Paint issues... AGAIN
Just a quick note about the GT-R's paint... Seems Nissan has that covered too. I'm eager to see if it lives up to its printed specs. I'm skeptical though.
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Paint
The new Nissan GT-R achieves the world's best paint performance, in terms of resistance to chipping and scratches. It comes with a lustrous paint sheen when new - partly through the application of a 'double clear coat' - and maintains this finish due to its uniquely tough paint. Tests have shown that the Nissan GT-R continues to have a blemish-free luster long after rival paints are peppered with stone chips and small abrasions.
This paint strength is especially important on a premium vehicle capable of such high speeds.
A special new color, ultimate metal silver, is also available on the Nissan GT-R. All GT-Rs get an electrodeposition first coat, which bonds especially well to the metal, a special anti-chipping coat, primer, color bases and then clear coats, both hand polished by craftsmen to achieve a perfect paint finish.
--------------
Paint
The new Nissan GT-R achieves the world's best paint performance, in terms of resistance to chipping and scratches. It comes with a lustrous paint sheen when new - partly through the application of a 'double clear coat' - and maintains this finish due to its uniquely tough paint. Tests have shown that the Nissan GT-R continues to have a blemish-free luster long after rival paints are peppered with stone chips and small abrasions.
This paint strength is especially important on a premium vehicle capable of such high speeds.
A special new color, ultimate metal silver, is also available on the Nissan GT-R. All GT-Rs get an electrodeposition first coat, which bonds especially well to the metal, a special anti-chipping coat, primer, color bases and then clear coats, both hand polished by craftsmen to achieve a perfect paint finish.
Evolving Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 257
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From: Igloo
FYI: Many auto makers, including the luxury market (such as Volvo), use single stage paint for non-metallic paint.
Touch-ups are much easier on single stage; but more frequent waxing is necessary.
Touch-ups are much easier on single stage; but more frequent waxing is necessary.
1. When I ordered the paint from paint scratch.com, I gave them the VIN and they sent me both the base and clear coat... ok they could be wrong BUT...
2. I fixed a few of the chips already and when I buffed it with some fine cut cleaner, I saw NO red on the pad at all.
I was thinking that maybe they did single stage with the earlier RS models, but mine is an 06 and I think it is in fact clear coated, could be wrong though.
I had a look at your past threads. If you're going to keep using an orbital buffer, I strongly suggest doing two things: 1. get a random-orbital machine and learn about the process, the correct products to use and their application, 2. practice using your current orbital on something other than a red Evo. Here's a site with excellent info:
http://autopia.org/forum/
As I mentioned in another post, I had a red Evo, too. The paint is delicate and it needs to be maintained. Mine was flawless and I hardly slow down for anything. It wasn't due to some factory anomaly; the paint looked great, because its owner took the time and the effort to make it look that way.
to end all problem here we all know that there clearcoat is like s*** so instead of complain about go to a local paint shop buy the best clearcoat out there for your car like bmw clearcoat mecedes benz high end paint it will cost you about 300 to 500 dollar a gallon but that will be enought to paint you car lke 3 times take it to a good body shop and have them put on a new clear that what im about to do i rather paid 800 dollar to get my car clearcoat over cause they put cheap clear coat on the car then to have my car start to fade a peel cause i didnt take that extra step
You're not wrong; red IXs have a clear coat. Have a look in your trunk and you can see the difference between the non-clear coated red paint and the exterior finish.
I had a look at your past threads. If you're going to keep using an orbital buffer, I strongly suggest doing two things: 1. get a random-orbital machine and learn about the process, the correct products to use and their application, 2. practice using your current orbital on something other than a red Evo. Here's a site with excellent info:
http://autopia.org/forum/
As I mentioned in another post, I had a red Evo, too. The paint is delicate and it needs to be maintained. Mine was flawless and I hardly slow down for anything. It wasn't due to some factory anomaly; the paint looked great, because its owner took the time and the effort to make it look that way.
I had a look at your past threads. If you're going to keep using an orbital buffer, I strongly suggest doing two things: 1. get a random-orbital machine and learn about the process, the correct products to use and their application, 2. practice using your current orbital on something other than a red Evo. Here's a site with excellent info:
http://autopia.org/forum/
As I mentioned in another post, I had a red Evo, too. The paint is delicate and it needs to be maintained. Mine was flawless and I hardly slow down for anything. It wasn't due to some factory anomaly; the paint looked great, because its owner took the time and the effort to make it look that way.
I am going to listen to what mitsubishi has to say about the paint and if they aren't willing to help with it and either put another coat of clear on it or something, then you all will be seeing a nice RS for sale on here with about 3k on it, and i'll buy something that has a better reputation. I'd hate to have to sell it and go the STI, R32, even the GT-R, but as I said, i'm willing to go into debt to have a car that does all I want it to.
The paint on these cars is shoddy. I have stress marks in the paint from where the chassis twists under hard cornering. I thought they were scratches and then buffed away pretty well, but they came back in the same spot and were clearly splitting from the base.
Actually I am going to edit this because I know there is a lot that goes into this car and that was sort of a stupid statement I made... I do however feel that Mitsubishi should address their paint issue. The rust under the wings on the VIII's and then easy chipping on all of them is just unacceptable.
Last edited by Methodical4u; Jun 12, 2008 at 12:59 PM.
UPDATE:
Took the car over to the dealership and they claim that the paint has normal wear and tear for a 2 year old car... I guess they didn't look at the odometer that reads 2300 miles. The steering wheel was seperating on one side and is going to be replaced and the plastic piece on the shifter came out and is going to get fixed. I am very dissapointed in Mitsubishi and will be emailing them and then likely putting the car up for sale and then wait for either the 370Z to come out or take the bigger payment and buy a GT-R.
Took the car over to the dealership and they claim that the paint has normal wear and tear for a 2 year old car... I guess they didn't look at the odometer that reads 2300 miles. The steering wheel was seperating on one side and is going to be replaced and the plastic piece on the shifter came out and is going to get fixed. I am very dissapointed in Mitsubishi and will be emailing them and then likely putting the car up for sale and then wait for either the 370Z to come out or take the bigger payment and buy a GT-R.
I have called Mitsubishi directly and they are opening a case on it and are having someone contact me about this issue over the next 24 hours... they seem to be willing to do something about the problem which is at least decent.
Finally talked to them again... they said the same thing, that stone chips aren't covered under warranty, so the car will be going up for sale. I'm not going to put up with a car company who doesn't do more for their customers.
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