Engine Build 2008 by Mick with over 100 Photos
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From: Pottsville-PA
I picked up a set of VOLK CE28 TIME ATTACK over the weekend.... The size is 18" x 9.5" with a 34 offset. Thanks a lot to Joe (spoolking) who sold me the wheels. The wheels with tires were in immaculate condition and fit great
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Week 2 Continued.... Stock Turbo Removal
The first step I did was I removed my Cusco heat shield. Be careful when removing the bolts. I did not know that you can shear a bolt by removing the bolt. I will now have to remove the exhaust manifold from the turbo. This step does not need to be done if you remove the bolts correctly.

After the heat shield was removed I removed the bolts of the exhaust manifold. I started on the outside and worked towards the center. I could not find the correct socket for the inner bolts so I decided to move onto removing the EGT probe and exhaust manifold/turbo bolts.

This picture below shows the spot where I found it was best to mount the EGT probe. Its the second one from the left.

This shot is for ETS to make sure that they tap the same size hole for my new exhaust manifold.

Below is a close up shot of the EGT probe.

This next picture is out of order. I wanted to illustrate what I had to come up with in order to break loose the nut for the exhaust manifold.


Here is where I ran into another shear bolt problem. I have no idea why but mitsubishi instead of using bolts used studs for the front portion of the exhaust manifold/turbo. I sheared off the bolt on the left side while trying to remove the nut. Taking my own advice I decided to step back and take a break. I had to go to Lowes for the missing socket.

While I was at Lowes I realized that I made a huge error, and figured out why I was shearing bolts. I was not using any penetrating breaking bond spray. I picked up a can of PB and went back to my garage.

Next I sprayed the remaining exhaust manifold nuts and let them sit. While I was waiting for the spray to soak in I removed the turbo oil feed line from the block. Like always I labeled each hose, component, etc. that I removed.

After waiting about 5 minutes and having the right socket/tool to complete the job I moved onto removing the inside nuts on the exhaust manifold.

Heres a trick/tip I was taught a long time ago. Think before you remove a bolt/nut on where it is going to go. The area below the exhaust manifold is not a straight shot to the ground. Place tape with a zip lock bag under the nut and you will never loose one again.

Next I removed the lower heat shield of the turbo assembly.

Then I removed the intake hose of the turbo.

Next I removed the turbo water feed connection.

The next connection I removed was the turbo oil return pipe. This was a tricky and tight spot to get to. I chose the upper connection because I did not want to break the seat on the oil pan. Even though I know the ETS turbo kit will come with a diferent connection I was running out of buckets lol.



There is one more water pipe that needs to be removed and that is the water return pipe as shown removed below in the picture.

To the left of the exhaust manifold/turbo is a heat shield that I removed. I only could get to one of the bolts but that was alright. I tried to remove the turbo but for some reason it was catching on this heat shield. I bent the heat shield slightly to remove the turbo.

To remove the turbo assembly I first pulled back slightly to clear the bolts of the exhaust manifold and once cleared pulled straight up. It wasn't that heavy

Here is a shot of the turbo out of the car. Stay tuned for more......
The first step I did was I removed my Cusco heat shield. Be careful when removing the bolts. I did not know that you can shear a bolt by removing the bolt. I will now have to remove the exhaust manifold from the turbo. This step does not need to be done if you remove the bolts correctly.

After the heat shield was removed I removed the bolts of the exhaust manifold. I started on the outside and worked towards the center. I could not find the correct socket for the inner bolts so I decided to move onto removing the EGT probe and exhaust manifold/turbo bolts.

This picture below shows the spot where I found it was best to mount the EGT probe. Its the second one from the left.

This shot is for ETS to make sure that they tap the same size hole for my new exhaust manifold.

Below is a close up shot of the EGT probe.

This next picture is out of order. I wanted to illustrate what I had to come up with in order to break loose the nut for the exhaust manifold.


