt in the fuel lines hole as a safety. As fire fighters we usually carry golf tees for this but the bolt worked out nicely. If you notice on the left side of the picture there is a binder. Before starting this project I searched the forum for how to's and printed everyone out pretaining to this build. Also I have a complete tear down which can be found online to keep everything organized.

Close up picture of the safety bolt plug and hose clamps.

The next thing I did was I removed the low pressure end of the fuel rail. It is held on by two philips/bolts. Notice I placed the blue shop towel underneath the fuel rail. You will get a small spill of fuel but nothing to get excited about. Just a general rule of thumb anytime you are dealing with any fluids you are going to spill something. So take some time and place a rag, old t-shirt or whatever to catch the fluid.

Angela is show in this picture removing the bolts from the fuel pressure regulator side. This is where small hands comes in handy
Another great tool for this and any other hard to reach bolt is a swivel adaptor for your rachet wrench.
Fuel Pressure Regulator with bolts removed. With both ends of the fuel rail now free I moved onto removing the bolts in the center of the rail. There are plastic spacers that seperate the intake manifold and the fuel rail. Pay clost attention to these spacers. They are groved to fit but they can fall down into your engine comparment.

Once the bolts are removed simply push up on the fuel rail. I left the injectors connected to the wiring harness. The wiring harnesses do not simply pull off by squeezing. There is a thin metal U bracket that holds the sensor in place. A flat head screw driver was used to pry the bracket off.

Remember to label each sensor with the corresponding injector number. Repeat the bracket removal for all four injectors and you are done. The last picture is a comparison on the stock fuel rail and the Perrin Fuel Rail. After removing the stock rail I called it a night and cleaned up.

Stay tuned for more coverage and updates............
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From: Pottsville-PA
Yea I thought about the 3.5 but I did want to keep my stock battery. I have a small clean system under 1000 watts and love music. Im going for a complete car as a whole so for now the system stays. But you are right the 3.5 is going to be insane. Did you by any chance see the write up in D-Sport about our Intake Manifolds?
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No I missed that any links? That 3 in will be fine. Im going bigger turbo but havent made the decision on which yet. Leaning toword the 58 Trim or 3076R
Ill talk with Tom and figure out whats best for me when the money is in the pocket.
Again sweet *** car man. Shes gonna be a beast. Love that Cusco Beam too
Ill talk with Tom and figure out whats best for me when the money is in the pocket.
Again sweet *** car man. Shes gonna be a beast. Love that Cusco Beam too
nice work!! Ive never really seen a mechanics pit other than at like jiffy lube.. That would be a death sentence for me as i have already fallen face 1st down into our dyno pit while i was carrying something.. LOL
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From: Pottsville-PA
No I missed that any links? That 3 in will be fine. Im going bigger turbo but havent made the decision on which yet. Leaning toword the 58 Trim or 3076R
Ill talk with Tom and figure out whats best for me when the money is in the pocket.
Again sweet *** car man. Shes gonna be a beast. Love that Cusco Beam too
Ill talk with Tom and figure out whats best for me when the money is in the pocket.
Again sweet *** car man. Shes gonna be a beast. Love that Cusco Beam too
The reason I went with ETS is that you can select a turbo now and always upgrade to a larger turbo later. Everything stays the same in the kit that I got. I was quoted by Tom at 550 whp for the 58 trim bb. If I was you I would go with the ETS 58 trim bb because by then you will have a by bolt process of installing it.