Here is where I ran into another shear bolt problem. I have no idea why but mitsubishi instead of using bolts used studs for the front portion of the exhaust manifold/turbo. I sheared off the bolt on the left side while trying to remove the nut. Taking my own advice I decided to step back and take a break. I had to go to Lowes for the missing socket.

While I was at Lowes I realized that I made a huge error, and figured out why I was shearing bolts. I was not using any penetrating breaking bond spray. I picked up a can of PB and went back to my garage.

Next I sprayed the remaining exhaust manifold nuts and let them sit. While I was waiting for the spray to soak in I removed the turbo oil feed line from the block. Like always I labeled each hose, component, etc. that I removed.

After waiting about 5 minutes and having the right socket/tool to complete the job I moved onto removing the inside nuts on the exhaust manifold.

Heres a trick/tip I was taught a long time ago. Think before you remove a bolt/nut on where it is going to go. The area below the exhaust manifold is not a straight shot to the ground. Place tape with a zip lock bag under the nut and you will never loose one again.


Next I removed the lower heat shield of the turbo assembly.

Then I removed the intake hose of the turbo.

Next I removed the turbo water feed connection.

The next connection I removed was the turbo oil return pipe. This was a tricky and tight spot to get to. I chose the upper connection because I did not want to break the seat on the oil pan. Even though I know the ETS turbo kit will come with a diferent connection I was running out of buckets lol.



There is one more water pipe that needs to be removed and that is the water return pipe as shown removed below in the picture.

To the left of the exhaust manifold/turbo is a heat shield that I removed. I only could get to one of the bolts but that was alright. I tried to remove the turbo but for some reason it was catching on this heat shield. I bent the heat shield slightly to remove the turbo.

To remove the turbo assembly I first pulled back slightly to clear the bolts of the exhaust manifold and once cleared pulled straight up. It wasn't that heavy

Here is a shot of the turbo out of the car. Stay tuned for more......
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From: Pottsville-PA
I talked to Tom from ETS at the begining of the week and he said it will probably be another week until it ships out. I can't wait.. I have about 15 more pictures to post up and then I am up to date with my project. No additional work has been done because I am waiting for the turbo kit.
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From: Pottsville-PA
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
From: Pottsville-PA
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
From: Pottsville-PA
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
From: Pottsville-PA
Sorry I haven't been updating recently but I am on military orders down in DC. I will be back home in about a week. If I have some free time I will post some more pictures that I have already uploaded.
Nice build but I would have recommended NOT removing the spark plugs when removing the valve cover, they protect against stuff falling into the cylinders.
Also i am not quite sure why you were trying to disconnect the exhaust mani from the turbo if you were removing everything. And don't feel bad about the sheared nut or bolt on that part, i have removed a few and it is pretty much a guaranty that one of the 2 nuts/bolts will break or cross thread. Thank god it is all cast iron and can be drilled/tapped.
Good luck with the rest of the build!
Also i am not quite sure why you were trying to disconnect the exhaust mani from the turbo if you were removing everything. And don't feel bad about the sheared nut or bolt on that part, i have removed a few and it is pretty much a guaranty that one of the 2 nuts/bolts will break or cross thread. Thank god it is all cast iron and can be drilled/tapped.
Good luck with the rest of the build!
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From: Pottsville-PA
Nice build but I would have recommended NOT removing the spark plugs when removing the valve cover, they protect against stuff falling into the cylinders.
Also i am not quite sure why you were trying to disconnect the exhaust mani from the turbo if you were removing everything. And don't feel bad about the sheared nut or bolt on that part, i have removed a few and it is pretty much a guaranty that one of the 2 nuts/bolts will break or cross thread. Thank god it is all cast iron and can be drilled/tapped.
Good luck with the rest of the build!
Also i am not quite sure why you were trying to disconnect the exhaust mani from the turbo if you were removing everything. And don't feel bad about the sheared nut or bolt on that part, i have removed a few and it is pretty much a guaranty that one of the 2 nuts/bolts will break or cross thread. Thank god it is all cast iron and can be drilled/tapped.
Good luck with the rest of the build!


